daslandroverman

Best way to make a 4 pot work in a six cylinder chassis is do something to sit the engine further forward, there are those who have had some success with an LT77 conversion on the Series transfer box which leaves the gearbox on its original mounts but sets the engine further forward. The best end result I've seen used a Mazda SL35 rather than a 300 Tdi though. Anyways,unless the V8 is absolutely rubbished the above post regards keeping the V8 is a good point. Running a V8 on gas is another viable option.

300 Tdi? Needs more cylinders.

I see no particularly good reason to distrust ECU's, they're generally quite reliable hardware, and depending on which engine you pick can be made to work outside the original car without much effort. There are more than a few made the BMW M57 work outside the original cars, and a good lump in a 110 it would seem.

Let me know when you've bought it and we'll go from there?

Once again I find myself missing my old 4 door Rangie, and the Mazda powered 2 door my mum used to own. I keep looking at cheap ones on ebay, although I've now got to a point I reckon I've got my 110 for life, even when I'm beyond Mildly miffed off with it I keep falling in love with it again. Mental illness? Probably.

Mechanical six cylinder? Cummins 6BT with ZF S5-42 onto LT230 can give a reliable 200bhp and 300lb/ft without breaking a sweat. OM606 with a Dieselmeiken OM603 pump can give a reliable 200bhp and 400nm attatched to a Rover manual box, or ZF Auto. Probably similar costs by the time you've put everything together and assembled it in the car.

I have one in my 110 at present which I want to replace. Only problem is it breathes 3 litres of oil for 500 miles running. I reckon a set of rings would cure it, but as M&D quoted me about £680 for a set of rings and required gaskets, £980+VAT gets a full rebuild kit including pistons, liners etc. Still goes well enough that I know a Tdi wouldn't cut it.

Spare looks like an SD33, it's got the I line pump, the RD28 was a rotary.

I would suggest it's a V8 box, with a 200 Tdi radiator/intercooler setup. Not a great expert on these things, but I'd say it's an RD28, a 2.8 litre turbo engine. Worth a punt if the price is right.

Any idea what type? LD28? RD28? SD33? TD42? Generally hardy lumps, the TD42 compares well to the Toyota 4.2 six cylinder, and is arguably a better engine. Wanna swop it for a Mazda?

There's a guy on the Series 2 Club board (Simeon I think was his forum handle, maybe here too?) Who put an Mpi lump in a SWB on the standard Series box. Tidy job by all accounts, made an adapter ring using dimensions from a Prima conversion, and welded a 2.25 mating flange to the MPi backplate to make it narrower. Running the Mpi ecu etc, reckons it's as good as a 2.25 petrol, similar torque figures, but double the BHP so moves a lot quicker, and can crack 30 mpg. I wrote a feature on it for Classic Land Rover magazine sometime last year.

Surely a bigger or more efficient intercooler would be a better idea, or indeed give the current one a good clean out and see if that makes a difference. 50 mph sounds a rather high for the airflow through the thing to be making a difference. More surface area means cooler air?

Recall reading about a front disc conversion which involved fitting rangie/disco swivels etc with shortened shafts into a Series front axle with a small spacer between the swivel and axle to leave the axle the same width. Seemed a pretty neat solution to me, not sure of it was in the technical archives on here or elsewhere. Would be a sensible option and uses standard parts aside the spacer and half shafts, which I believe were made by cutting and welding standard rangie ones.

Could you be persuaded to show us the rally raid loom in enough detail thay someone who was keen enough could have a go at making one from the BMW loom?

How's things going with this? Any more sorted?

Check the coil/distributor wiring is all the right way round (rpm pickup on the negative) and the wiring on the ignition module is also the right way or it won't make sparks. The other check worth doing is making sure your ignition live is also present whilst cranking, seen a couple of people caught out by that one before.

Pump running for a few seconds to.prime the system is normal. If the ecu doesn't get an rpm signal (white wore with a black trace that goes to the nearside of the engine bay from memory) then it won't fire the injectors. No spark if you're running the original dizzy could be as simple as the wiring is the wrong way round, but I know little of megajolt so can't help there.

4 wires and no rubbish with chokes or float chambers. How much simpler could it get?

The girlfriends Series 3 has a fairly healthy 2.5 in it, goes very well for what it is. It's in my plan to fit the 300 Tdi Bosch pump on it when I get round to changing the timing belt. I don't expect miracles, but hoping for better starting (it's already good compared to some) and perhaps a bit more go about it, as frankly the CAV pumps are carp.

Standard 14CUX efi setup is cheap enough, works well and nice and easy to install.

Have a chat with Mark Adams (same advice I gave Andrew) and see what he might advise. I've talked to him after advice in the past and found him to be very knowledgeable and helpful on the subject matter with zero sales pressure.

I believe the Thor manifold will work with the 14CUX ECU and wiring. If you could drop a 4.6 in there with a distributor or Possibly coil packs and a megajolt then run it on an appropriately mapped 14CUX ECU it would all work well and be a nice simple system without need for extra diagnostic tools or conmectors etc added.

I had a chat with him about it a few weeks back. I think we got sorted about what had been done and the best way forward. I recall the Thor manifold being a bit wider, but don't see it being a major issue with modding the linkage similarly to the 14CUX setup as the sideways movement is no more than about 3 inches total. It could be a bit more of a headache if you want to run distributorless ignition and leave the coil packs at the back of the plenum, mostly as you'd need to make more of a mod to the back of the engine cover for clearance. You've probably mentioned it before on one of the many fora, but what control system are you going to use for it? Locating everything under the covers could be a bit more fun depending on what else needs to go in.

The 2 I've converted to 14CUX efi both had the original linkage altered to go over the top. The first one I managed to get right just heating and bending the tube, the second was bent into its new shape, but needed a short extension (an inch or two) and a little nodding to the back of the engine cover and the small panel between the engine and gearbox covers. Fortunately, you know the second truck and it's owner, and he'll no doubt be happy to supply a few photos of how it was put together.

They will run without a vehicle speed sensor (I had 2 without) but it was usually a little box in the middle of the speedo cable or a transducer in the speedo drive on the box, which being a Serp engine disco it likely was as the speedo would have been electronic.