ianmayco68

Hi all , I need to buy a new rubber dump valve for the air filter canister NRC8955 , the rubber bit on the bottom with lips , but can't find one for less than £25 which I think is a bit excessive . So does anyone have a cheaper solution rather than a replacement ? cheers Ian

Cheers western, now all I need to do is start the bloody thing .

Yep rotated round twice and all still lined up 👍.

Only once, and the engines never been run yet .

So just to clarify for everyone , locked pump , took timing belt off turned crank and bang on top pin locked in , so just need to bolt everything back up , thank #### that’s done ✅ , hopefully I’ll post a pic up of the timing pin @darthdickyfor you in case there’s a next time.

Thanks Ed but I think I’ll be fine, haven’t got any coolant in yet so I’ll take it apart and reset the timing with the pump pin in and the one in the flywheel and that should be fine, hopefully . I will hopefully start her up then in a week or two, should finish the dash shortly then off to the trimmers.

Yes mate I understood that bit , I set it so the pump pin was correct first , couldn’t find said hole in the flywheel so removed the pin the turned her over by hand . The timing pin clicked in when the pump had done half a revolution . Cheers Ed got it straight in my head now so will step it down and redo it , oh my head hurts hahaha. Digressing slightly, did you get your gates sorted ? And there is a hole in the flywheel to set the timing for anyone else having trouble.

If I turn it so the fuel pump timing is correct then the hole in the flywheel is not correct, so my question is does the crankshaft do 2 revolutions to the pumps one? This is what the bloke told me that said it might be wrong and put the doubt in my mind . The pin went in with a good click.

Findings , think I found the hole on the flywheel , pic from underneath, which means that the timing is 180 degrees out , so using the markings on the timing case is this possible? Before I take it all apart to redo it.

Sorry I haven't got back on this yet but works gone mad again and we're doing plenty overtime in the week , but I'm not in tomorrow and will be looking to see if I can find said hole in mine tomorrow and I'll post up whether it's there or not .

Sp4x4ones Ross, here you go , hows that .

Yep I have the Ali ones on the 110 , been on 4/5 years and had no problems with them. Can put a couple of pics up of them if you want?

Cheers ,I’ll check tomorrow when back from work . cheers Ian

Cheers Richard , it's on my project so hasn't run yet which is the worrying bit , I fitted the pump timing pin and lined up all the arrows in the case I then turned it over a good few times to see if the belt ran true and it seemed fine I only need to get the wiring in and she can be fired up . I would imagine that if something was seriously out the engine would have locked up when I turned it over by hand , looks like it's be brave time .

Always the battery and always place the welding machine earth as close to the place your going to weld as possible , a polish guy burnt the wiring out on a machine because he earthed at the bottom when he was welding at the top when I worked maintenance . Might also be wise to disconnect anything with a memory .

What timed an automatic or thinks he’s going mad @Ed Poore.

Can someone please put my mind at ease one way or the other, as speaking to a someone has got me worrying . When I rebuilt the engine on the project it’s a 90 300tdi with auto fitted I lined up all the marks on the inside of the timing case and fitted the fuel pump timing pin for setting the timing belt and fitted the belt ( as there’s no place in the fly wheel for the pin ) turned engine over a few times all seems fine , this chaps saying it could be out and I think I’ve done it correct . Please stop me going mad . cheers Ian

Ashcroft Transmissions sells the shafts https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/diy-rebuild-kits/zf-rebuild-kits/ftc5090.html that's as much info as I can give at the minute , I can put a pic up of the rear housing that I've just bought when it comes if you would like ? cheers Ian

Cheers smallfry, new about the shaft but hadn’t heard about the rear housing. cheers Ian

Hi all, does anyone know if you need to change the rear output housing on a 4HP24 V8 box out of a P38 to accept a LT230 transfer box rather than the Borg Warner one ? Asking as I’ve seen one for sale. cheers Ian

That's not far from me about 20 mins drive , and I still won't be going for a look .

Yes that’s what I was thinking, they reckon the older engines won’t go above 250bhp because the turbo holds them back so possibly not at the end of there power . I’ll have a nose around the BMW forums but thought I’d ask here first as we have a lot of very knowledgeable people on here . They were never fitted to the Range Rover version of the engine cackshifter, which I have so that’s one less job to do.

Cheers all for the replies, mines one of the earlier m57’s with a cast block , aluminium head . Do you think studs or bolts would be better ? Tuning could go up to 250bhp , after Ross’s comment I’m not sure whether it’s worth spending £360 on studs , I have read that the cast blocks are more solid than the later Ali ones .

Cheers cackshifter , so studs are better all round, stronger and cause less wear and tear.

So you learned lot , what’s the benefit to using head studs over the factory bolts if any ? Do you have to replace them every time you remove the head as with factory bolts ? Reason I’m asking is I’m fitting an m57 to my 110 and head bolts need to be replaced when you remove the head , as I do to get the glow plugs drilled out , I will be upping the power on it from stock as well . Cheers Ian