Landowner

Good idea, might run a couple of additional heavy duty wires through then I can run off a junction box if needed

Got some of the split stuff, bought it for the kit car, thought rigid pipe would clip neater, got to have a look at routing first though

Decided to run the loom though a length of plastic electrical conduit and clip it up under the tub, cant see any reason for it to go near the chassis really as it starts in the bulkhead and goes to rear lights. Just need to find some black pipe now, got loads of white

I have seen that for sale before, a few years ago on ebay if I remember correct

Thanks I only asked so as I don't get slated for fitting them wrong way up when I put photos of built up chassis on

My old Disco rear springs are thicker at one end with tighter coils. I am going to fit them to my 90 but wondered if it made any difference which way up they are fitted. Tighter coils to top when they came off

I went down to my local hardware / tool shop (man in a brown coat with pencil behind his ear) and bought 40 M8 nuts and bolts to start rebuilding my chassis. I didn't use copperslip or grease when I put them on , will I get corrosion if I don't use a barrier of some sort between galv and mild steel washers?

Thanks for the information. I will be using the Disco 1 bias valve so as the system is the same as the Disco as i will have back disc axle. Should work ok, the ball valve is similar to the very early minis, they could be doctored and made adjustable quite easily

This is the reducer/ compensator / bias valve on my 1990 Land Rover 90

Picking new chassis up tomorrow, not ready for it yet though, old chassis not stripped, engine and boxes still bolted in. Have to get busy, need a few bits and bobs but can get it rolling soon hopefully

Went to help trace a fault on my mates 110 today, he had new galv chassis a few years ago, fixed it but decided to rewire the back end for him when I get time and tidy it up

How about a small LPG tank fitted under the landy with filler etc then you could just fill up at petrol station as per LPG fill up, its about the same price and would be legal and safe and outside the vehicle. Cant see the point in putting bottle outside and piping gas inside as the pipes are the weakest link

Why didn't you put it under the wheelarch forward of the rear wheel, made a box there for a gas bottle (propane) on my old 110 to run the LPG, used bottles off fork trucks with an adaptor as I got them cheap. the bottle only just squeezed in but a small one would go there no problem and it would be ventelated and out side the vehicle

After taking the body off my chassis and looking at the brake piping I see that I have a brake bias valve (defender 90 1990) on the chassis under the servo. It looks like the ball valve type and could be adjusted by levelling it out a bit as it is nose up on the bracket. Could be completely wrong about this of course

Mine is a 1990 but was sort of military spec, it was a very basic vehicle and used as an ambulance from new, it had a military engine number so probably supplied from government type stock. If that makes any sense.... Wires in my chassis loom to rear are rear fog, reverse, left ind, right ind, stop lamps, left side lamp and right side lamp, and two earth wires

My Chassis loom carries only wires for rear lamps

There are only nine in the old loom

Do you think it was rubbed whilst in the chassis or was the damage done installing and removing the loom?

I'm going for some 12/13 core from Vehicle Wiring Products, I have some 7 core to run to the rear lights and some two core depending on what looks neater behind the panels. Tempted to run a heavy wire with it for worklamp to save running it along the roof. I'll use a waterproof trailer junction box to protect the connections, this worked on my car transporter trailer and has been reliable for over five years. Just have to measure it now

As long as they work, no one is going to inspect the cable colours at mot. And it isn't a concourse landy its going to be all blue including engine and gearbox

Found some cable on Vehicle Wiring Products site Would this be ok? 12x21/0.30(1.5mm2)+1x35/0.30(2.5mm2) 13 core (the 2 after mm should be small) Off to watch channel four now

Thanks, got a little tractor with front loader for lifting chassis up, it will just about lift engine on its own but handy and saves a lot of jacking. I'm going to start taking engine out on Monday, new chassis not due for two weeks so plenty of time to get ready

My problem was that I couldn't rely on any help so I had to do it as a one man operation without any lifting gear apart from a jack. I am disabled and cant work for more than an hour or two at a time and if I do any lifting then I have to rest for an hour to get my strength back. As luck would have it, two of my friends called round after all the brain work had been done and operated the jack for me

More pictures of the body coming off

My Defender 90 needed a new chassis so here's how I took the body off, I was on my own so had to devise a way of lifting the chassis off the body. I got all set up during the week, took me about four hours in total to prepare for the lift off, I did get some help on the day but they came more out of interest rather than me needing any help. Not in the order that I did it but the order that I should have done it, First I removed the front wings, bonnet and grill section. and disconnected the wiring from the bulkhead Then I took both front floor sections out as there will be welding done later. Took all the doors off as well for painting and repairs Next is to raise the landy up on ramps or blocks or whatever you have got and chock the wheels Then I set about taking all the bolts out that hold the body to the chassis. There are ten nuts and bolts holding the tub to the rear cross member There are four nuts and bolts (two each side) holding the rear tubular outriggers to the tub There are two nuts and bolts (one of a pair each side) under the seat belt mounts There are two nuts and bolts holding the seat box to the chassis (one each side of the tunnel) There are four large screws nuts (two each side) holding the footwell / pedal box to a bracket on the chassis Last but not least are the two large bolts with nuts that hold the bottom of the bulkhead to the chassis Some I had to grind off but those under the tub were ok after a soak in penetrating oil. I took the fuel filler out of the body, removed the breather pipe and tucked it all underneath Next I disconnected the wiring loom at the back where it come out of the chassis ( it was joined there with connectors ) and pulled the loom out of the chassis from the front where it enters the chassis just under the bulkhead on the drivers side. I then disconnected the handbrake cable at the brake lever end. The wires to the fuel tank were next and I hung them over the steering wheel The clutch fluid pipe disconnects at the resevoir I took the speedo cable off from the speedo end to save crawling under the chassis again Steering column disconnected at the universal joints My wiring engine loom is just one plug so that came off. Moving round to the nearside I took the heater off the bulkhead cause I want to paint but you can just disconnect the heater pipes. The live from the battery needs to come off the starter or you can take it off the battery and feed it through out of the battery box. The battery earth on mine connects to the transfer box so that came off also Make sure its in neutral and remove the gearlever Last I took the two front brake pipes off at the chassis I think that's the lot I then lifted the rear of the landy with a jack and pushed a scaffold pole through above the chassis just behind the rear wheel and rested the pole on two large axle stands Lower the chassis down and the rear tub will part from the chassis leaving the tub on the axle stands The body needs to be about 34 inches from the ground (at the sills) when it is resting on the axle stands depending on what wheels you have on but you will need 34 inches clearance regardless Then I lifted the front axle with the jack and ran a pole though the body at about fuse box height and strapped the bottom corners of the bulkhead to the pole. The pole was supported both sides on trestles and the chassis lowered down away from the body. I then pulled the chassis out from under the body. More pics in next post