Peaklander

The aux battery has already been returned to the supplier who agrees that it isn't holding charge now. The starter battery was returned to me after their check, as OK. The Aux is now with Odyssey who apparently destructively test them to establish the cause of the problem. So I'll either be getting a replacement or there'll be nothing! I checked my split charge system before removing the aux and the charging volts with both in circuit are the same as I quoted above. So I guess there's no benefit to me from a 100A unit then, if the volts from this 65A look about OK.

Hi all, 1996 300TDi 110 CSW I've got a problem with batteries not holding-up a decent voltage and I wonder if I'm not charging at a high enough level. When running with little load the voltage sits at 14.3. I monitor this with a little digital meter in the dash. At the the direct from the terminals. I have checked with with my voltmeter too, at the battery. However it drops down to 13.8v with loads like headlamps, HRW and wipers. As a result(?) I never see more than 12.8v after switch off and this is pulled down quite quickly (two days?) by the alarm unit, to 12.2v. It would go lower but I'm normally driving again by then. Is this behaviour normal ? The alternator is an A127 65A, was an exchange unit about twelve months ago. The belt / tensioner is good and doesn't squeak. Done about 9,000 miles but really never charged better than this. The pulley is off the previous unit but not sure if it is the smaller one or not and I don't remember the belt size but I have a spare and I will check the part number. The battery is Odyssey PC1500 so its an AGM type and could be charged at slightly higher volts than a normal lead acid (and when fitted, the aux is the same but its not fitted currently). I'm not happy with the batteries (in spite of the £££) but I wonder if a different alternator (another 65A or maybe a 100A) would be better. I guess the charging volts are the best indicator of this - hence the question. Can anyone help by quoting their normal volts during charging? Thanks Tim

The Tech Archive on this forum has link to a parts catalogue. Have a look in there for the details then cross reference on one of the online shops.

The CV is easy to change another time if you want to spread the work - just drain the swivel lubricant, remove the drive flange and pull the driveshaft out of the axle. If you go for the kit you show, don't forget that you will almost certainly need a new seal retainer and the screws to go with it. I had to use miniature stillsons and heat to slacken mine and they got chewed. You will also need to be ready with a new set of 12 point screws for the connection between the housing and the flange on the axle. I think these have 14mm heads and undoing them is only really possible with a ring spanner - a long one or something else to give you the leverage. They are very tight and a socket won't fit as it is fouled by the flange. As for other work you could be prepared or you could do another time. Discs - look at the surface condition and if they look worn, measure the thickness and compare with the minimums advised in the manual. Callipers - check for leaks and pistons that move. Flexi brake pipes - again check for leaks etc. - but these things can be done separately. It all depends on what time pressure you have / and their respective conditions once you start looking!

What a great trip to do! I've driven a couple of routes in Oz neither in a Land Rover and not much of either trip was off the hard top. First was 20 years ago, from Cairns north to Cooktown then along the battle camp road to Old Laura and then back through Lakefield to the Atherton tablelands. That was in an old Toyota Four runner with a wife and two small kids - camping all the way. Second was a couple of years ago - up to Exmouth from Perth and then back. Little off road but still camping, this time just me and SWMBO. A great trip in a Mitsu. Overlander. What I like about Oz is the (obvious) huge opportunity to go where you want. It's a grey nomads paradise!!

That kit has more parts than you need to fix the leak. The leak is either the seal (in the kit), security of the seal (retainer ring, not in the kit) or the surface condition of the chromed ball over which the seal moves as the steering and suspension cause that movement. To replace the seal you normally remove the swivel / hub assembly as a whole, which requires you to remove it where it joins the axle. You withdraw it along with the drive shaft too. This then gives you access to the seal retaining ring and the seal, both of which can be lifted away from the swivel housing and over the drive shaft. Releasing the small retaining ring screws can be a bit tricky too (damage) and they are better replaced on reassembly, along with a new retaining ring. If the leak is caused by the surface condition of the ball (chrome is pitted) then it is possible to clean this up by using a metal paste like Devcon in the same way that you can fill body dents with filler. If you can't restore the surface finish sufficiently then you would need to replace the ball. The other items in the kit you linked to allow the steering preload to be reset by providing a new bush for the top pin and the shims required to adjust its tightness. Plus it has the bearing for the bottom. So you don't necessarily need to do this if the steering pre-load is OK and there's no play in the pins. Others will be along to add to and correct my basic experience. As for cleaning the pads, I would just replace. They look very badly contaminated and although brake cleaner might work (think it's used as a fuel to burn off sometimes?), I would have though that new pads isn't too extravagant. I should add that it is possible to replace the seal with everything in place - by cutting it so that it can be slipped over the axle, then positioning the cut at the top so that it is above the level of the oil or grease in the housing. That is a cut to the rubber and the supporting spring inside the seal. I've never done this but i don't see why it wouldn't work and it's certainly a quicker solution if that's all that is needed.

Hello and a Happy New Year to you all! I'm starting to read this forum more and more. It's a great community and a great place to exchange knowledge.

For many years I used a little FM radio transmitter to do this. It plugs into the headphone skt of the device you want to hear and then it transmits an FM radio signal of this back out on one of a few different FM frequencies. You tune your in-built FM radio to this same frequency and there you are! When you get co-channel interference from a normal radio station then you select one of the other presets. Mine used a rechargeable AAA I think. Worked really well. In fact I just had a look and they have developed since then. See this example

Really sorry - I should have suggested that first - as I have done exactly that in the past. Glad it's sorted now.

