Peaklander

Putting the mounts back was a hard job. I had managed to 'double nut' one of the studs so one side could slide back but I couldn't undo the stud at the other side. So the engine had gone in with the left side stud out and the right side mount bracket off. Getting the mount back wasn't too hard but getting the stud back in was. From underneath, even with the double nuts tight, I needed to use two open end spanners as they kept turning. The construction of the bracket means that the spanners go in on an angle and it's very 'testing'. I spent the rest of yesterday re-connecting everything. One note, make sure the exhaust downpipe is pointing upwards before you refit the engine as it is almost impossible to more it around afterwards. I tided-up a few electricals with more self-amalgamating tape and sealed one or two places with rtv. I have just the batteries to re-connect and the A bar and spots to refit. Then I can get back to preparing for the trip which is less than three week away now.

I had a great help and would like to thank @92a for sending me a spare 'bush kit' as supplied by Mike at Brittanica and a standard fork. The modification really does look like an improvement. I hadn't wanted to wait for one to come in the post from Canada, as I need to get the vehicle back on the road quickly. So it was great to receive the parts in a couple of days and I was able to fit the bush at the weekend. I don't have a hole saw of the correct size and I was intending to go and buy one in Sheffield the next day but made a request on a village fb group and a guy at a local company offered to drill it for me on Saturday morning. I modified the standard fork rather than my HD one, purely to save on drilling as the HD, with the reinforcing plate at the pivot point, is much thicker. I checked with Ben at Clutchfix about the thickness of the friction plate, (8.3mm) which is virtually no wear since fitting in 2018 and looked as critically as I could around the pressure / cover plate assembly and flywheel, deciding that there was nothing to cause any worries or the juddering and creak. I decided that it was caused by lack of lubrication on the splines of the gearbox input shaft and the release arm pivot. The only place that had enough grease was the slave cylinder pushrod / clip and the pedal box. Finally I aligned the pressure plate using an extension with tape wrapped around the end for a snug fit in the spigot bush and got it the correct way round. The refit was very easy and with a second pair of hands the engine slotted up to the gearbox at the first attempt. I fastened the nuts at the top, ready for a test of the pivot. However I had already decided to reseal the slave cylinder because of the weeping that started when we were trying to find the creak a few days earlier. So before testing the fork, I cleaned it and fitted the seal. The kit only has the piston and cover seal so it isn't a big job but it does have consequences. Upon refitting i didn't notice how tight the pushrod is in the new end cover - more on this later. It bleed but not particularly easily and the all-new fluid came out black so that indicated a problem in the master cylinder too. However a good pedal was available and the creak was no more. So I got an overhaul kit for the master and then went to drain it by disconnecting the flexi at the slave, to realise that this can't be done without either breaking the joint higher-up or removing the slave so it can spin around. What could possibly go wrong removing the slave? i was on a roll, the engine had gone in easily, the slave was fine so confidently I pulled back on the cylinder and without enough light underneath to notice, the drag on the pushrod from the new end seal, pulled it out of the clutch fork clip. This was a moment when lack of experience shows - I was careless and not only that, with a quick google, I discovered that I could have secured the clip to prevent this happening. However the crane was still connected and it was only a few minutes before the engine was moved forward enough to get at the arm and I tie-wraped the clip. The vehicle was half-in the garage and I was supposed to be going to my Dad's 95th birthday party but this time the engine wouldn't go back. Try as I might, more and more frantically, I couldn't do it in the short time available. So I lifted it out, onto the floor, pushed the truck out and shut the garage door, rushing off to more important things! On Monday morning I overhauled the master cylinder. This is a bit more involved and fiddly the first time you do it. The seal at the end of the valve stem is tiny... Main cylinder seal is easier. As I have a Girling master and AP slave I thought that this was a better approach than simply buying new. It was soon back together and the pedal box refitted with rtv as a seal. At the first attempt the engine lifted in and slotted-up. The hydraulics bled very easily and all seems good.

I think my 'problem' was that as I started to lift it, it seemed reluctant to move. I presumed this was the gearbox and Tbox resisting movement upwards. On reflection it was probably just the weight. I have only lifted it once before, off and on a bare chassis and I don't recall it feeling heavy - but it was heavy yesterday. Mike at Brittanica replied quickly to a YouTube comment I made, advising to wind the studs out now, making it easier to slide it back. Once engaged and with a few fastenings back to the gearbox, lift it up to put the studs back in. Yes I did swing the PAS pump away to the side but then took it off as I decided to clean it and look at fitting a new gasket. It has been leaking and I had already replaced an O-ring on the hp pipe off it but the gunge was behind the pulley so I don't know if there's another leak or not.

