ianmayco68

Cheers both will have a look at them .

I’ve been looking into using a power distribution board off a disco td5 ( the engine bay part ) having had a quick look at the wiring diagrams I think it’s doable, got one of eBay for £15 with all the fuses , relays and the plugs in the rear . All the fuses and relays are wired up via a printed copper circuit board so no wires .

Hi all , looking for recommendations on a decent brake line flaring tool as it’s coming to that time on the project , don’t mind spending a bit as long as it’s easy to use and does a good job . Have done a search on here but no joy so any help much appreciated. Cheers Ian

Hi Mike , sorry only just seen this thread . Firstly they weren’t expensive LED headlights got them off eBay, but I don’t like the beam pattern and the high beam is not much better than normal . To try and explain it , were as normal headlights seem to light the way and even make open roads light up the LED ones I’ve got don’t, they seem fine in lanes with hedges either side or in other similar situations but in open situations they are severely lacking and are not as good as normal headlights. Whether the more expensive ones are any better I couldn’t say , but I personally wouldn’t spend that sort of money on LED headlights that the more expensive brands want to fit to a Defender . cheers Ian

Found a place that does them cheaper shop4autoparts they’ve got some at £18 and I need to order some parts off them so going to order one .

Yes I think the newer type will be stronger and if I remember correctly they used ones with a nut to secure the wiper arm on project binky as it enabled the to use better wiper arms .

Did a bit more on the wiper MOD today , it's getting hard to motivate myself just lately but here goes , I think I said earlier the arm's are off a disco 1 wiper system . So cut the disco wiper spindles off as the diameter was to big drilled a hole in the center at 50mm , which was what James had worked it out to for the sweep ( hope you don't mind James and thank you ) had to cut the sides off the wheel box as the arms wouldn't rotate with them on and they ended up like this wanted to knock them on to the spindle shafts as the shafts are serrated like a cog but when I tried I bent one shaft and damaged the collar on the other so drilled them just large enough to put them on and will have to put a blob of weld on to hold them , and one of the mock up of how it should work . I need to lengthen the operating bar's and take the pivot arm pin out of one of the ends and fit a bolt as it's not long enough to take 2 arms . Still haven't decided on whether to use new version or the older type of wheel box , so I'm going to order 1 of the td5 type and see what's involved in making it work , as they are 25 quid a pop .

Just a bit of an update , took all the air intake hoses off yesterday one off the hoses had come a bit loose so sorted that . Then took the diaphragm out the pin inside moved but I wouldn't say it was smooth , a bit jerky I would have said but I pushed it back in with no problem , it was clean in there but do you think a spry of some lube would be advisable ? If so what's best to use ? Will run it for a few days and see how she goes > cheers Ian

They wire up a similar pair in the new project binky , and I think the side lights are a lot better. Thinking of getting a set for my 110 as I’ve got led headlights fitted at the minute and I don’t like them .

It’s the side light John , there’s 2 types of headlight bowls one with the side light as your new ones that Land Rover fitted to the SVX 90 that they did a while ago , I believe and possibly others . And with out like your old ones which is fitted normally to Defenders , you could wire it up to your side lights or leave it unused I’d imagine .

I had a quick look on the net before leaving for work, did find a post , 300tdi had ticking noise from the pump it turned out to be a hardened shaft in the fip, refurbished ones are £420 on eBay from a diesel specialist, but if you have one near you take the fip off and get them to check it they might do it cheaper , but if it’s possible it’s the lift pump I’d change that 1st as they aren’t expensive . just found this it’s about a 200tdi but set up the same says might be fuel starvation because lift pump isn’t working rite . https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/87197-potential-injection-pump-noise/

Can’t tell you exactly what it might be unfortunately, but I’d check the viscous fan 1st they make a clicking noise when they’re catching on something and generally around the engine bay where anything rotates as noise can be deceiving in its origin , then if nothing is visible as much as it might be a pain I’d then strip the timing cover off just to be sure last thing you want is the timing belt going , unless someone else can say what it might be .

