cackshifter

I'd also recommend the Phillips X-treme Power 80% bulbs, going for about £16 a pair on ebay. They made a huge improvement over standard H4 bulbs in Wipac Quadoptic headlights (but prefer Cibie H180), and did very well in the AutoExpress tests against Osram. I'd avoid the temptation to throw a lot of light just in front of your vehicle on main beam too as it spoils your distance vision. Nigel

When you find out where it is I'd appreciate knowing too, as it's reasonably close to me too - though I think a real hard rinse under mine would do serious damage. Nigel

Well it sounds like the news on these is pretty good, as generally it has to be cheaper than replacing the part (ignoring the benefit to the planet etc) but it might also even improve on the original as I have had parts (albeit for Minis) in the past with fairly rough surfaces and ended up polishing them before fitting.. As steve200tdi said, the problem is knowing the size to get before stripping, so maybe it would be good if we recorded them. Knowing this I'll definitely run a vernier over things as I come across them. Nigel

I have a 110 CSW with a rear but not a front ARB and one of the links broke at the rear. It was rubbing a brake pipe, so I removed it while I got new parts. I have to say its absence doesn't seem to make a huge difference (its not very thick, the one on my Fiat Punto is thicker) but perhaps I have been a little more cautious in my driving without it. I think if you had anything stiffer than standard in the way of rear springs you'd be better off without, unless you want to drive fast on tarmac. I'd say try it without, but be prepared for a fight getting it off. The rubbers are very cheap, so if you like it but just need new rubbers I'd say go on and change them. Nigel

I've heard the 110 Utilities (ie like a CSW but with a solid bit at the back, rather than rattly slding windows) now qualify as commercial. Can anyone confirm that? Nigel

I too have a leaky steering box... Not a bad idea at all to try one there. In the past I have always tried to repolish things when changing seals, as sometimes the old surface is very rough. Or even to not quite insert the seal fully so it bears on a new bit of shaft. It must help slightly too to increase the diameter it's trying to seal . Even on new items the sealing surfce can be quite rough so anything you can do to reduce the roughness must help seal life (and lets face it we need all the help we can get). Nigel.

Thanks for the response, that does generally sound like a good idea then. Was it difficult to put on? Nigel

Hi, Just wondered if anyone had ever tried using Speedi-sleeves to recover worn sealing surfaces. They're a very thin hardened and well finished wear sleeve that you drive over a worn seal surface to create a new one without having to replace the item being sealed, or needind to get a different seal. SKF (Chicago Rawhide) make them so they can't be too bad. I have a worn diff flange and worn tfr box flange, and before shelling out for new wondered about trying these. They even do especially hardened versions for abrasive conditions. See http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home/product...p;newlink=4_5_4 Regards Nigel

Allegedly Partco sell it. Alternatively Morris lubricants do an equivalent (Lodexol MTF) which you can order internetly, rather more competitively priced than Difflock's. See http://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/scripts/...mp;idProduct=67. Regards Nigel

The stuff coming out was way more viscous than what went back in, and sort of lumpy - it took ages to drain. I think one or both of the inner seals Les mentioned has deceased, and the grease has gone exploring. I like the tip about putting in engine oil to rinse the one shot grease out though. I have to put new front discs on shortly, so at that point I think I might as well pay a visit to the swivels. Nigel

I have a question; the other day I changed the oil in my front axle and what came out resembled black school custard. I'm assuming this is the axle trying to tell me it's full of swivel grease as well as EP90 - I can't think what else it can be. I reflled the axle, but I'm thinking I have to tackle at least one hub.Is there any trick to tell which hub is the culprit, or does one just do both? For instance, if you have the one shot grease, should it be visible at the filler or does it just disappear into the depths? Nigel

I'd also really recommend a q/c toolpost. Even if you basically only use one tool, it makes setting or adjusting centre height a doddle. I have a Chinese one in the style of Dorian but it seems really good. If I have something really heavy to do I just put the original toolpost on. Nigel

I too have had it come from the handbrake - mine was caused by something (I think rust) inside the drum. I have to go down a long hill off-road every day, so I just held it back on the handbrake down there a couple of times and it cleared, but when you first hear it you wonder. It disappeared in my case if you just pull the handbrake on a little - must just brush it initially. Nigel

Thanks for that - Armed with that info I'll have another look, and pick the one that works - I think its going to be a struggle either way. I think I need to park it in a lake of Plusgas for a week. Cheers Nigel

Yes, it's a 97 300tdi CSW. Doesn't seem to be down at the back, so I suppose it's working. The strut itself looks ancient. Is it easy to switch to a normal joint?

