Landowner

Thanks very much, Just need turbo inlet size now so as can order hose, need some for 200 and some for 300

Don't know which reverse light switch to buy for my Disco R380 gearbox, its from a 300tdi Disco of about 1995 Not the clearest of pictures sorry

Only took you two months :)

Very technical, thank you If I were wanting axle articulation I would go for the softest standard springs I could get, the ones I have are for towing with a lot of weight on the towbar. getting very informative this thread so thanks to everyone for that Pete

Sounds like abs kicking in (if you have it fitted) can feel like brake pedal kicking back

Have to see when the body goes on then, Defender is about a half ton lighter than Discovery so the Disco springs may not suit. (fronts are Disco and have been great ) I am using them hopefully to stop the back end sagging when towing car trailer, time will tell

Give us a try for gaskets, we post worldwide, probably UPS to Canada, worth an email but we are closed until Tues due to the holidays http://www.lymmengineparts.co.uk/

What I don't understand is ..... If when the nearer spaced coils are touching they do nothing, what is the point of having them? I will have a normal spring when this happens. If the whole spring compresses at the same rate then what is the point of having some coils closer together? Where does the dual rate come in if the closer coils sit on each other, they might as well not be there? The way I thought they worked was that under part load they act as softer spring but when under heavy load they act as heavy duty. This cannot happen if the spring compresses at the same rate throughout, some part of it will have to be softer, (maybe the tighter coils) then when heavy load is introduced the tight coils sit on each other and the other (stiffer) part acts as the heavy duty bit. Going out for a pint and to think about this, no use quoting equations to me, I don't understand the maths, just how they work in practice

Have had a read up on springs and am now totally confused. Progressive rate springs, they say, are softer where the coils are close together. As the closer (softer coils) are compressed, then the wider spaced coils will come closer together and stiffen up. So why are the close together coils soft but the wider spaced coils harder when close together ?? If the close together coils were soft then they would close together easily leaving just the wide spaced coils as a spring. Standard springs are wide spaced and become harder when compressed Whats the point of the close together coils if they do nothing but close together when weight is added?? I always thought that the spaced coils compressed at a faster rate than the close together ones, the close together ones acting as the harder spring. Need input .....

Better picture of the springs. I pulled the chassis down towards the axle today to compress the rear spring using a ratchet strap, the top half of the spring was compressing faster than the coils at the bottom, I will do it again and measure the two halves of the spring to show how much each has compressed under load when I get time. If what you are saying is correct then when I add the body weight the coils will be almost touching at the bottom as the chassis will go down a fair few inches, that will leave me with just the top bit as a spring which would defeat the object of a progressive spring.I would be left with just the soft bit

Right.... Just been out and bounced on the chassis at the back, The tighter coils at the bottom did not move at all, the top part which has wider gaps compressed as I bounced

I used to stand my mother on my toolbox and the spin her round and shove her in, that was two years ago though, she's 94 now and cant do it anymore

Only the front ones are constant rate, I'll get a better picture of rears tomorrow And I thought that it was stiffer because of the angle that the coils were to the horizontal and also the way in which it was tempered, the coils hadn't been touching when they were on the disco, there was no sigh of that at all even after heavy towing, the paint was still intact on the springs

Oil

I suppose the softer part of the spring will compress first which ever way up it is. I only want to know which way up from the factory really as they were tight coils to the top on the Disco I have put them tight coils to the bottom seeing as everything else on the 90 is not quite as it should be, give the rivet counters something to talk about :) One is the front and cant see the back properly but never mind,

My 2.5 n/a started no problem after a failed lift pump was changed at the roadside (nicked one off the Disco I had on the trailer) pumped fuel up and cracked injector pipes off and retightened one at a time as diesel spat out, she picked up and ran no problem, Towed the disco on trailer at 60 effortlessly with a tailwind

Or you may have knocked wire off the stop valve when bleeding.

Do they have primary and secondary? I always thought that they were dual circuit, meaning that it doesn't matter which is connected to which, when one fails then the other does the job. There are two separate chambers in the caliper and each supplies two of the pistons (one either side) so it wont matter which port the pipes are connected to, both will be the same capacity and operate in case (or in spite of) of a failure in the other

Well... I fitted them with the tighter coils at the bottom, tight fit for heavy duty retainers but sorted ok. They were the other way up on the Disco with tighter coils at the top, dont know it that is standard fitment, perhaps someone could have a look at theirs for me. they look ok anyway

Dont think he has taken any, he's not that good with computers or cameras or phones for that matter. I'll try and get some pics of it before he puts the body on, think its just chassis and bulkhead at the moment

Well, pleased to say that he managed to sell it today, some cash towards his '58 series 2 with series one bits. Was one of the first series two's, (have I got this right?) and the chassis is not the same as later series twos, also has a very early chassis number (single figures) so well worth restoring, must say he has made a lovely job

I've just done my four bolt box and it was three and a half turns lock to lock. I turned it half way between this and fitted the drop arm in the straight ahead position, I think it will only go on in one position but not sure.

Two hammers might help loosen it, hit two sides of the arm sym, simal, sumil,..... at the same time then try the chisel and fbh..

My mate has three land rovers, two of them are projects. He stripped both down completely, one is a 1958 88 and the other is a 1960 88 He stripped all the paint and gunge off both and is now almost finished completing the '58, its taken him two years so far, He has decided that the other one will never get done and is going to sell it. Question is will any one buy a stripped 88 or is it better to part build it? Defeats the object of getting it out of the way if it has to be built though, needs to go soon as he is loosing his storage. Any input appreciated Thanks

I have just cleaned off the front springs that I took off my 1994 Disco 200tdi. One has yellow/white markings One has red/white/blue markings These look like factory markings but I can only find reference to the yellow/white marks in the colour charts. Any one know why I had two different colour codes on the front, It sat level and drove normally Thanks