daslandroverman

I like what's been done there, could almost consider doing similar on my 110. A towbar mounting could be a little more of a challenge though.

Anything's possible if you chuck enough time and money at it. Keeping the end result within the rules for modified vehicles might be a bit more of a challenge though. Engine wise, why go for a tiny diesel, seems some of us here have had success with 3 litre offerings from Mercedes and BMW, I'd be looking there and getting something with good potential for power/torque and usability. Add in that six cylinders have to be better than four, and you can only conclude you should do it. As for the body rot? Brush up on your sheet metalwork, and invest in a Plasma cutter.

The chap who got them made is 'Steve Harwood-Stamper' and posts on both the 101 forward control group and modified land rover 101's.

It seems the Rimmers one is a larger bore? I know which truck you mean with a P38 manifold on the right also, it did have the Rimmers system on it, although I believe it's no longer on there.

Depends what you're doing with the vehicle really? I can't see a rear sump being that hard to alter an adapter ring for (drill some extra holes in the appropriate places) and it probably helps make things look a bit neater? It hinges on how much money you have to spend I suppose.

Someone on one of the 101 facebook groups has had a fabricator make up a big bore set to near original pattern. They mate up to the original system,or the Rimmers stainless one. Chris Velardi (ChrisV is his usual handle) had a pair of them, thinks they're ideal. Apparently £350 will get you a pair.

Engine mountings about half way down this page. http://www.landroverworkshop.com/diagrams/engine/bmw-m52 lots of parts listed here; http://www.landroverworkshop.com/parts/bmw-m52 There used to be a site where you could download the entire M52 supplement, but it's either dead or I'm looking in the wrong places.

That got some bark to it. Top job.

The M52 petrol that was fitted in Defenders for South Africa utilised a lot of parts that would make dropping an M57 into a V8 chassis quite easy. As far as I'm aware they were based on the V8 chassis with engine mounting plates to suit the mounts, and the bellhousing etc was the same as the P38. Apparently all the stuff is in the Land Rover parts books (and Microcat) so if you can find a copy you could in theory have the entire setup bolt in using genuine parts. Not a bad way to do it really.

A set of Defender Steelies would probably Bring them in a bit, Disco ones definitely keep em within the bodywork, even with 235/85r16's. Mates 110 has a set on, and they would barely stick out if the plastic arches weren't there.

Got a set of 235/85r16 Enduro all terrains on my 110, not bad tyres for the money. If you're being a bit more frivolous then a set of BFG AT's or Cooper ST's would be my vote.

20 mpg isn't much to write home about? 29 mpg average in a 110 is much more encouraging though.

You've either got a long range tank, or managed an average of more than 40 mpg. Still not sure if I should be saving for an M57 or an OM606 to replace the Mazda SL35 in mine though. Rough sums put it somewhere near £2k to buy the car and all the other bits to get it fitted and running. I fancy an auto though, the conversion is one of the best things I've done with it so far. Out of interest, what transfer ratio are you running? It probably says somewhere in the thread but I can't remember.

Doing a little research into the conversion it seems the RallyRaid wiring is now over £400 by the time you've added the VAT.

Go for it? It's something different for the school run?

Sounds a cheaper way of doing it if nothing else. I fancy doing one in either (or both) my 110 and 101 project. However, the cheaper the better. Just need to research the rest of the bits I need to get it all together and working, manual or auto.

Out of interest, how easy is it to get the immobiliser removed from the ECU and to get it running like that?

Any more info on the adapter kit Dirty 90?

Not terrible actually. I assume the little boss bolts onto the crank/starter find and allows the V8 flex plate adapter etc to bolt on? Is it being too cheeky to enquire as to the thickness of the adapter ring and the boss? One assumes you'd bolt the torque converter to the flex plate through the starter hole?

How much does Mr Gazfab charge for the kit?, and will he do one for a manual, or is it auto only?

I paid £600 for mine, it's more than made its money over the few years i've had it.

I can't help but think we're saying pretty much the same thing here...

A P38 box could be used if you could get a bevel box that rotated the right way, these dont seem as common. Also worth remembering that the 101 drop arm faces backwards, and that turning it 180 degrees (as is needed with the Jeep boxes) will mean the steering linkages start moving in ways they werent designed. I recall someone did it with the Jeep box in the above fashion and found that on full left lock the drop arm and drag link would move far enough as it couldnt be pulled back into line without assistence. There are some Nissan boxes been made to work out in Australia, but I'm not sure on types or models.

I don't see it as a requirement to have an LT77 to run a Tdi, my point was more that the basic design dates back to the 1930's, and whilst it was probably over engineered for the application then -and with some development was made tougher to help it last better in the Land Rover- a Tdi is still putting a lot more through it than it was ever designed for. Yes it works, and if that's what you want to run in your vehicle then I'm not gonna knock you for it, but whatever way you look at it the engine is more than capable of overloading the box, and a reduced service life or increased likelyhood of failure shouldn't be a surprise if it happens. I'm not the sort to get up on a high horse about what you should or shouldn't be doing with your truck, just offering an opinion based on my knowledge and experience working in the trade over the years.

Worth mentioning that the original design for the gearbox dates back to the (pre war) Rover P3, intended to work with either the 1.6 four cylinder, or a 2.1 litre 5MB version of the six cylinder. Fair enough it was upgraded through its life, but by the time it ceased production in 1985 the basic design was over 40 years old. I do recall reading a bit more on the subject of strengthening Series boxes before, and seem to recall the main problem with them was that -generally- trying to upgrade the weak points caused probems elsewhere. The LT77 has reputation for being a carp box, and did have a few design flaws to start (plastic oil pump gears for example) but actually isn't an awful box considering. The main problem with them in Land Rovers was the output shaft /Input gear wear issues when connected to an LT230, something eventually solved by cross drilling the gear to allow some lubrication of the internal splines. A Tdi can be made to work with a Series box, as can V8's and a variety of other things, but no matter what your experience you can't argue that runnning a 4 pot diesel with twice the intended torque output through it wont have any effect on how long it lasts. Driving style can however make a difference to how long it will keep going.