I like the look of it but the estimated delivery date is two weeks hence. I know it will probably be quicker but I can't wait that long.

Ah yes Ok, understand that. I must be slowing down with old age. I would have preferred to find an obvious cause but that would be a good approach. I have moly grease so can use that. I just need to get a seal kit or new slave. I'd rather just get a kit as it's only one seal and it's an AP cylinder so should be good.

I can't work out what you mean, sorry. Can you explain more - bellhousing bolts? / and how can I get something for the arm to push against?

Getting the engine out wasn't difficult except for dealing with the engine mounts. Also the two bulkhead nuts at about 9 and 3 o'clock were a but of a stretch. I removed the nuts top and bottom from the engine mounts, left just the top few bulkhead nuts and tried to lift the engine. The intention was to lift it by tilting (with the gearbox / transfer still on its mounts) high enough for the studs to clear. I guess I was then going to pull it forward off the gearbox input shaft. I either didn't have the b^55%s to lift it, worried that I was straining something, or that method doesn't work. I instead removed the entire mounting support brackets. This is quite easy, four bolts at the side and two against the flywheel housing. After that the engine was happy to slide forward and out. Mike on Brittanica says to remove the studs with the 'double nut' method but I can't see how this can be done before extraction. There's no access with spanners to tighten them against each other. Even at re-installation I don't know if the nuts could be released after. How have you people done this? There's a curious mix in the bellhousing. White crystals, some brake fluid (very sharp on the tongue) and a little heavier oil. I didn't find anything obviously bad around the release arm except that the ball is dry, with just a trace of copper slip there. I can see that I should have used lithium grease to lube this area but didn't (at chassis change in 2018). At the clutch there is a little rust and I wonder if this is from the tiny water leak that I had at the back of the head on the heater pipe spigot. It has tracked onto the pressure plate but my inexperience is such that I can't tell if it might have been the problem. I removed the pressure plate and the flywheel and friction plate look to be good. There's no sign of engine oil and so I won't touch the rear crankshaft seal. I had already moved to the HD arm but that is 'just' thicker metal. I was interested to read about Brittanica Mike's release arm bush design ( thanks @cackshifter). Is this a common upgrade? So what to do? 1. Get a seal kit for my AP slave cylinder. 2. Think about replacing or re-sealing the master cylinder too 3. Maybe fit a new R380 input shaft seal 4. Get a gasket or whatever I need for the power steering pump 4. Use Lithium grease at refit - I have white ceramic grease - maybe that's the correct stuff

The camera-scope was only useful enough to show that I could get a bit of oil on the clip and end of the push rod but it made no difference. I have decided to lift the engine out. I can't face lying on my back to do the gearbox slide method. I have had a pleasant afternoon standing up, going through the steady disconnections and I am left with just the top bellhousing bolts and the engine mounts. What I had thought was a leaky o-ring on the power steering pump union, appears to be a leaky pump - so I need to do some research into repairing or replacing that. Also, as I removed the lower bellhousing bolts and the gap to the flywheel housing opened a touch, clutch fluid began to drip onto me. I know that there hasn't been a discernible loss of fluid but the slave must have started to leak in the past few days. I will look into re-sealing it, rather than just replacing. I presume that's a very straightforward job. I will probably rely on the transfer box mounts (and the propshafts as steadies) when I lift the engine. After it's out I need to push the vehicle back out of the garage - it will be half in for the lift.

It’s definitely brake fluid, so yes I will replace it anyway.

Had a look underneath and pulled the slave. I am charging-up an old phone that I use with a camera-scope just to see what I can see. The slave is weeping a very tiny bit but it's not enough to spoil anything. Maybe the push rod joint in the clip is dry and I will squirt something in there. However the creak is at a lower frequency than I think would be made by it. It sounds as though it's coming off a bigger lump of metal. Moving the gearbox back is doable but I have a cubby and heater above (which I have only just refitted after the tbox overhaul). If I lift the engine then at least I can have a walk around it. If it is the push rod, then life will be simpler. Other duties call and I need to postpone until this afternoon.

Yes I wondered about that. Obviously I want to be sure that I fix it properly but it's worth a try if it removes the squeak and the judder. Perhaps that's job #1. At least I know the underside as I have had the transfer box off recently. To be honest I found that quite a struggle. I presume the tunnel needs to come off. What about sliding back to the crossmember - is there space without removing it? It was tight to fit it originally and I needed to spread the chassis. I don't fancy doing that again.