They do come in two sizes and I don't think that making a bigger one fit is the right thing to do at all. I do think that you need to use the same as you have removed. It's a pity the dimensions are show on those sites. I can't remember the size of the one I have changed though, I'm sorry. The RTC3458 is available with a grease nipple (e.g. here ) and on the Paddock site it is sold as the TVC100010.

On mine I had play in the joint on the shaft to the box. It was imperceptible until I saw it (if that makes sense) and then when I did see it, it just needed the clamp to be tightened. Then I had a look at the steering box. As far as I remember there's only a hex adjuster on the top but this has a locknut with a seal. I had a heck of a job to free off the adjuster which was very tight. I couldn't get much angle to turn it. I applied a bit of heat but was worried about the seal. After a lot if mucking about I did release it and then took up the slack. I suppose I'm saying the same as Pat above, have you eliminated play on the shaft and have you really adjusted the box?!!

Yes no doubt it works just as well. Sorry I missed your earlier comment.

Maybe get a can of cutting (spray) oil as well. That might help.

Yes HappyOG, I'm going to do that. After doing a bit of looking already I think that they are all pretty much one and the same thing. I'm a bit frustrated that I didn't fix the problem quickly but I didn't have much time and really had to get it (both) sent back for a refund whist there was a window. I will look at the cheaper VW99 options and have another go. Thanks

I've got two fobs, the originals as far as I know (and they're so warn down / polished that I'm sure I'm correct ). Both have a short range even with new batteries. I usually have to be right next to the Landy before they register. It can be ever so slightly annoying...

Well I can't fathom it out. The interval can be set and then it wipes at this interval but also seems to (self?) trigger with other wipes too in between. I was very tempted to open it up and have a look and a test but as it's £40 I thought better. So I have returned both and will have a look out for the cheaper VW99 option instead. At least if that doesn't work properly I can have a look.

Bowie69 is correct. The power is a result of the voltage and the current - it doesn't create either of them. So as he says, if the voltage across the bulb is reduced because of a high resistance elsewhere and the available volts from the battery can't change then then the current has to reduce because I=V/R and now that same lower current passing through the bulb and another resistance, heats-up the additional resistance at a place that isn't designed to cope with heat (as it shouldn't have resistance) and it melts.

The relay you show doesn't appear to have a sense circuit, it's just a coil and the relay contacts. The ones in the first circuit have the voltage sense wire which is what's used to decide if the relay can be operated, closing the contact and thus allowing the alternator to be switched through to the second and third battery to charge them, once the first battery is charging at a reasonable level. As far as needing a third battery, can't really comment but I don't see why it needs a relay at all unless the idea is to only charge the third when bot the second and first are charging at the correct voltage. Don't forget that invertors aren't particularly efficient and so consumer power just to work their circuit as well as what the connected devices consume.

Yes that would be ok - a good back-up method. Just make sure that the end floating around near the battery is well insulated as you say so that it can't touch either the battery or any metal (as it will be "live" during cranking when the IGN switch is working).

I think the first question I'd try to answer is whether it's the Ignition side (meaning from the key to the solenoid on the starter - thin wires!) or if it's the high current feed into the starter motor or from that starter to earth. If you are able to, check if you have volts at the starter solenoid when the key is turned to "crank" position. test with a voltmeter or listen - If you have volts I think the solenoid will at least 'click' but I might be wrong on that bit...

Before you do separate it, make a note of the relative positions of the two yokes (if it's the front prop). There is a small difference of two spline positions (which is 22.5 degrees / a sixteenth of a full turn) to allow for the angles of the flanges on the transfer box front take off and the front diff. (At least that's for my 300 TDI).

Yes that might be the way forward - will have to wait a few days though. Plus SWMBO has now heard about the cheaper 99 versions and is asking questions...maybe I should return and start again but at least with a cheaper option. I've probably got yours!

HI , yes that makes a lot of sense and I've just spent some time getting the stalk out of the steering shroud so I can have a good look. It can't be dismantled but it's possible to get into the static contacts to clean them with a bit of wet & dry. The wiping contact can't be accessed. I sprayed with contact cleaner too - then tried but it's the same. If fact what seems to happen is that the relay will "take" a new interval only to reduce it over a few cycles before reverting to the standard 2/3 secs. Bizarre! I really thought the switch might be the source. I did also check the wiper motor ground wire and the resistance is very close to the chassis. So I'm a bit flummoxed but left it connected so that I can try when I drive up and down the motorway tomorrow at a full 14.2 volts.

Just having a look now and I've checked the resistance to earth from the relay base (black on 31) and it's < 1ohm. Also checked the + on the IGN switched (green on 15) and its a little less than at the battery terminal - but still just over 12v without the engine. I'll have a look at resistance on the wiper motor. Thanks

I wasn't aware of this relay reference and true, they are available second hand for less than the £40 i paid. Are all "99" relays the programmable type?? However I don't think there's a reason why one of these would work when the ones I have don't. It appears to have the same setting function as with the ones that I have bought so I presume similar delay circuit?? I probably need to investigate my wiring (although it works currently) or my volts.