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Peaklander

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Everything posted by Peaklander

  1. Peaklander
    So RED90 you are saying that ATF is thinner than MTF94? I was surprised at the MTF94 being watery but the ATF would be even more so? I can say that the first few miles with the MTF94 in the box appear to have made gear changes very easy. When I drained the old oil there was nothing at all on the drain magnet (and the oil had only been in for about 10K miles) so I think the box is fine. I will go to the garage that did the oil change last year and ask what they might have used. It was much thicker than the MTF94. It's strange as they know Land Rovers and drive them themselves.
  2. Peaklander
    First drive for a few weeks. Completed replacement of both sill channels, 2nd row cross member, 2nd row upstand to rear floor. Also changed all oils and filters Had a very small pit in swivel chrome exactly where the seal sits when wheels are straight ahead - filled with devcon and now leak free. Best of all, fitted a new prop (Hardy Sp) to rear and the clunk has gone! At least I think it has but I have realised that I have been protecting it as I change gear and it's really hard to not do that! Just drove 12 miles or so but it feels good!
  3. Peaklander
    Yes - just like in the video. An oily water consistency or I suppose a watery oil MTF thicker than ATF? I was meaning that the new unused MTF94 is thinner than whatever was in my box which I presume was ATF.
  4. Peaklander
    Ha! Ok maybe not quite water but it is thin isn't it. Plenty of links in this forum and others get to the brand I've bought...so it's going in! Thanks for the quick reply.
  5. Peaklander
    HI I've a quick question about my R380 oil. I don't know what was put in my gearbox at the previous oil change but I've decided to change and use MTF94 which I have bought from Smith & Allan. I've drained the oil (what a messy job with the cross member in the way) and just about to squirt the new stuff in but it's the consistency of water (almost). It's so different from what was in so I presume 1) previous is ATF and 2) MTF makes cold gear shifts easier because I've had some difficulty with 2nd on the first selection or two on a cold morning. Is the watery MTF94 OK??!! I've read-up so much before choosing it that I'm sure it must be but a second and third opinion would help. Thanks
  6. Peaklander
    Same as ^^^ above - my vote is for a Sprinter jack. The saddle is good and the two stage is quick. I carry it with me. In the garage I have an ancient farm bottle jack, I think it's 4T. The best bit is the additional screw 'piston' at the top that allows it to be height adjusted before pumping, to increase the lift available.
  7. Peaklander
    Tomorrow I'll top up the engine oil (ran out yesterday during the service). Still got to do gearbox oil, front axle oil and have a look at a leaky swivel seal (only been on a year max), then I'll give it a whirl. If it's still NBG then I'll do the job one more time, check each seal and give them an even harder push. I was a muppet the first time round; don't know what I was thinking of just pushing them down the stem. After all it needed quite a tug to pull off the old ones. Well as I said at the top, all credit for the method goes to Cotleigh Crasher (and for the 5mm metal piece from which I made the tool it's Twiggs at Matlock who sell their metal offcuts which they hold in a box near the office!)
  8. Peaklander
    Yes maybe - but not much oil can get in can it? Maybe a little bit makes a lot of smoke! I'll finish the servicing and then get it moving.
  9. Peaklander
    Thanks for the replies but they might need editing. I've had a bit of a 'mare this afternoon. Having done the job described, I did some oil changes and was then able to start-up. There was a lot of blue smoke - more than before. I let it idle and revved a little once or twice. Even as the water gauge started to move off cold there was still blue smoke. I'm not in a position to drive it at the moment so am relying on idle and a few revs. to check it. So I stopped, had a think and looked at a few pics and youtube videos. Decided that I hadn't pushed the seals right down the stems and onto the head - onto what ever they touch at the bottom that stops them moving up the stem. Removed the rocker cover and I could see at least one seal that was high up. So I repeated the whole job (remembering this time that only two engine positions are needed!). Here's a pic of one of the seals out of position: I pushed it down by hand and tried to feel a "click" as it connected with the head. I did this for all eight seals. Put it all back together - and it's still the same - belching out blue. What have I done wrong?? Wracking my brain but it's not helping. (They are LR Genuine seals which I recently purchased from LR Series). Any help will be very gratefully received!
  10. Peaklander
    Different vehicle but the Sheffield Land Rover dealer gave me my EKA code FOC. I went in with my V5 for the Defender I'd just bought together with some i/d and they printed data for me that included the code.
  11. Peaklander
    Jacked a rear wheel up and it slipped out easily with a little turn of the prop. All's OK there with the cross drilling and nice splines. So I'm closing-up and it's oil change time (that's why I'm underneath on such a nice day - with the hills temporarily white for the second day running).
  12. Peaklander
    Ha! I'm old enough not to be too proud to admit that I totally forgot about the pistons moving in pairs! It was only when I finished that I remembered. Yes I thought the same about the glow plugs. If the engine needs an extra turn or two before it starts without them then there must be a bit of extra fuel in there that isn't required. So I will be looking for a reduction in that puff of black as well as the blue.
  13. Peaklander
    Next, have a bit of a clean-up around the stem and then put a little oil on the new seal. Fit it by using just a little pressure to push it down onto the valve past those collet grooves. As the piston is at TDC, both valves can be serviced in this position. Then re-fit the tool and as it says in all the manuals, refit is the reverse of the above sequence. So squeeze the spring, pull the valve stem up if it has dropped a little (the seal will hold it). Be sure to fully compress the spring and keep the tool centred so that refitting the collets is easy. They fit narrow end to the bottom. Once both valves on that cylinder are done, turn the crank and move to the next one. Just don't forget to get to TDC on that cylinder otherwise the valves will drop when the collets are removed (although i don't actually know how far they will fall or if they would fall too far). Finally replace the rocker shaft and re-set the tappet clearances (0.20mm / 8 thou) when cold. It doesn't take too long to do this whole job, just a few hours - for me the glow-plugs were far more of a problem. Fortunately the new ones screwed-in quite tightly so they seem ok. Not quite ready to move the vehicle yet but hoping for a cleaner exhaust at start-up.
