Peaklander

You can always bypass the connector with a cable direct to the battery, just to check. Also clean the earth at the stud.

No, I went crazy trying to find them. Some holes are my failed attempts at locating them, hence the advice about carefully revealing and not grinding metal away.

Here's the circuit. As I say it's 97MY but I'm pretty confident that yours will be the same. If you follow the Purple wire from the fuses, it connects to the bulb in the lamp unit and with the switch in the dotted position it would complete the circuit to ground (0V) on the Black though the header joint K109 to an earth stud C556 which is actually on the engine side of the bulkhead (see the second pic). So you can see that in the ON position the lamp is not dependant on the alarm at all. EDIT: A TD5 person might come along and tweak this advice to suit your vehicle.

When I get home I will post the circuit diagram. It’s for the 300 TDI 97 model year which I think will be similar. It will be clearer then I’m sure.

No. With the Switch in DOOR position, the alarm isn't in the circuit. In this case it is fed on one side with +12V on the Purple and the circuit completes through the Black directly to earth.

Thanks guys. Was just checking 😄

My view late this afternoon. We are quite low compared to others in the Peak District. It has been a fair old dump for late November in a northerly which usually brings clear cold weather.

Me too. Is there a 'forum preferred' location? I wouldn't want to put it in the wrong place. 😉

To whet your appetite and help you decide about doing it in the cold and dark or warm and sunny, here are some of my pics, on the 110 but the same job... (I said it's hard to find the welds!) EDIT: I had previously repaired the footwell with a new piece but foolishly told myself that the foot was OK

Those feet slide up inside the A post till just above the bottom hinge. They can be replaced in situ. I did one recently on my Defender but you do need the wing off. It's difficult as you need to drill out the spot welds that join it to the post and that means finding them first. Take your time and scrap the paint very carefully and you will see the spot weld tip impressions. Don't start flap wheeling or something equally aggressive as that will remove metal and hide the marks. If you need to replace the footwell then it will be a more complete job to change the A post and the post foot, all at the same time. It's just a bit of welding. I borrowed a spot welder when I did my 88" but on my 110 I puddle-welded.

Yes it sounds as though you do need a new connector and the green box you mention is the alarm; 10AS is the name. The door switches, which still connect to ground when the doors open, are connected into the 10AS. It can therefore sense when a door is opened and it switches the light on for you but then delays the switch off to give you time to find the ignition etc. As soon as you switch the ignition on, the 10AS switches the light off. If you don't switch it on, the 10AS holds the light on for longer. On my 300TDi that is 15 secs. It's a similar action when you leave the vehicle and close the doors.

One text to say there’s been no power since sometime last night. I have no idea how they are managing but they are old enough and wise enough to cope!

My Buxton family gave up this afternoon, with no idea when their power will be restored. They dug themselves out and have come to stay here. Winyter tyres on their vehicle but not really needed now.

Daughter #2 and family stayed west of Durham last night at a pre arranged group house party. Nothing heard since arrival / no WhatsApp deliveries. Daughter #1 and family live in Buxton and had no power since overnight with plenty of snow and trees down. We have snow and an odd tree down around here. Quite a storm but still doesn’t compare with 1987 when I worked overnight near Abingdon, through the hurricane

Do you have an alarm? I don't thing that you do as it's a hardtop. Alarm means that the circuit is more complicated. If you don't have an alarm then with the switch in "ON", the lamp is earthed directly through a black cable in the loom. If it is in "DOOR" then the lamp is earthed through one or both of the door switches on the A posts, through the purple/white wire. Both of these switch positions need the "other end" of the lamp to be at +12V, alway there and fed with the purple cable. The quickest check is to provide your own earth at the lamp at the end of it that is connected to the black or the purple/white (depending on that switch position). You can do this with the switch in either position using a length of cable from a known bit of metal, touching the bulb or the connector. Just be sure that you know which end of the bulb to touch. If you get the wrong end then the fuse will blow. This will eliminate the other earth paths and will check just the power (+12V) supplied on that purple wire. If it works then it's a problem on the earth side and if it doesn't then something on the supply side is a problem.

LR Series at Market Weighton - I haven't bought from them for some time though. I did once call-in when passing and whilst they did sell to me, they didn't want to as they are mail-order only. However they used to have a good choice of parts from Genuine to ... As I say though I have no recent experience and should add that counter service isn’t their bag though maybe they’d do click and collect “for a local”!

Google the Gunk, as it’s available widely. I think it’s even available mail order.

Still trying to help the original post These are my fronts. There’s no way that they have gone soft in three years. The pics are with the vehicle level. When the axle drops away, the upper coils will open. When it moves back up they will compress. When it moves up further then the lower coils will compress. Isn’t that what will happen?

Here's the pic of my old and new fronts. There was some discussion at the time about the different lengths with white/white for the driver's side. I fitted them the other way up so the tighter turns are at the top and the bottom retain bar can fit through.

I'm going to check mine as the top coils are touching (or almost) and I think that they were, right from the start at chassis change. I'm sure that the bump stops are miles away. I'm pretty sure that the spring colour codes that I bought are correct.

Mine are Monroe Adventurers that were bought in 2015. I have done about 40K miles on them. The springs that we talked about earlier, were changed at my chassis swap which was in 2018 and there is discussion about the front springs on pages 5 and then later on 14-15 of my thread.

yes and if the Fusion People would only get it sorted, it would be extremely helpful. However it's so difficult...

No but the renewables can be sold 'separately', limited by what they actually generate and your provider can put their name on some of it. There must be controls on the aggregated amount that they are saying they sell. Mustn't there??

I do mix my own concrete and mortar and do exactly what I described. I'm the wrong side of 60 too. It's easier with ready mix though and that's why I mentioned it!

I tend to agree. Mixing your own is quite complex even with your own Belle mixer. I’ve done plenty over the years and you need to be organised ‘at the mixer”. Sand / ballast needs to be next to it. You can easily need a bulk bag. If it can’t be dropped off the lorry exactly at the mixing spot, then you need to decant from there to mixer, moving the contents of the full bag to an empty one, with wheelbarrow and planks to run along, unless it’s hard and smooth. Then you need a water supply fairly handy and of course need to carry the cement bags. Finally the mixer needs to be on a stand so you can drop straight into a barrow to move the mix to the exact spot. If you tip it onto the floor it’s just more work. Also after cleaning, the mixer water itself needs to be lost somewhere.