daslandroverman

True, but the piston sizes aren't that far different between the two. I've had both types in bits many times over the years.

We've had a couple of threads on the subject, but I thought I might as well start my own, rather than tag onto anyone else's. Those of us who read Classic Land Rover magazine may recognise my other half's Series III, which was a feature vehicle in the December 2015 issue. Part of the writeup on it mentions the gearbox that was assembled from a couple of others to make one good one about 6 years ago. All things considered it's done well for the 20,000 miles or so it's covered in that time, but having started making a bloody awful noise whilst driving along -eventually deduced to be layshaft bearings- it needed something doing with it. Rebuilding a series box was an option, but the cost of doing a proper job balanced against using the short bellhousing LT77 and 1.222 ratio LT230 I had 'in stock', along with the need to have the thing back on the road fairly quickly saw the decision to go for a 5 speed box. The aim for the end result is to run permanent four wheel drive, and keep the separate levers for the transfer box as the Mrs like em. So, decision made the required bits were pulled out of the way. And with a little swearing etc, it all came out, and ended up looking like this, about this time it started getting dark, so I went into the garage to do some prep work on the box. Discovery release arm, recycled, and reinforced with a bit of steel welded over the pivot piece. Back to this afternoon (it was a bit wet for me to want to go out and play first thing) and started by scalloping out the bellhousing crossmember to allow the front prop some clearance. It needs a bit more widening, and will be getting checked with a propshaft in place before I weld in a closing plate. Hoofed the box in... Followed by the transfer box so I could get on with making the mounting brackets. The idea was to use the standard Series gearbox mounts on the chassis, and adapt the gearbox mounts to suit, whilst I also had a cunning plan for the levers. A bit of Cardboard Aided Design saw some rough patterns... Then a bit of 6mm steel (previously liberated from a skip, I mean who throws good steel like that away?) received some attention from a marker pen and the plasma cutter. Yes I know the bolt holes to mount them to the gearbox are rough as, but first off, I currently only have a battery drill (which would make the job take forever) and dont have a 13mm bit to hand. For these reasons I decided to blow them out with the Plasma instead. A bit of welding and a couple of gussets added to the N/S mounting to give it a bit more strength. After that I gave up for the day as it got dark. Tomorrows jobs (weather permitting) will see me make some propshafts, finish the bellhousing crossmember, then put the box back in with the clutch in there.

I've previously had issues with bleeding Disco 2 callipers, carp pedal even when you've run gallons of fluid through. In my case the problem was solved by removing the callipers and bleeding them with the nipple pointing upwards. Big gob of air out of the bleed nipples that were previously giving clean fluid, and the pedal came up well. I don't think there's much difference in sizing between the D1 and D2 master cylinders, and I would also suggest that the callipers on the D2 require less fluid to shift as they've got half the number of pistons that you'd find on a D1

You've not really picked the best way to do the job and have it all seal when it's reassembled. It's enough of a pain when the engine is out and sitting on its nose. From what I remember, with the bolts out of the top retainer, a little percussive motion with a soft hammer should see it start moving. Proper cork T seals for the rear main bearing cap are a good idea too.

No expert in these matters, but I do believe that to export a vehicle from SA it needs to be roadworthy and have a current 'roadworthy' certificate, I forget the term the SA authorities use. There's a chap on the 900club.org board has exported a few for people, including sending cars to the USA.

Here's some cut and paste of the 101 club forum posts, basically the details of how it was fitted up, and the relevant pictures. I fitted a Sherpa box to mine to avoid cutting up the chassis, I just welded and fabricated a mounting plate to the chassis and used the existing drop arm holes to make it simpler. I welded a mounting plate over the top of the original and completely cut away the outrigger before cutting, shaping and welding it to shape before bolting it back on. I did this so I could remove the box easily without damaging the frame or chassis. I used a defender drop arm - with splines that matched the output shaft diameter of the box which was convenient. The 101 steering box had a different shaft diameter. The defender drop arm was then taken to a black smith where it was heated up and beaten to lengthen it to the correct length so that full lock each way can be achieved. It also had the twist put in at the small end for the drag link. It was reheated and tempered two or three times to make the drop arm fit exactly after trial and error as the original one did. The " small end" was re cut with a tapered reamer to fit the drag link ball joint. Refurbished boxes are available over here, as are used examples from various breakers. I've previously sent parts out down under for people, and happy to do it again if you were interested in an LDV box.

