Jump to content

Retroanaconda

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,498
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    97

Everything posted by Retroanaconda

  1. It increases the boost at lower revs which will add stress, though probably not much to be fair. It also says you need to tweak the FIP to get the most out of it, which I have no interest in doing. Think this is the standard one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Melett-UK-Turbo-CHRA-LAND-ROVER-90-Defender-Discovery-200TDI-T2-465171-5-/391482765755 Or, cheaper direct: https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/webshop/prod_3501596-LANDROVER-200-Tdi-25D-Garrett-TB02-TB0243-Turbocharger-CHRA-Cartridge-4438540033-Turbo-Core-465171-4651750001.html
  2. Thanks. I’ll see what the tool place has with regard to pliers for the circlip. I tried to make a tool but wasn’t able to compress it enough. I’ll just be putting a standard core in, never had any issue with lack of performance and don’t think it would do the engine any favours given the mileage. But the spec on those ones look good, will see if they do standard ones.
  3. In advance of doing the head on my 90 when I do the chassis swap in a month or so’s time, and with the old thing on 320k, I want to strip down the turbo off the spare engine and rebuild it. I intend to use a CHRA cartridge assembly to achieve this and then I can put a fresh turbo back onto the engine as it goes back together, along with a set of refurbished injectors. The spare turbo itself actually seems in pretty good nick, impellers spin smoothly with minimal play, but at least this way I’ll know it’s good for a while. I got the manifold off and the turbo separated from it (after splitting off one nut which defeated me), and set about stripping the turbo itself down. The wastegate actuator is just attached with two small M6 screws and comes off easily, the biggest problem I expected to find was with the four M8 screws which clamp the hot side of the turbo onto the centre CHRA assembly. The location of these means you can only use a spanner so one must be careful not to round them off. However judicious application of heat to the heads followed by a spray of penetrating oil did the trick and they all cracked off okay. I couldn’t get the CHRA and the cast ‘snail’ separated, they’ve been together for many years and don’t want to come apart. With the alloy ‘cold’ housing still attached I didn’t want to get too keen with the hammer. However I am now defeated by the circlip which holds the alloy cold side housing on, my circlip pliers are too small and won’t even look at it. So work halted until I can get some bigger ones! Anyone got any tips on how to get the hot side apart other than hammers? Anything I should look out for once I get it stripped? Any recommendations for CHRA units? Thanks! 🙂
  4. Any pics of the wear in the bores? I'll be taking the head off mine when I do the chassis swap and it would be good to know what I'm looking for as I've never had it apart to that extent.
  5. You can still buy new Adwest ones - albeit you now have to do so through Britpart. I suspect many 'reconditioned' ones are no more than an old one with a new seal kit and a coat of spraypaint.
  6. Also make sure there is no oil/grease contamination of the brakes on one side, this will cause a reduction of brake effort on that side and the vehicle will pull the other way due to the imbalance.
  7. Have you had head gasket failures and/or overheating? Personally I would refit the shroud and viscous fan. You'll struggle to match that for cooling effect and efficiency, which is why Land Rover fitted it in the first place.
  8. Certainly, please do. I've got genuine one on my 200Tdi all round and I can't say I've ever had a problem with vibrations once the engine's warmed up. The first 50 miles or so they are a bit rougher but after that they seem to 'settle' quite nicely. But it would be useful to see what else is out there. In time my 110 will be using these ANR1808 mounts on the front for the engine with the soft 300Tdi-on type on the back for the gearboxes, so they may be useful there in keeping things in check.
  9. This is what I have both sides: https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/95663/5497/front_floor_mat_rh_lt77_def Don't remember it being that expensive, but it was 10 years ago.
  10. Indeed, I have the Land Rover mats in mine and they work well. Although I've nearly worn a hole through the drivers side one. They're thick rubber with a foam backing, provide a good bit of soundproofing in conjunction with the factory tunnel underlay and carpet pieces.
  11. All the alloys are tubeless so that’s not necessarily an indication. I’ve used a 2005 110 which had tubed steel wheels on, and a 2010 which had tubeless steels. So somewhere between there I guess?
  12. Camping with a car is not wild camping under the Scottish Outdoor Access Code, however done with respect it’s tolerated in many places. As ever it’s the minority that spoil it, during the summer our local team collects dozens of bags of rubbish from Glen Orchy each Monday morning. Regular fire damage, people felling trees to burn etc. - just mindless idiots with no respect for property. Glen Etive suffers much the same - it’s the next glen up the road after all. I’ll try and find out the dates for the bridge launch, second abutment got poured today apparently (if the snow let up) so should be soon. If not I’ll definitely try and get some pics.