I had kept the wading plug in otherwise I wouldn’t have noticed this. There’s no discernible fluid loss but there is a tiny amount on the plug. Also the noise is definitely from the bell housing. 📢 Cause and effect? I’m not sure but I think I’m going to take a look. IMG_5935.MOV

Yes Ralph, it was hoping it was that. I checked from the footwell and then in the top of the pedal box. It's definitely inside the bellhousing - very loud if you are underneath when the pedal is operated. Also I have been experiencing a slight clutch judder but was managing to ignore it.

It's probably a blessing to have found this now but I'd rather not have done. Had a 560 mile trip last week, visiting friends in south and west Wales and enjoying the weather along the coast, camping, walking etc. etc. Primary purpose was to checkout the vehicle before embarking on a long trip, wandering around Spain for six weeks. All the items that I wanted to check have behaved themselves but an annoying clutch squeak has 'begun'. I assumed it was the pivot in the pedal box or the pedal return spring and have lubed it all, although it was already well lubed. Once I got underneath and the pedal was operated by my glamorous assistant, it was louder than a loud thing and must be associated with the release arm. This was changed at new chassis time in 2018, using a reinforced arm that I think I bought from xcess4x4. So although I'm not expecting it to punch through, something is amis. I am getting my head around lifting the engine out to find out why and fix it - rather than have some unexpected failure in the middle of a nice relaxing trip in a few weeks. Lifting the engine out will be a (yet another) first for me. I have a crane but need to see how high it will lift. It would be helpful if I could avoid removing the A-bar and front panel / radiator as that would make the job quicker. EDIT: I have already read that I should remove the front. My crane won't get it high enough. Is there any reason why I shouldn't / don't need to do this as preventive maintenance? I have the time...

Not yet. This is a road trip of about 600miles to be sure the rest is ok. As well as the TBox and front drive I have replaced the swivels, removed and checked props, all calipers and some camping related stuff. All ready for a trip around Spain for six weeks. I have yet to start the Roamerdrive rebuild. The first two Items on that are tricky - synchro hub onto new sun shaft and new planet shafts into carrier.

I’m not sure if it’s there either!

Yes thanks, I heard about that last week. It’s a good price. We are just on a little shakedown trip with the other two ATBs that are now fitted. In normal driving I can’t feel the one at front.

The fridge has a duty cycle too so not a continuous load. Depending where it is sited in your vehicle (don’t know what that is) you can shade the windows or the fridge directly, to reduce the ambient temp and extend the cycling.

What was the alignment like before you removed the injection pump? Did you move to TDC and then clamp the pump pulley or not bother and do it at refit? I presume it was the latter, hence the ‘problem’. Edit. I realise though that we are talking about both ends of the crank - so it can’t change!

I’ve had that and it was the earth on the right side of the transfer box, not far from the front flange.

Thanks @Maverik I missed that in my haste as I was flicking through the thread in a spare moment. 😀 Edit: ordered from Turners. Had to pay for DPD overnight which is a pain but there's no choice (I did ask). I have done a few miles today and would have checked the hose now I'm home but it's been wet all day and is no better now so it can wait.

Running around after aged parents today. Didn’t get a very helpful reply from Turners, just that it’s a stocked part but no part number provided. I guess Frieda thinks I should do my own research! So I will have a look when I can for the part number. Am driving around a bit today so I will see if it’s cured for now but I will change the spigot. @Bowie69yes I feel the silicone hoses do need more clamp force. I’ve had these on for a few years now with Mikalor clamps. This is the first problem.

The spigot has cleaned-up a little but isn't perfect. I have fitted a smaller clamp. The silicone hose is good. I have looked for a part number for a new spigot but can't see it - and have asked Turners for advice. In the meantime I can give it a whirl and see if it has sealed. It does look as though that's the cause of my mild panic yesterday.

Well it's pretty obvious really. The fog lamp switch, still on the right side next to the door on my vehicle, is fed with a spur off the headlights, switching this to the fog and the warning lamp in the dash. No relay is used, so it differs from the older circuit diagram and the newer one that has the ECU.

Yes it's promising. The camera makes it look obvious but really it isn't. A small phone (iPhone 12 Mini) can access places with x5 magnification and a short focal length, providing detail that my eyes can't get at! I couldn't see the bottom of that heater hose.