  14. Peaklander
    Now unscrew the tool and remove the valve spring The old stem seal is now visible and can now be removed - this is rather crude as I don't have the correct pliers but they are to be scrapped anyway.
  15. Peaklander
    Screw down onto the tool and watch the valve stem come up through the fork part. As it does just tap down on the valve cap to release pressure on the collets. You do need to ensure that the tool fits around the valve as there needs to be room to completely free-up the two collets. One can get stuck under the tool. Pack some rag around the push rod holes so that nothing can drop down there (collets). Once the collets are properly visible they can be removed - and a magnetic pick-up is really handy at this point. Then remove the tool. (note photos aren't necessarily always of the same valve)
  16. Peaklander
    Next remove the rocker shaft to provide access to the valve springs. Need to remove the little valve top caps (that touch the rocker arm) at this point. Mine were all in perfect condition. The two valves on each cylinder can be changed with the engine in the same position - TDC. So I started with #1 and moved the crank pulley until that cylinder's exhaust valve had just closed and the inlet was just opening. Did this by watching the push rods. This is the end of the exhaust up-stroke with the piston at the top of the cylinder. There's only a mm or two between the piston and the valve at TDC so no worries about the valve dropping when the collets are removed. The 'head-on' tool is used as a lever to press down onto a valve cap. You place it either on one of the three studs that are there for the rocker cover or by using another bit of 8mm stud, you can screw into one of the bolt holes. Which one you use just depends on the valve you are working on. The exact angle of the tool can be adjusted by the amount of packing you use to protect the edge of the head..
  17. Peaklander
    With thanks to Cotleigh Crasher I have changed the stem seals on my 300 TDi, with the head on. This is to try to eliminate the start-up blue smoke that can be a little embarrassing as I leave the drive. I know that this is a relatively simple job but for people like me it feels like a major one - the first time you do something new it always does doesn't it? First job was to fabricate the tool with the help of a vice, cutting disc, and file Removed the air filter, rocker cover, cyclone breather and glow plug cables. Then as I intended to spin the engine using a ratchet in the crank bolt, I thought that removing the glow plugs would help by reducing the compression. #1 was easy to undo but #3 and #4 were very tight. I persevered with penetrating oil and turning slowly to and fro but as I removed the third one I realised that the thread had picked-up on the head as I removed. So I was wishing that I hadn't. I decided to leave #2 well alone. However two of the three that I did remove don't work. (tested by putting battery volts across them). So with three plugs out I could move the engine rather than moving the vehicle in gear.
  18. Peaklander
    Ok thanks - I'll give it a go in the morning. It's a technique thing then!
  19. Peaklander
    Hi all. Working through a number of jobs on my 1996 110CSW 300 TDi with R380 and LT230. One has been to check the transfer box input gear spline wear. I have this box - 22D515445F which being a later box (i presume from the year and the 'F') as far as I know will have the later cross drilling. So I removed the PTO cover (bolts had massive threadloc on them) and rocked to and fro and there's no wear as far as I can tell, between the input shaft and the gear. Whilst I was there I thought that I may as well pull the gear out (just for a closer look at splines etc.) and to confirm the drilling. So I removed the bearing support plate which only needed a little help. Thought that would be all and that the gear would just pull put backwards - but it gets stuck against the other gear (intermediate?). Is this correct and I can't take it out or is there some technique to move the prop or something just to allow the gears to clear? I realise that if the box is the later type with the cross drill then I don't need to inspect further - however I'm underneath and why not?? Thanks
  20. Peaklander
    Sounds as though the OP is happy with the reduced smoke following the timing adjustment. I hope you are right Vulcan as I've made the head-on valve compression tool and probably doing my stem seals tomorrow.
  21. Peaklander
    Reading this with interest and some confusion. Is it blue smoke or black? I ask because I too thought that blue is oil and black is diesel and considering that the adjusted timing would affect combustion then have you reduced black smoke?? I have a puff of black on startup but sometimes a trail of blue for 300m after first start. I'm planning on changing the valve stem seals with the head on, just as a starter. ( using a homebrew tool shown on this forum).
  22. Peaklander
    There's one called Syrus (Visionairegps) which is self monitored and communicates by email and text. You can login anytime to see the vehicle position, heading, speed etc. My family used this feature to follow our progress last spring as we wandered about in Greece and the Balkans. It didn't work in all of them as the sim wouldn't always connect to a mobile network (Albania, Serbia). The alerts are set by you and after an initial purchase the cost is £72 per year (for the sim data). This includes the roaming I mentioned above.
  23. Peaklander
    I've had an email conversation with Sharon Marsland in order to finalise my understanding of the mounts for metal or plastic tanks for my 300TDi 110 CSW. She says that they receive each chassis without any tank mountings. They make the ones for metal and buy-in those for plastic, with an additional £50 if you want plastic on the standard metal for a 300TDi. So I'm going to order a chassis with both fitted too but intend to use a metal tank. I will need to buy a new one as I can't assume my existing one will be good enough to re-use. If at some point in the future I want to go plastic then I guess I can remove the metal tank mounts. I hope that's sensible. 4-6 week lead time and payment in full, one week before the advised delivery date.
  24. Peaklander
    I used Tetrashutz on my 88
  25. Peaklander
    That's very kind of you but I think that what'll happen is that I hold off for now, hope the clunk is caused by the prop., wait 'til I do the chassis and at that point probably the best would be to change the springs to the new type and loose the Boge. Of course if the clunk is still there then it's balls
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