Get it good and hot if you can before trying to wind it out. Nigel

Just letting you know, all who suggested u/js were spot on. The one on the front of the transfer box was well shot, and the one on the diff was also past its best before. Changed them, and it's a different animal. Many thanks for help.

Hi, Having had a look (well quite a few) underneath my 110 I see it has the self-levelling strut. So far we've managed to ignore each other. However the weight plate on the pedal box gives a gvw of 3050 kg, whereas I thought with self levelling it should read 2950. Could it have been fitted after manufacture? Is there any easy way of telling? Is self levelling a Good Thing or should I be considering its retirement? I was thnking I might fit new springs so presumably it would influence choice of those. I've no idea whether it's actually doing anything as I don't really carry much weight. Nigel

I think Britpart might do one. (Ok, Ok I know). They sell a kit including a sprung centre clutch plate Try their part no. DA2357HD or see: http://www.britpart.com/AccessoryCategory....CategoryRef=275

I notice you too have the signature 'brake fluid was here' blistering.... Nigel

Ok, well ordered 4 new u/j s today. However I thought I'd maybe buy some time by greasing again, so got under just now & swung on front prop, and managed to get perceptible movement in the front propshaft transfer box joint. So that is definitely past its best before, and has to be prime candidate for the cheeping. Fingers crossed now it lasts till the others arrive. Many thanks for your help. Nigel

Sorry about previous post - a click too far. I tried greasing but it has made no difference but that did initially make me think it could be something else. I think it's coming from the front of the front propshaft as I happened to be beside it as my daughter (cheepily) drove it in last night, and it definitely seemed to be coming from the front. I shall be ordering something for the weekend! I think the sliding section on the rear has lost a nipple; there is just a hole, so that is something else as well. Thanks all for comments. Nigel

Well that sounds like a consensus to me. Thank you all for your input. I'd kind of thought judging from the speed and location of it, that was was what it had to be. And frankly they are not that expensive to do, so if it turns out to be something else it's not a disaster, and it will eliminate it from my enquiries. So...I think I'd better order some pronto. Is there anything I should do to the sliding joints other than clean & grease? The gaiters seem to be in good shape, but only 1 prop has a grease nipple for the sliding joint. Nigel

Hi, I have a 97 300tdi CSW, which has suddenly started making a sort of intermittent sqeaking cheeping noise. The frequency (but not the pitch) of cheeps seem to increase in line with increase in road speed, but are too fast for once per tyre revolution. They happen mostly when turning, especially to the right, and when using the engine hard, especially in lower gears. You can put the gearlever into neutral or dip the clutch and coast and the cheeping immediately stops. You can rev the engine in neutral, even while using the steering and there is no cheeping. If you go over a bump it can cause a bout of it for a moment or two, especially if turning right if it happens to be quiet at that moment. My thoughts were probably something happening at propshaft speed. I have tried the handbrake while going and it makes no difference, neither starting nor stopping cheeps. I've tried greasing the propshafts and it has made no difference (except the props must feel better). I've changed the fan belt (noticed while the belt was off that the water pump felt a little sticky, and had a sort of cogging feel to it, but everything else felt very free and smooth). The only other relevant piece of info is that I had to fit a new clutch slave cylinder recently, which didn't go totally smoothly as the slave was fitted directly to the end of the hose, which unfortunately was 180 deg out of position for mounting the slave so that the bleed nipple was underneath rather than on top. I ended up having to bleed it off the clutch, holding the piston in with mole grips, then turn it over and bolt it on. Once I can loosen the other end of the hose I'll sort it out, but I'm waiting on Mr Plusgas to do his work. I thought it might be steering, eg the pump, but it doesn't often happen when turning left, and having tried going from lock to lock while parked, that doesn't make it do it either. As far as one can tell above the general roar and clatter of Defender ambience, it's coming from left of centre, towards maybe under the front passenger seat, but I might well be mistaken about that. Anyone got any suggestions as to what it might be? It does seem to be gradually getting worse, but I'd sooner nip it in the bud.

Thank you for that. That gives me more options for getting hold of one. Nigel