roybatty666

If the internal face of the drum was heavily warn it would be a greater pitch circle diameter than the new brake shoes and would result in the pads being warn out from the center. New drums and pads at the same time would cure it

Have a change of shoes? I don't mean change them on and off when your off roading but when its time for home, bin the muddy boots in the back, give the pedals a quick wipe and pop on your clean dry shoes.

I have a 1990 90 van back (was a td now 200tdi) and it takes around 50 litres

I was thinking about this the other day, would it not be possible to rig a modified bearing carrier with a line going up to an external grease nipple mounted on the bell housing so you could grease the bearing regularly? the hose would need to have a little slack in it to allow for the lateral movement of the bearing and carrier when the clutch is depressed. On the carrier it could be the opposite side to the clutch arm and allow the grease to get pushed into the bearing from behind. You may have guessed my bearing is a noisy rattly ring of carp as well but I have a new clutch and box to fit so it will get done then.

I used these chaps for my stainless door bolts (they do zinc /steel to) they do bolt kits like this and list the equivalent LR part numbers and diagrams They are friendly and deliver quickly and get the thumbs up from me Steve

without meaning to be rude what chance has a SVX90 got of seeing real offroad use? If the window bar is just for looks then it will be fine but as has been said for proper protection it needs to be part of a full cage.

I spied them yesterday along with the galvanised sills they sell must resist.......

with my holey footwells still to deal with I won't worry to much about how water tight the floor is

I have just got a 130 clutch for mine and a nice aluminium rackway bearing carrier lots of info here clicky

my props are new and I have loads of prop bolts due to over ordering lol I did think about mounts and judging by the other perished rubber parts I previously replaced on the car I half expect them to fall apart on removal! I have some bog standard black sealant to hand, does itneed to be high temp as although the box gets hot it doesn't get that hot. Also does anyone know the part number for the transfer box input shaft seal as I must be blind as I cam't find one online anywhere

Cheers chaps, I have a torque wrench so will torque the bolts to avoid stripping the threads Les I have studdied your threads on clutch / gearbox changes in preperation, a big personel thanks for the time you put in these guides, you have already helped me do my hubs, swivels, diffs, suspension, steering and soon new gearbox and clutch. hopefuly I will get to bump into you in person one day so I can thank you in person and buy you a drink or 10 Same goes for mr Western and several others on here, stars the lot of you </gay mode>

I have allways like the look of pitbull rockers for some reason, not sure what cop they are in the british mud as they are meant for rock crawling but they look awsome. The fact that they cost 4p in the states and million pounds over here annoys me a bit The other thing to consider is the need for bead locks when you air your tyres down as I believe (I am sure some one with some real world experience will correct me if I'm wrong) the Boggers especially need a reasonably low pressure to get good lateral grip and you don't want to be pulling them off your rim.

What will you be using them for as I have been nosing around a similar set up although on 10" rims and from everything I have read the Creepys are not in the same league as the ETs and Boggers. Whilst better than a BFG MT they are not on par with the other more extreme patterns and do seem to be more of a cost effective large tyre choice. Just something to think about to maybe narrow your decision down, oh and there is (was?) a set of creepys on rims for sale on ebay if you have a look

hmm thinks back to having to take a front prop off the back axle when he bought the car The previous owner was clearly not a cowboy lol

I had this on my range rover and it was slack in my steering box which was easily adjusted. On my Defender I had it and it was partially due to really warn radius arm and panhard bushes, I replaced these which cured it, then swapped the front axle ends to go to 24 spline and the second hand swivel pins were a touch warn so I regained the wobble and keep meaning to do my swivel shims to sort it out. From my experience i find the following apply A true steering shake at speed is normal swivel preloads A shake but with wandering steering (constant correction on straight roads etc) is normally steering box play A shake but with wandering steering (constant correction on straight roads etc) and corner clonking or correction of steering when you come off the throttle is normally radius / panhard rod bushes The steering damper does nothing other than mask problems it will not cause a problem, if correctly set up a car shouldn't even need one imho With all the steering and suspension elements any one or combination of elements can give you the shakes so it is best to try and eliminate the easiest things first otherwise you end up replacing everything and it ends up being the last thing

must learn to read threads properly

Cool, I am not keen to change anything I don't have to, it is just my luck that when ever I do anything an assosiated part will allways fall to pieces when removing it to get to the part I want to replace. Hence I try and get replacement bolts for every job I do as you always end up cutting one off Are the bolts securing the transferbox and gearbox prone to shearing?

Cheers chap, that gives me an idea of the number spire and plastic nut thingies to get. I will watch the old slave cyclinder. Can I get away with just taking the floor, tunnel and just the center and driver side seat panels out to do it or does the battery box need to come out to?

My hinges were really shot and I only changed the pins and brass balls and it took all the noise and slack out without issue. The pins can be found cheap as chips on ebay

Being that my luck when working on my Landy is far from good I want to ensure I have every conceivable part at my disposal before I start my clutch and gearbox change. My clutch is not slipping but not that healthy and I am in real danger of shearing hair like splines I have left on my output shaft So far purchased 130 Valeo friction plate 130 Valeo Clutch cover Genuine Land Rover release bearing (binned the free britpart one I got witht he clutch) Rackway billet aluminium bearing carrier Clutch arm (need to weld something over the pivot point) to purchase this month lt77 gearbox cross drilled input gear input gear bearings transfer box input shaft seal As I will be pulling the floor and tunnel up (and hopefully replacing the foot wells as I have had the repair panels knocking about for ages) I am in doubt of the reusability of the floor bolts etc, do these go into captive nuts? or are they a nut and bolt affair? What part numbers are these or are they general bolts/screws? My Defender 200tdi engine has only 40k on it and is not losing any oil through the bell housing breather so the rear crankshaft seal appears to be fine. Is it woth replacing the gearbox mounts? I have had no issues with the clutch hydraulics so am tempted to leave them alone or is it worth fitting a new slave cylinder? I am hoping it will go relatively smoothly as the Transfer box is a recon unit (looks like they didn't address the gearbox shaft issue when they did it) and I have a rather useful transmission jack so hoping that at least will come off easily, the engine was changed only 4k miles ago so again I am hoping for relatively hassle free bolts (hmmm) So what can go wrong and what should I buy in "just in case"? Cheers chaps

If there is a women involved get a Disco, they don't appretiate the special Defender tolarances in the the door gaps and the random noises seem to make the thing a wheel is about to come off

IMHO steering dampers only mask issues not solve them, there should be no real shakes etc without a damper fitted at all. I would (and have myself) change all your radius and panhard rod bushes for piece of mind (proper ones not poly but that is another debate) as I had naff radius arm bushes that was causing my front axle to jump about. I need to do the swivel preload on mine as I get the same shakes even with a brand new box, bushes, springs and dampers and know my swivels are a bit loose. Steering/suspension shakes are great fun to find!

Indeed they don't as they have the crossdrilled output gear but I didn't know you had a r380 Didn't the 300tdi/r380 equiped landies come with the 24spline one piece shaft and flanges or was there a period that they had the seperate ones?

Are you sure it is your shaft /flanges? from my experience it is normally the g-box/output gear spline wear that causes the common transmision clonk.

you can as mine came with a front one on the back But it will be fully compressed when in situ so any further compresion of the rear suspension puts massive load on your t-box and rear joints as the prop becomes too long