Peaklander

Hi all, I run a 300 TDI 110 CSW 1996 and I wonder if anyone has had a similar problem to this one. I have purchased the Bosch relay (0986335058) to provide an adjustable delay on the intermittent wipe for the front screen. It's a direct plug-in for the existing relay behind the fuse board in the cab and it's something I've known about for a long time and finally I bought one. It's a £40 upgrade so not cheap. It's a straight plug in, nothing else. However I can't get it to work. I can't set the interval and it will do multiple wipes - like two , three or even four. If I replace the old one I get the standard two / three seconds so I don't suspect there's a wiring fault. The supplier very willingly sent a replacement but this behaves in exactly the same way, so it can't be the relay. I have a healthy battery etc (I have a Fluke voltmeter so I know that battery volts are OK). At least 12.4v with no engine and up at 14.1 / 14.2 when charging. I'm beginning to suspect that there must be lower volts at the relay base (than at the battery terminals) and that this might affect the delay circuit (electronics) in the new relay. I hope to get chance to have a poke about with a voltmeter on the relay pins tomorrow. However I just wondered if anyone has any ideas or experience of this? Thank you

You are referring to the steering swivels. These are supposed to be lubricated when the wheels are turned, through the movement of the chrome ball through the seal and into the swivel housing. The housing is filled with axle oil or sometimes a grease (this is often done after overhaul). The seal is located behind the large ring that the chrome moves past and it is often a fail point but in itself isn't a big job to fix. I think that the grease is added sometimes, as it is more forgiving than oil (where leaky seals are involved) and can delay the seal replacement. In good old Blighty if the chrome has been left exposed without being lubricated then it rusts, then gets pitted and that's the leak path. Repair is (in my experience on an 88") quite successful using metal paste (like Devcon) but to do that it's better to remove the ball (and then the task gets bigger). The boot is a gaiter which is an option.

If it's reception problems then check the aerial. It must have a good earth at its base (underside of the metal it is mounted on). Without this it doesn't function as a proper receptor. The semi circular mount must be pulled up tight by the action of the nut on the top side.

I'm in the Hope Valley (so not exactly close but not too far either). I have a 110 CSW 300TDi with R380 and LT230. Everything normal as far as I know :-)

I've used these people in Sheffield. Took my original 88" wheels there and they were blasted and then powder coated to match the limestone. If you are in north Notts then you could well be very close to Sheffield (as you will know of course )

I haven't seen those before. They look very handy.

Yes they can be a real pain in the \*&^. As they are often tarnished, they need to be cleaned-up when you do finally disconnect them. The bullet is easier to clean than the connector; in fact the connector is very hard to clean because it's hard to get anything much inside. For that reason and because they are hard to get apart in the first place, I find it's easier to open-up and therefore destroy the connector, releasing the bullets and then use a new one. Of course that pre-supposes you have a new one available. If there's time to get one then I suggest this route.

Well done for even doing that! Glad it's given you a bit more pedal. I'm postponing lower back surgery by eating painkillers but I think it's inevitable - I know what needs doing. Most work on the Landy results in pain when I straighten!

Hi, maybe a bit to learn myself but isn't the pedal used to disengage the clutch and so the fact that the biting point is very high is an indication of friction plate wear - as engagement is the "rest" position of the hydraulics?

Are you sure? It looks like a bundle in there. You're only looking for double bullets like i said. It might not be obvious that they are the connect-in points.

Oh this modern stuff

I've only experience of my 110 but I'm sure things will be similar. Look in the offside rear of the tub, in front of the rear lamps (remove the little metal cover if it's fitted. In there is a bunch of cables coming up from beneath and as well as connecting into the rear lamps you should see that there are bullet sockets ready and waiting for the towing loom 7 core. There are double bullets which allow two cables to connect to one - and it's the spare ways in these that facilitate the connection. Be careful though as bullets get tarnished and they are hard to clean but it's worth trying to do it. You can get the wire colours and hence the connections (12N standard) to the socket in the Electrical diagram which is in the tech archive on this forum I think. The trailer lamp on the dash will already be wired in to the indicator circuit so no need to worry about that and the flasher relay is big enough to cope with the additional load from the extra turn lamps on the trailer.

Can't help you with an alternative but it does sound confusing about what works and what doesn't, as well as surprising that the garage can't help diagnose deeper before replacing - and what are they going to change? I've no experience of re-programming the AS10 but it might be easier to fix than trying to replace with something different. I thought the immobiliser is a function of the alarm box (the AS10). I wonder why they think those two bits aren't talking? Are they LR specialists? Perhaps you can find another garage who come recommended for Land Rover?

I don't want to over think it, that's for sure. It's just that I'm at a point where things aren't running as well as they might be. There's some lack of power when pulling (no load carried). I need to read around the engine related stuff to be in a better position to know what to do. (turbo hoses, manifold gaskets, turbo bearings, intercooler clean out, lift pump check, injectors...) When I got round to thinking about injectors, I just thought I'd see what the reburb advice might be without knowing if they even need pulling to be able test them. Maybe I should leave them alone. It was the price comparison that got me thinking about what a refurb consists of and that prompted the post. I'm grateful for the replies. Yes I always watch the coolant and in 10 months and 7,000 miles this year, I haven't added a drop . I hadn't planned to do any preventive maintenance on the P gasket but I assume that the minute the coolant level drops then I would start crawling all over the cooling system. As far as ERR3339 prices go I'll just assume it's competitive pricing for new verses slightly high refurb prices at the company I picked in Sheffield.

