Peaklander

Oh dear that's a bad failure. What make was it? Here's expecting that the TRW quality will be perfect.

If you have a spongy pedal yet aren't seeing bubbles then you're not removing the air which must be in there somewhere. Are you able to localise it to the O/S by clamping the flex pipe there? If you clamp the O/S and get a hard pedal then you know elsewhere is all good and you can focus on the O/S. I don't know if you have drum or disc brakes but you could ensure that the pistons are pushed fully home to reduce or eliminate any air from them and bleed with them like that.

Might be an idea to fill it with some stuff (beer cans would be good), to give it a heat load as a further check at least when running gas.

I have those on my '96 110 SW and they pass through the cross member and fix the tubular side protection that goes up through the tub and along the bodyside, above the wheel arch and then back down at the front. The side facing seat belts are bolted to them. I've hosed down to get a decent view and see that there's a loose fixing on that exhaust hanger! I can't work out if "your bolts" are screwing into a captive nut / thread but I think they may be, as on the inside they look like screw heads too - although inside and outside line-up.

I like threads with a conclusion. Thanks for coming back to tell us.

yes I see that but I'm confused as it also says Iv found a spare earth attached to the dash I think I'll exit stage left and watch from the wings!

OP says it's in the dash - or that's how I read it!

I asked for the same advice a few weeks ago because it really felt solid. Once the boxes were in neutral then it just twisted out - as the men ^^^^ say

Clutching at straws a bit but here is an earth ring terminal behind the clock on my 300TDi if that helps. I can't say where the other end is but you could maybe check if yours reaches that far!

Yes they are the "normal" springs which don't seem to do much. I changed those twice but really they don't put enough outward force. I suppose it's just possible that Gen LR ones are much better springs???

=Jon= I was about to start the very same thread! I have been plagued by rattling pads since I started driving my 110 CSW over a year ago. I had replaced all callipers (AP), the front vented discs (as they were way undersize) and I replaced all pads (Mintex). They were fitted with new rods and springs that the rods pass through. They rattled until I nearly went mad - especially on bumpy roads. I cured the back by using a set of Gen LR springs - the kind that clip around the pad but my fronts have remained as is and nearly drove me nuts again on bumpy roads on a trip we've just completed. As I know the discs and callipers are good on my vehicle, I was going to ask the forum why the pistons wouldn't just hold the pads and stop the rattles? I suppose that they are moving back (too far?) into the calliper and don't touch the pads at all at rest. Is this correct or should they not move back as much? I don't know what determines how the pistons retract but I suppose it's the reverse hydraulic action as the master cylinder piston itself moves back - and that would be determined by the pedal pulling back up. Is it something to do with master cylinder travel? I was wondering about changing that until I read this thread. Otherwise from the previous replies it would really seem that it's down to pad dimension variations and that means some experiments for me too. PS I should say that I don't suffer from fade and the braking effort is good (as far as I know)

Hi, yes it was a really nice area and our first time there. I will go back! I think Lugo has the best Roman walls anywhere - but although we drove past we didn't have time to stop! Sorry!

Hi all We've just got back from another camping road trip in the 1996 110 CSW 300TDi. Covered ~2,500miles without a hitch apart from annoying rattly front pads - more of that in a separate question thread. Spent about 10 nights in the back of the Landy on our (sleeping platform) and the rest in our ground tent and used the ferry from Portsmouth / Bilbao and return. It's not cheap but saves a big drive through France and is very relaxing. I can recommend the northern part of Spain and Portugal - the bit at the extreme west of Spain (Asturias and Galicia) has dozens of beautiful, both wild and sheltered beaches and it's very quiet (in June anyway). The drive along the northern coast back to Bilbao is magnificent and includes the Picos de Europe. Afraid no major off-roading to talk about - just one excursion to find the set of the burial ground in The Good, the Bad and the Ugly which was about 4km on gravel up and over a hill. We gave a couple from the UK a lift to find it (they were each standing on a side step) as the gravel was too dodgy for their road bike.

I have a 110 CSW and both the carpet and aftermarket rubber mats that I use have a rectangular cutout under the throttle pedal.

It's at the very bottom of the bell housing, so just rear of the sump. There's either a small threaded hole or the plug is fitted.

My two penneth: Car insurance is based on 1) you, that is your age, gender, occupation etc.), 2) your address, 3) your claims history, 4) the vehicle, 5) the broker profiles etc. etc. ...my point being that it is very hard to check one person' premium against another person's as those inputs create such variation that one broker (we are talking brokers here not the actual insurance company), will throw out one set of outputs for one combination and a different set for another. So NFU for one person, won't necessarily be comparable with NFU for another, even if some inputs are the same (such as vehicle).

Do you mind if I ask a quick question in the middle of this thread? FF how are you mounting the solar panel? Is it rigid or flexi is it fixed or will you get it out and prop it up somewhere?

Guys I stand corrected then if there are no references. I referred to a question I asked someone years ago ( with good reason to believe the answer) and since then I've always thought that charcoal acted as the adsorber. I'm aware of its properties to adsorbe in other applications such as filters too. Sorry if I've come across as a troll. It was a comment made with the best possible intention and usually I have facts to back up! Now I'm away ( in the 110) on the phone with camp wifi so not much surfing opportunity. Currently using my Waeco cooler which works very well on 12v or mains. Now this uses semiconductor cooling - of that I am sure?

No I meant what I said. As far as I know these have a charcoal stack that's used to capture the refrigerant after it evaporates and therefore creates the cooling. The charcoal is then heated to release it again to allow the cycle to repeat. The fridge is on the cold side and the heat from the regeneration had to be released outside along with that from the fins.

Hi Reb used these many times in caravans and yours should work just as well on mains as it does on 12v or gas, after all each of the three ways are only doing the same thing- regenerating the charcoal.

My solution has been to use Series rubbers and glue them to the bulkhead and tightly closing the vents for a day or two, 'til the glue cures. They've been on for over a year & there's no leak. For me it's a better solution than the flimsy foam.

The cold weather Butane issue can be frustrating if you camp and there's a frost. Then when it's cold at ground level you will find that the Butane struggles to vaporise and you can't make make your tea!

Good news and a good diagnosis Deep. Also thank you for coming back with a conclusion - these really make the threads useful. So often when searching for something on an internet thread it just stops...

At least I'm lucky in that respect as they are only 35mins away so I go to the counter.

This is the weird thing about them. I've challenged them before about gen parts in blue boxes and they insisted that Britpart repack 'other' parts in some cases.