Peaklander

There should be something (17C) but there isn't. Maybe they are paste. Also can't find some of the washers.

I took a few more photos and then bagged-up all the parts. I know how it goes back together, honest! Next is to wait for the advice on replacement parts from Global Roamer Corp. Yesterday when I handed over my TBox, Richard Ashcroft suggested / asked that when it's re-fitted, I run the vehicle without the overdrive for a while. This will eliminate any noises that the OD might introduce to the transmission. I am sure that he will get the TBox back to me well before I rebuild the OD. By the way, those planet gear needle roller bearings are weird. Each has a double stack with twenty rollers in each stack. I cant see any separating washers in the two that I have removed, so don't know how they stay apart. It's going to be a precision job to rebuild one of those, unless it comes from GRC ready built. The shafts are worn so there isn't anything serviceable really.

Today I moved onto the front axle and continued to remove the hubs as complete units. The panhard and track rod joints released easily with taps and the 14mm screws into the axle were easy to remove. I used one of the dangerous non-reversable ratchet spanners and it makes it an easy job - once I checked that nothing was going to get stuck. The hubs with swivels and driveshafts sticking out are now on the bench. Even though I committed to the purchase of a complete new final drive from Xcess 4x4, Nige has been kind enough to let me ponder the best way forward and refunded the deposit so that I can take my time and have a look at mine. I know I said that I was going to stop prevaricating but I want to in this case. I was prepared for the weight of the final drive unit but maybe I should have raised the front a bit higher. It is quite a lump. Next is to do the backlash check - everyday is a school day.

I was taught by Japanese mentors to "never give up", so try to keep your mojo working. I had to remove a VNT off a CRV this time last year- twice. It's almost impossible to get at; really really hard. So I am sure it will be simple for you on your truck and will eliminate another potential cause in your Cause & Effect.

If I ever get it back together I will do this. It's a perfect TPM (Total Productive Maintenance) approach; making things easy to check. Edit: my exhaust is a little further away.

@cackshifter @Snagger, thanks. I have been using Comma SX75W-90 GL-4 semi-synthetic oil, for which the viscosity at 40 deg is 100 and at 100 deg is 15.5. The GL4 is required rather than GL5 due to the metals in the unit. It's easy to find this oil in the UK, even Halfords sell it at £9.99 per litre currently. I have measured the drained oil and I can find a little over 3 litres and the instructions simply say that 3-4 litres is required. The fill method is TBox filled to the fill hole, then a further 3/4 litre in the OD itself. Then after a run the level is checked through a grubscrew in the OD. I didn't get this wrong and it was checked before our Scotland trip last summer.

Mine has never failed but I don't think I have ever seen the emissions data. Do they only note if there's a fail? Unless it's on the back and I haven't noticed 🤯

I re-read the whole thread when I arrived at Ashcrofts, before I knocked on their door. Opinion re the centre ATB is split somewhat, (as it is in our household) but on reflection I cancelled the HD cross pin and went for the ATB. Net increase is £255+VAT. My New Year resolution was to not prevaricate. This thread has helped me make informed decisions rather than just ponder the inputs, so thank you very much everyone.

It's not too late and I will think about it again as I drive down the M1 in a few minutes to drop it off.

They are on the same Attercliffe street as Mister Gearbox, who helped me with my Roamerdrive this week.

Maybe the faulty motor has a dirty commutator or worn brushes. ( I assume that’s how it is constructed) Most upgrades are the speed control side but I believe some people have replaced the motor with a marine bilge motor (I think that’s the right term). Try a search.

Yes they are what I meant (33"). I can see I made a typo back up the thread!

The motor has two speeds, with the slower speed provided by a small ohm but large wattage resistor that drops some of the voltage before it gets to the motor. The faster speed is provided by the full voltage. So it should work but maybe it is seized. Will it spin by hand? Can you give it a flick start when you apply the volts?

When you order an exchange box or they rebuild your own (same lead time), you need to specify what you want on Intermediate shaft and rear output shaft. The options are Recon., new OEM and new HD. I have asked Ashcrofts twice in emails, what they recommend in my case but both times got no reply. As I am dropping it off in person tomorrow, I will ask again. @Hybrid_From_Hell is the chief-cook-and-bottle-washer at Xcess4x4. I asked for his advice about upgrading my original 2 pin long nosed Rover final drive to a 4 pin. He says that no matter how much setting-up he does, it will never be a quiet, new unit. He recommends a new CW & P, made by Antonio Maserio and it then means I get a "fit & forget" new unit from a source that has had no warranty returns. I'm happy with that.