Hi, several things have cropped up: 1) am I looking at the correct injector? 2) is a new nozzle all that's required? 3) My local diesel specialist said "no thanks". 1) I noticed that the Paddock website has changed search method (for the better) and when I looked again at the cost of 300TDi injectors I was first offered ERR3348 at £159 ea Incl VAT. I had previously seen ERR3339 at £82. Both say 300TDi So I'm slightly confused. ERR3339 is what my parts book says. Is that the one? 2) Les (above) said "TDi injectors are totally mechanical, so wear/parts will be minimal and therefore unpredictable. If they are worn/weak, then usually adjustment is sufficient to correct them. I've never yet had to have injector parts replaced." So is it just the nozzles maybe that need replacing? What is the refurb method? 3) I asked the local company if they had maybe quoted for modern injectors and not the mechanical ones in a 300TDi and again I quoted the price for ERR3339 which is lower than their refurb price and the reply was that they couldn't purchase the nozzles at that price. Well again, the nozzles seem to be <£20. So I'm getting more confused, not less. I think I should take them out, get them tested and if there's any issues that a few more quid can't pay for, I should buy a new set of ERR3339 and they should go in without any set-up. Is that the correct way of thinking? Thanks

Well there's a lot of food for thought there - thanks. I've really no idea what condition to expect mine to be in, so I suppose the starting point is a £5 test (well £20 really). The new prices of Bosch start at £68 and there are one or two others close to that at £75 and £84 (+VAT) I was surprised at the recon price quoted but at least I can make an informed decision once I know if any of them need resetting etc. All I need to do now is get them out. I've seen and read much advice so will be prepared to make a slide hammer if I need to. Won't be for a least a few days though - work and other checks to do first.

That's what I'm thinking but I was sure there's a catch. That's the price on Paddock's website and others are thereabouts.

Hi all, I've started to think about my 300TDi engine and what might need doing after ~110K miles. One item on the list, is to have a look at the injectors. I approached a local diesel overhaul specialist (great testimonials on the www, mainly for pump overhauls) and was advised that testing is £5 each and reconditioning £70 (probably plus VAT). As a cross check (and not having a clue about costs in this area) I looked at the price of new and saw quickly that Bosch injectors are £68+ VAT each. So is this a case that sometimes it's no more expensive to buy new? Or is it that new are nowadays not of the same quality as a set that have probably been on the engine for 19 years? I'm a bit confused and need some direction! Thanks

Yes - it does rely on the signal being restored! It's all a bit of a b&$$^r really isn't it?!

Fair enough but you still pay for the SIM and that's all you need to pay for with some trackers. You don't necessarily have to pay for monitoring as you can do it yourself. The prog series sounds interesting; one that I hadn't noticed. Will take a look.

Some trackers buffer the tracked waypoints when there is no mobile network and then upload all of them when there is a connection. So eventually the route is made available. That does assume that at some point the signal is restored.

People probably not going to say too much about trackers on here as it's obviously a private subject. It's fair to say that there are several, some seem much more expensive than others. The basic operating mode can be something like GPS signal so tracker knows where it is, SIM to transmit emails and text messages and a reasonable amount of configuration so it alerts what you want. Some are live monitored meaning a control room watches over them. Others rely on the user to respond to the alerts. It's fair to say that there is quite a crossover between "theft trackers" and trackers to monitor positions, speeds, stop time etc. of vehicles in normal use. Some (all?) use special sims that are not tied to a specific mobile network and roam constantly, logging onto the most suitable system. These are 'commercial sims' and are the type embedded in lots of non-phone units I think and they aren't necessarily expensive.

That's the fuse for the diagnostic socket fitted at the front of that under-seat area. It's Fuse 22.

As well as the obvious +12v supply to it, there's a special fuse for the unit (Fuse 21, and not in an obvious place). Also the connection to ground (0v) is only made directly in one place, off connector C057 pin 11at the AS10. The others are all through devices that make a ground connection when they change state (like the door switches). So if you are into a bit of wiring checking, you could check (or ask McDs) to be sure that there is +12v at C061pin 25 on the unit and a good 0v connection at C057 pin 11. You can see these two connectors in the Defender_Electrical_Library.pdf file which is easy to find on the www (maybe even this forum). Still not sure if the alarm is setting and resetting and I fully understand that it might be a programming issue - but what would cause that to be needed suddenly? I had to clamber all over mine before I got it working. There again it was a previous owner fridge / bodge and not an overnight failure like yours. It is a late 300 tdi 110 CSW but the wiring for all this stuff is as per 97MY diagrams.

I vote for the X-Eng pedal lock too. It is pricey but once fitted it's so simple to use, there's no excuses and it is used all the time. It's a little bit of a faff as the mat is on top of it but I'm used to folding it over with it. No key to set just to unlock. I also use a diskloc but that is more of a faff. Plus I set the alarm. That's it for visual deterrents.