Perhaps the lorry driver saw a new defender mule in front and couldn’t believe what they’d done to it , didn’t notice the low bridge sign . Next thing you know convertible Range Rover is born .

Looking forward to this should be interesting .

Cheers Eightpot will try that, the service was done by a friend of a friend and I don’t think he stripped it down totally as there was a bit of gunk on the plate on the diaphragm. Removed the plastic spacer before I started tuning as I fitted a Morgan hill boost pin , but had problems as there was lag when putting your foot down till the power came on and you went , it was so bad I struggled to get up a short ramp at work when going through the gates , so removed the pin and refitted the standard one . Pritchard on here had the same problem.

Eightpot after removing the diaphragm and pin how do you check the pins moving okay? Press the accelerator? And make sure it’s back in before replacing the diaphragm!

Got a boost gauge fitted and it goes all the way up to 1 bar and the egt’s aren’t that high either goes to about 650 when I floor it . Have just had a quick look and can’t see any obvious problems but think taking the hoses off at the weekend is in order as with the engine being hot can’t quite pull on some. Will take the turbo to dip pipe off and check that. That had crossed my mind to Eightpot that it’s freed itself and is working correctly now.

Cheers cackshifter will check those tomorrow or on the car park at work as that’s were I’m off to in a bit , though all the hoses are silicone ones and where fitted new when I did the rebuild , just a thought I have something in my head that I’ve read somewhere of someone that had problems when they fitted a piper cross air filter to there Defender ? Or am I loosing the plot . But I quite agree there cackshifter something happened but I don’t know what .

They did a full service on it , even told me there was water in it and someone had been using red diesel , also the anti tamper collars were on . On the fuelling I followed one of the tuning guides or the internet that was flagged up in other posts , everything was running fine for a few days then it started smoking.

Hi all , I’ve been tweaking my fip pump and have hit a problem this has been going on for a while and I’ve been trying to sort it myself but having no joy so thought I’d ask the more experienced grownups on here . So it’s a Defender 200tdi 110 truck was rebuilt and has been on the road 2 years , engine rebuilt and had the pump and injectors checked by a diesel specialist , but pump did sit about for 12/18 months before 1st start up . So started to tweak the pump , I haven’t gone mad with this the anti tamper collar on the pump pressure screw is still on . I moved the star wheel and smoke screw about 1 1/2 , fuel pin turned and turned the pump pressure up in small increments, actually got to the stop . Everything was fine she pulled well was good off the mark and there was no smoke at all even when flooring it , I was quite pleased with myself . Then my curse struck , all of a sudden now I get smoke when accelerating like there’s to much fuel being pumped through to the injectors. I’ve tried turning the pressure screw down and the fuel pin is now on the lowest setting , tick over is fine no smoke and she sounds sweat and she runs okay , it’s like a seal has gone or something is sticking inside the pump . One thing I have noticed is sometimes after changing gear how the revs increase slightly, the revs will increase slightly when at idle when the engine is warm . Phew , so anyone got any ideas on things that I can try myself or is it time to swap it for a new one or get a second hand good one of eBay. Any advice as always is much appreciated . cheers Ian

Cheers both will give that one a miss then .

I’ve been looking into this for my project 90 300tdi ,just had an email from a firm in Stoke/ Burton they’ve quoted £168+vat to refurb and recore with a 3 row one . Is 3 row any better than what’s on there originally?

Think a previous owner has fitted these western by the state of the holes cut in the side panels. I’m presuming they are Caldwell ones as the name is etched into the glass, these are rivet on ones also and the same size as genuine ones as Scotts90 measured his for me , unless they’re genuine frames and someone has replaced the glass with Caldwell glass.

Cheers oneandtwo think the windows must be different, as the garrison kit only covers upto 2001 .

Must admit it looks better than what was fitted originally, will give it a go I’ll let you know if it’s any good if I get to fit it before you .