Right, decisions have been made. Transfer box is going to Ashcrofts in the morning for a sleeved case, HD cross-pin and then I need to specify the Intermediate shaft and rear output shaft. Choices are refurb., new OEM or new HD - can anyone advise on the relative merit of the refurb shaft and pin and new OEM parts please? After talking to Ashcroft and then Nige at 4x4 Xcess (link), I am getting a new 4pin Ashcroft diff with a new Ring and Pinion built into a final drive from Mr Nige.

The unused spare has 13mm Rears have 8 Fronts have 5/6 and 3/4 so a bit uneven. @Bowie69made me stop and think about their age (7 years) Edit: Steering was checked at some point. Will need doing again now I've pulled the shafts to get at the diff for Nige to work on. I have leaky swivels again and need to see if i can Devcon the pitting, as I did 7 years ago. Or maybe I need some new ones.

He's very nice and last night told me just how, erm, 'senior' he is. Wow. They have made something in the 000s of these. I can see that this failure could be my fault. I'm prepping the transfer box at the moment, to get it to Ashcrofts, so not yet measured the oil...

Yes that's all. I will measure the tread though. I suppose it depends on that. What was left on yours at 100K?

I am going to measure the quantity of oil I drained as I still have it kept separate. If I find that there was insufficient then I will never forgive myself. I know that the TBox and OD haven't been leaking and low oil can only be the result of careless filling. There is a particular method to follow and you need to allow for the extended sump but I should not have got it wrong. I can't see what else could have gone wrong. Ray in his latest email says again that the oil has overheated so something went wrong either quickly, in my ownership, or slowly as a result of something in its previous life. Either way, I am finding the whole thing a little sad. Global Roamer are putting together a list of required parts and again said that the unit is very very difficult to open-up. I totally agree!

I do need new tyres as mine are well worn (four out of the five) and old (35K miles and seven years). Now to open-up more discussion... They are BFG ATs on boost alloys but I have an unused set of genuine Wolf rims... Should I move over to the Wolfs and if so, leave in the green or should they be painted? What tyres -235/85 BFG ATs again or should I move up to 285/55 and gain a little extra height? Anyone running ATs in this profile and what brand are they?

Ha, I have listened to all the advice and have decided on no ATBs or lockers for now. I will get the cross pin and sleeved case plus I will upgrade the front to a 4 pin diff. As I said elsewhere, I will look at driving style and be ready to alter tyre pressures.

Yes I am specifying that and a sleeved case. I have asked Dave Ashcroft in my email to him today if a reconditioned Intermediate shaft and rear output shaft would be ok or if I should go new OEM. The current lead-time is three weeks and I might even deliver it to them myself to speed things up and save me sorting a pallet etc. I think that's why it took you a couple of hours whereas I was significantly longer! It's a very long way down between the input shaft, inside the output shaft and the clip is the lower of the two that are in there. Yes, creating heat. I am sure that it wasn't driving style, either by me or the previous owner who I have talked to today. I do sometimes leave it engaged, as I like the slightly higher 1st gear but this isn't very often and certainly not when driving around here. I think it was driven that way before I bought it but it is supposed to handle that.

No decided that although it’s nice and kicks in before I would notice the wheelspin, I can’t justify with my use and the cost. In fact I’m going to upgrade my open front diff to 4 pin and consider my driving technique and where appropriate, control tyre pressure instead. Edit @Hybrid_From_Hell I left a message on your ansaphone

I’ve had another reply from Ray after he viewed this thread. Repairs and upgrades seem possible. He says the planet gears are usually destroyed by excessive temperatures caused by hard driving with the overdrive engaged. He’s advising I replace the bearings, the planet assemblies, the sun shaft and the baulk rings. There is an upgrade which will fit as I have a later unit. Quote: “upgrade is to replace the cone on the planetary assembly with a modified one ( I'm quite proud of this mod.) Externally it looks the same but it incorporates an annular female ring and radial oil passages. This forces more oil into the planetary shafts using centrifugal force and the assembly is better lubricated and runs cooler”. Next is to get a shopping list together for local sourced bits such as bearings and baulk rings and the specials which will be direct from Roamer Corp. This has helped me decide on the ATBs. Guess why 🥲

Do you literally add the individual rollers one by one? These gears seem to have them double stacked which would make it very difficult...