  13. It’s a forestry road which already links through the forest on the north side of the glen up to Bridge of Orchy. There was an existing Bailey bridge in place which had a 3t weight limit - the new one will be 44t and so will allow timber traffic from the south side of the glen to get to the A82 without using the B8074. Glen Orchy is to be fairly busy over the next few years. The new bridge is going to be ‘launched’ across once the second abutment is done, hopefully I’ll be able to get out and see it. This was the old Bailey - it’s some span!
  14. It’s a nice spot, unfortunately in the summer it’s now full of neds from Glasgow who have been punted up from Loch Lomond by the camping ban. Did you see the new bridge being built at the Allt Broighleachan car park by the falls?
  15. In the back of my 90 I have sheet of heavy gauge rubber which does a fairly good job. It's around 1/2" thick - I think it came from a conveyor on a rock crusher.
  16. In fact this article from March 2018 LRO appears to imply that CWK 16Y was indeed a launch fleet car: https://www.pressreader.com/uk/lro-uk/20180301/284094911913091 Also worth reading this: https://www.lrukforums.com/threads/83-110-county-rebuild.23977/
  17. Some interesting reading here: https://www.lro.com/reviews/featured-vehicles/1512/survival-of-the-rarest
  18. I didn’t do 15 miles, it was a few miles to the exit off the motorway and then a few miles again at 30mph to see what was what. All the same I think the best plan of action is to not continue at all in these situations! I’ve a spare 200Tdi in the shed so I will whip the head off that and, assuming it's in reasonable nick, get set up to do a preventative head gasket swap in the near future just in case. Won’t do any harm given it’s on 318k now and it’s not been done in at least the ~180k I’ve put on it.
  19. Indeed, thanks guys. Spare belt obtained and stashed in the car, where it would have been last night had I not used it and forgotten to replenish. Completed the 40 miles into town and back with no worries, checked everything a few times and all seems well. No excess pressure, no mayo in the oil, no coolant loss. 150 miles back up to work tomorrow evening so that’ll be the bigger test.
  20. So a month on and another problem! I could use some thoughts on the latest issue. Driving home last night the alternator/waterpump belt failed on the motorway. I was only a few miles from my exit so slowed down and came off the motorway. Once off I confirmed the diagnosis as a failed belt and attempted to fashion a temporary belt from a phono cable but with no success. Given how cold it was (2 degrees at best) thought I’ll see how it gets on taking it easy for a few miles as I was only 15 miles from home. Alas upon stopping to check I found that the radiator hoses were quite hard and there was a lot of pressure in the cooling system - I released the pressure and lots of gurgling happened at the top hose and the level in the expansion tank returned to normal. At this point I feared the worst and called the AA - two very cold hours later it got put on a truck and dropped off home. This morning I replaced the belt and ran the engine up to temperature to try and confirm the diagnosis. I got it warm enough to get the thermostat open and strangely there seems to be no pressurisation of the cooling system at all, other than the normal slight hiss from the cap on removal due to it being warm. Engine doesn’t overheat on the gauge (though that doesn’t mean much) and everything seems perfectly normal. No bubbles or smell of combustion gases in the header tank either. I’ll take it on a longer run into town and back and see how it does then - it may be that the failure is only obvious when it’s hotter than I’m able to get it on the local roads. My assumption last night was that I had cooked the head and either the gasket had gone or the head had warped/cracked which was what was pressurising the cooling system. However now that I am unable to replicate it this morning it’s making me wonder if the over-pressurisation I saw last night could have just been due to it getting hotter than normal due to lack of waterpump circulation?
  21. Colour is not always an indication of type - but blue tends to be the old Ethylene glycol stuff and pink tends to be the newer OAT stuff. Often 1998 is seen as the cut-off year between them but of course it varies with engine. The 200Tdi just needs the older type, go into the motor factors and ask for a 5l bottle of ethylene glycol based coolant and you'll be fine. The flush the system well with water to ensure you only have one type in.
  22. Absolutely, pop a thread up in International or Tools and Fabrication.
  23. Take the green speed sensor off your old transfer box and fit it to the new one. They're a different design and not directly compatible.
  24. Welcome Bob. I moved your thread into the International Forum which is more suited to general Land Rover chat. We'd certainly be interested to follow your V8 project
  25. Only ones worth bothering with in my experience are Land Rover ones I’m afraid.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy