ianmayco68

That’s well smart, there’s a lot of thought gone into that .

Cheers Scott , that’s good to know , just saved me £50 .

Cheers cackshifter , I brought an oem one so have modified it . Copied someone on here that welded some angle onto the guard then I’ll weld some nuts onto the inside of the rear cross member so you can bolt it from underneath . The side brackets I got off gdi products on eBay they’re like the originals but going to weld nuts on the inside then drill the guard out so again you can bolt it from underneath. Will upload the photos later on of what I’ve done into my build thread .

Cheers Scott , that’s were I must have read it , got the measurements now . The problem I’ve got is mine’s a 300tdi cross member so it hasn’t got the access holes in it so you can tighten the nuts up on the guard that go through it . Have found a thread off here were someone has done this and he welded to bits of angle iron onto the guard so it bolts on through the bottom of the rear cross member, which should make life easier. Does anyone know were you can buy the fuel line fittings that go on to the tank sender unit from ? Or is it a case of buying some fuel lines and cutting them off , which is what I’ve read someone on here did.

Good idea , found some on eBay Hodgesons non-setting sealant will get some ordered .

Hi all , I’ve modded my 300tdi 90 project and fitted a td5 fuel tank but having read a few threads I’ve noticed that the tank guard causes a lot of problems at later dates when removing, so have any of you modded the guard so it’s easier to remove and refit ? And also I’ve read somewhere about cutting an inspection hatch in the tub floor so you can remove and refit the fuel tank sender with out removing the tank but for the life of me I can’t find were I’ve read it , so would any one have some measurements of where the hole should be cut in the tub floor ? Any help much appreciated Ian

Think mines been there since it was first built but mines got the lift up handle , will remove it for paining hope fully it will reseal okay when refitted .

Hi all , I’ve got to the stage on my project where I’m starting to prep for paint , have decided to paint the truck first after all the welding and repairing is done then rebuild the engine and other mechanicals after as that can be done when the weather turns cold . So on to my question , the truck has a sunroof fitted it didn’t leak before , and looking on eBay found the exact same one listed as a military wolf sunroof , if they exist it’s got the metal frame on the inside . So I would like to remove it before painting then refit after , but will this cause me problems resealing it when I refit it ? As I seem to remember some threads I’ve read were it was advised not to , but that might just be me imagining it . Also what do Land Rover put in the roof gutter to seal it mine appears to be cracked, is it advisable to remove the old and replace with new stuff ? Cheers for any help or advice Ian

YRM do the parts all bent up and ready for fixing if you want to replace the bad bits .

It is removable but fits in just snugly enough to stop it bouncing about when your off roading , didn’t want it there permanent as if I need to carry a large load I can fetch it out easy enough . Or in removable do you mean portable ?

+1 for MKPerformance hoses got the full set on mine had no problems in 2 years . Took this pic the other day for roamingyaks post , it’s of the cyclone breather to air box hose don’t know how it compares to others as it’s the first time I’ve had them fitted , but might help you make a decision. cheers Ian

According to there web site there is internal baffles rather than the mesh or gauze found in Gen ones inside , reducing the chances of it getting blocked .

I made this it fits snugly between the wheel wells in the back of the 110 sw up against the 2nd row seats , I shaped the bottom so it fits over the seat belt anchors in the floor . It’s got a wheel changing kit from a disco , colapsable shovel, hammer , tow rope ,socket set , screw drivers and other tools , and still room on the rear floor . Cost about £20 to make .

Had a bit of time this morning so had a look there was some black residue there but it was dry and looked like soot , had to change the tank to sump hose a while ago as it was knackered . Didn’t fetch the air box off but rubbed some tissue round inside the top of the air box and got the same dry black oil . The trucks used daily about 25miles so as it was used last night I would have thought it would have still been wet if lots were coming up . thats a couple of fitting, same as original that’s what was on the tissue when I rubbed it round the inside the air box were the hose comes in from the tank and inside the hose and a couple of inside the hose , hope this helps as how I use my truck is totally different to how you use yours. If you would like me to take the air box off still and have a look inside at the weekend I would be happy to do so . Cheers Ian

Already got a manual in the back of my workshop manual for the 200tdi , that’s a bonus .

Cheers Steve , will get that down loaded and printed off .

That’s brilliant Steve thank you very much , the box off my project that I put on the 110 has some slack in the input shaft which is quite noticeable so I will try tightening that up and see if it makes any difference.

Cheers Steve , corteco it is . The sliding rack you mention in your above post is that something that needs tightening up as the box gets older ? Does it remove any slack in the input shaft ? cheers Ian

I’ve got an Allisport one fitted on my 200tdi 110 , I rebuilt the engine 2 years ago and the few times since that I’ve had the air box off I’ve not noticed any oil in the box , whether I’m just lucky I don’t know . As for the fitting it fits in exactly the same way as the original one and I’ve had no problems there , if you can wait till the weekend I’ll take the filter box off and take some photos for you if you want . cheers Ian

Cheers all , thanks Steve will take you up on that as I have decided to have a go . Think the way forward is to strip the box with the knackered case and see what the parts are like inside will post some pics up when I do it to see if they are ok . Have found the usual cheap and nasty seal kits on eBay but have found a corteco seal kit and a GACO one which are £30 each is there any preference ? And have found someone that sells some of the other parts .

Think I’d be looking to replace them , they’re a bit wobbly looks like the pin has shrunk .

That’s what I was thinking, I’ve got the one off the 90 I’m rebuilding on the 110 at the minute , yes know what you mean about rebuilt ones . Was going to try shop4autoparts they sell rebuilt ones and they’re listed as Oem rebuilt so was thinking they might be better .

Hi all , how easy is it to strip and rebuild a steering box ? Do you need any special tools for setting it up ? The reason I am asking is I have a old steering box off my 110 , it was working fine when I removed it during the rebuild but somehow the case got damaged after removal. The threaded hole where the return hose screws into got pushed in so basically it’s useless, I can’t send it for a refurb box as it’s not serviceable . So as I’ve got another knackered box lying around I thought, strip both boxes and providing the parts are okay get a genuine seal kit rebuild with all the good parts and bingo I’d have a good box . I have searched the net and I know the consensus is that new seals very rarely work , I also read a very good post by mickeyw off here , which didn’t work out for him. So do you all think it’s worth wasting some time on ? Well at least stripping the unserviceable box just to see what the parts are like inside. Any advice most welcome. chers Ian

Hi Paul , I have an Autosparks loom brand new brought it by mistake when I rebuilt the 110 , if your interested pm me and I’ll send you some pics . cheers Ian

Think I’ll stick with the hyper clean and a plastic tub , the wife’s mardy enough as it is .