muddyplugger

I have done something similar too, although mines a TD5, CB attached to fuse cover. It only catches me if I'm wearing wellies!

I use 15mm baynet 30 white led's for stop/tail on the defender. They were straight replacement (quite tight mind you) and are noticably brighter even through the bog standard lenses. These ones have LED's to the side so I assume that the military style lens would negate that effect. ultraleds - stop/tail led you could replace your military lenses with the 'new style' defender fog lamp/NAS spec lights?

And he drinks my beer!! Good job he's a decent bloke!

The ones on my DII slowed too, first speed almost stopped. I removed most of the front of the car and lubed the 'scissor' mechanism, hey presto, back to normal! I dont quite know how to access the linkage on Disco I, but I recon that should be the first call.

That is all good info thanks I dont know where I suspected that Aluminium was a poor ground plane, old wives tale? I believe then that it is the lead/connection, as judging by the rest of the vehicle wiring its bound to be bodged! (but I'll get the meter out and check). Cheers, Anth.

I found an existing CB mount and lead in the Defender (previous owner fitted I presume), so I assumed all would be well when I connect the rig to one end and my new aerial to the other! (first mistake I hear you say). The trouble is I cannot get anywhere near a decent SWR reading, best is well over into the red +5 or so. The aerial is mounted on the wing, which being aluminium is a poor ground plane, so I ran a wire from the base to a decent earth but no change! My first thoughts are just to buy a new lead/mount and replace the lot, but has anyone experience of best postion on the Defender to mount it? Does it matter?

Oh no, not more aggro Cracking bit of engineering by the way Nige! I'm always surprised at how professional these home made things look, makes me quite jealous that I am lacking those skills and the workshop space!

I can picture it now! Wearing a full face crash helmet might work when raining, and certainly you may find the que shortens fast as you lurk behind people at the ATM wearing one! Cheered me up did that post!

Well, thats that knackered then!

Yeh, I agree between 7k (dealer) and 5K (private) for a 300tdi. But I recon a good 300tdi ES should sell for 6k privately. I think freeagent got a bit of a bargin there! My uncle has just sold his 1999 (basic 'entry' model) 300tdi and they offered him 5k trade in so, stick a bit on that for their mark up, a few hundred or so for ES and I think go hunting with 6k in your pocket, and spend the change on beer!!!!

My mum had one of these a few years ago (02 plate), and IIRC it had 18" alloys, the 6 speaker ICE, climate control, plastic wheel arch extensions, and......erm.....what else?.....erm.....roof rails........ but I dont remember if there was much else 'special edition' to it apart from the badge. I like the oslo blue colour, not everyone's taste, but I like it! 15K on the clock is quite remarkable! Lets just hope its because it didn't spend 3 years in Land Rovers workshops!!! Hope all goes well with the purchase and lets hope you can wangle a few quid off as well.

Have you seen the size of the tiger balm that he takes on holiday with him though!

To make the pill easier to swallow, if you have your TV and phone with them, ring them up and tell them you qualify for a discount as you have other services with them! I did my bill came down from £24 to £18 (give or take a quid, i cant remember) for the same service, and they upped it to 2Mb. They dont advertise the fact but its a legit discount they offer. [\offtopicmodeoff]

My Sankey doesn't have a jocky wheel! It has a huge swing down adjustable leg. I don't even like using the handbrake, damn thing welds the drums tight if you leave it for a few months! I also fancied using the NATO hitch for recovery too, but I don't want to put it on a drop plate for the obvious plough effect!

This is great advice guys, I think I may squeeze the NATO hitch on the crossmember - as I will only use the trailer once a year or so, I might put up with broken knuckes, scraped skin and the rest of the aggro that goes along with the door. Thanks for the offer of the hitch diesel_jim and now I have seen what you mean I do believe I have something similar that I removed from the vehicle when I bought it!!!! (albeit on an adjustable screw tow plate thing) I'll check it out. I'll let you know if I'm stuck, nice offer thank you. Ill post up a pic when its done! (I hope)

Not really bothered about the load, as will never be much, my concern is of the physical size of the ring fitting the hitch. However, you raise a valid point! Can one recover a vehicle with such a hitch safely??

Does anyone tow a Military Sanky using a 'dixon type' pin hitch? My reason for asking is that the NATO hitch I have is not going to fit on the crossmember of the defender, due to the size of the tyre on the rear door! (235/85x16) I am hoping I can attach a pin type hitch, as its somewhat shallower, but the Sanky's ring is quite thick and I wonder if it will fit a standard pin hitch/dixon type hitch? Experience welcomed!!

Happy birthday! You two certainly beat my Dads 60th birthday cake! He's bought a Range Rover recently so next year might be different!!!

I never really knew why my Defender had grab handles on the rear crossmember, but I eventually found a use for them!!! Perfect steps out of my Pit. No more scrabbling out like a land locked dying fish!!! Has anyone else used a Landy part for another (useful) use???

Procedure: 1. Switch off the unit. 2. Turn it on while pushing the “AM/FM” e “SCAN” buttons at the same time. 3. Rotate the “CHANNEL” knob and select the desired frequency band (see the chart here below). 4. To stop your selection, press the “AM/FM” button. NOTE1: In the UK frequency band, you can select directly the EC band by pushing the “AM/FM” button for 2 seconds. NOTE2: If you select a frequency band which operates in FM mode only, the “AM/FM” control enables the LCR function (Last Channel Recall). info from http://www.cte.it/home_eng.asp it worked for my rig, but ? is the Excel multi different then???? This is the 'Plus' Multi from their web site: The info/downloads are on the above link, hope it helps.

Well its certainly not me!! We have to wear blue and white.

The last time I went down that track was 2004 and it had been resurfaced, enough to get an F1 car down!! I have been caving down 'crackpot' and regulary used to park along the byway in a Ford escort. No 100ft drop so close to the road that I can remember, otherwise I'd have been absailing off it! The house must have changed hands as I remember the lady was 'getting on a bit' as we always let them know we were along their land/road, and left a 'donation' to 'Cave Rescue'. Just incase! New occupants getting a little irritated perhaps?

It definatley needs a clout with a hammer now! That will/may free the mechanism to engage. The poor starter motor on my old series III had some many dents in the side I wondered how it continued for so many years!!

Answering the above question reagrds the sender/fuel pump unit, yes, they are expensive £220ish give or take a tenner, You do have to take the tank out and the 'fuel pump' part is a common fault of packing up. Symptoms are gradual loss of power over a few miles, as the unit slowly dies then will blow a fuse as it gets hot and siezes! (My Disco did this 2 weeks ago - Same unit) Regards your original problem, I dont know, sorry! But there are many electrical whizz's on here that will no doubt know which earth to clean up! Good Luck!!

The ones I know, and I assume its a Disco 1, all rattle. I therefore assume its 'common' but normal, I'm not sure.