Cork ones soaked in oil tend to work better.

HarryBackhouse on the 101 club forum has done an LDV based conversion recently. The box attaches to the chassis without much fuss, whilst he's had a 300 Tdi Disco drop arm (the one that fits a standard track rod end) forged into the shape of the standard 101 item and reamed out the tapered end to suit the larger 101 link ends. Bit more of a write up and pictures here: http://www.101club.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9196 Some people don't seem to like how he's modified the arm, I'm of the opinion that if it was done with some care it wouldn't be a problem.

But would they have coughed up refunds had nobody complained? They're not the only ones that had a go at making a quick buck though... http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/uk-news/storm-desmond-floods-estate-agent-6977178

Seen to many of those woth a freelander just dropped on top of the Disco chassis and labelled as a 'Monster truck' which looks bloody awful, like that one. If I was going to build one I'd make the effort to channel the body into the chassis so the sills were at the same level the disco ones would have been, and wheels sat in the arches properly. can't help but think the end result would be tidier, and more aesthetically pleasing.

You think correctly.

Neither the Kankku company (nor the attached garage Windermere Auto Centre) are particularly well thought of by local residents, nor is the man in charge of it all. As none of their vehicles carry local authority licence plates for their use as taxis I would lean toward their actions being 'less than charitable', especially with as many other people in the region offering time, skills and equipment to help those affected and asking nothing in return. Transporting wedding guests (family who don't want to miss out or ruin the couples special day) when your service is the only one available and charging heavily for it does seem a little suspect to me. Yes they've offered an 'off road recovery service' chargeable at a base rate of £80+VAT for a number of years, but I would argue that transporting people along a flooded road does not fall under that definition.

Do these links class as 'barn finds'

I have a mate with the PTO overload clutch wound up some, and a repaired and reinforced bumper after the winch started to pull itself out of the front of the bumper...

I loved my old CSW one, bought it with an LT77 and Edelbrock carbed 3.9 in there, went well enough but drank a lot of fuel. Went even better and used less fuel when I dumped the carb in favour of hotwire Efi. It was E90 NKV.

I would think you better spending your money with Rob at LR Optional Equipment. This Dutch guy produces some shiny looking stuff, but it's often an amalgamation of several different models. Detail differences, but things like the wrong shear pins being fitted don't inspire confidence. One thing I can say for Rob is that his knowledge and quality of work is second to none, which his stocks of spares and core units is larger than any other outside of the original manufacturers when they were mainstream fitments.

MkII hydraulic all day every day.

Assuming the vacuum stop requires a constant vacuum to allow the engine to run I'd suggest something like an LPG solenoid (for example ebay item #321448286723) wired through a 5 pin relay fed through a supply on stage 1 of the ignition switch with the trigger off the run/crank feed. Get the wiring right and it should leave the solenoid open with the key in position 1, and leave it closed when in the run crank position, and with the ignition off.

You have a PM auld lad...

Solidworks drawing you say? Keep talking sir...

There's a guy putting one in a 101 that has the SMT adapter kit for the manual box. Seems to be of the opinion it's spot on.

But if you're following the Esarco pattern then surely you go straight for an 8x8?

The big question is do you want coil or leaf suspension? Twin steering axles are doable, but add a bit more complication to the setup. Do you want to have load sharing rear axles? Making the springs too hard at the back will make something bloody awful to drive. The other big consideration is aesthetics, getting the axle spacing right, the arches over the rear axles, body style, even wheel and tyre choice to get right. If I was going to do it myself, I'd consider a 100" gap between the front two axles and style it from there. Get any of that wrong and it will look awful, and you could well find yourself with something hideous, and indeed useless, something like the 'Monster Tuning' 8x8 Defender, which can only be described as an abortion. All power too you for wanting to have a go, and I'll watch with interest as to how it develops, and maybe even offer considered opinion.

There are some who call me... Dave. Dave Marsh is my usual title on facebooks.

That would be Ross who I had half a conversation with about it on facebooks.Forums names confuse stuff.