cackshifter

Hi all, I have to face up to removing and replacing the sump on my 300tdi, as it's dripping enough oil from the back to be annoying, and I don't think it's coming out of the flywheel housing. So, I thought I'd give it a clean out, obviously, while it was off. Are there any other things that I really ought to do while it's off, like replace the O ring on the oil pickup? I have had a few flickers from the oil light on tickover when the oil is very hot, eg after a motorway run with a trailer, and was wondering whether I should look at bearings, oil pump etc? I know the oil pressure switches can give trouble so that's the prime suspect for the flicker as generally everything is OK, no knocking etc. It's done 95k. I'm torn between checking stuff and if it aint broke don't fix it. Does anything in this area give trouble? Nigel

Ralph, thanks for the words of encouragement. Regards Nigel

Hi, I've removed the EGR from my 300tdi, and just recently fitted a bigger intercooler. While getting at the fuel adjustment under the diaphragm on top of the fuel pump I've realised that the potentiometer that helped control the EGR is still present and moreover getting in the way. Does anyone know any reason I might want to leave it in situ, or can I safely remove it (it just plugs into the harness). Obviously there are also weight savings to be had.. Nigel

Every cloud... Maybe an excuse to get a VNT, though you may need more nappies if you do. Nigel

Or these chaps - sold me stuff to convert a lathe to poly vee drive, can get taperlock bushes, bearings, pulleys belts etc and are dead helpful chaps http://www.pts-oldham.co.uk/ Nigel

Get it well hot (it's supposed to get hot after all isn't it) then a really good pair of molegrips. I recommend CK ones which seem to be a lot better than Vice Grips or the genuine moles. Oh BTW don't bother spraying it with WD40. Nigel

I've got one with just a single pit in it, about 3mm across. Is it possible to repair, eg fill with epoxy or something like that? Nigel

And FWIW I think they're on Paddocks special offer list at present.... Nigel

How about looking at electronic control of winch and a maybe also drive - the drive interface is via the PTO output. Maybe you could use the PTO output to provide torque at variable speed to the wheels via a lockable magnetic clutch (something like a rotating version of the Telma retarders) or/and to provide sensible electrical output for driving electric winches. Doesn't have to be 12v - could be 440v 3phase. Your control gear could for instance ensure you don't drive over the winch line.

Or even the 3.2 200bhp 5cyl from the transit.

Some years ago a chap designing truck cabs told me the most effective way to kill noise was with weight between you and the noise - hence use of lead engine covers. I've never had much success with using felt etc. I'd imagine the door pads are supposed to damp out generation of noise by drumming rather than stop noise passing through. I can't tell what is noisy apart from the engine because its very vocal, but I'd guess gearbox etc as well. My guess therefore is if you can get some weight (eg heavy rubber) especially on the bulkhead and over the transmission it'll make the most difference there. Nigel

Stainless chassis. live axles, 4 pinion diffs with lockers. Doors with locks. Hard chromed seal surfaces with PTFE seals. No water leaks. No rattly sliding windows. Inbuilt roll cage. Room for big tyres with a decent turning circle. Emphasis on rugged simple well (even over)engineered and built durabilty with a 30 year life expectancy, and kind to the planet because it doesn't have to be remanufactured every 10 years or so, or need sophisticated materials. In fact every time the designer specifies mild steel or plastic he should be asked why. Bit roomier inside, but spartan finish and styling to put people off buying it eg for the school run if they don't actually need it. Electronics OK for some things (eg intermittent wipe) but they need to be cheap, generic, rugged, and easily replaced or faults diagnosed, and ideally not stop the vehicle if they don't work. Nigel

I'd second NicTheOrange90's comment. Typical behaviour of a coil failure, and an easy thing to start with. Even if you put a new one on and it makes no difference you'll need a spare sooner or later. Nigel

Had exactly this problem 2 weeks ago. The little steel ring is useless. It was too big to go inside, and too small to go outside. What value does it add? Tried to cut it and enlarge it slightly, thinking it might stick in place with a teen weeny blob of weld right at the front, or I might even epoxy it there, but no, it wouldn't expand or contract easily . The flange on the steering box side had lost its lip, and the rest isn't much better, and had a razor edge - ideal for a boot to sit on. I managaed to dress it into more of a bell shape with a small ball pein hammer, and put the rubber boot on. 2 days later the steel springy thing had climbed up the boot, and the boot had let go. I have now used a small tie wrap which clamps the boot nicely under the remaining lip and so far has held the boot in place. (Don't forget the draglink squashes the boot down, so it's not being pulled off). The spring has retired hurt. If your flange has gone completely( I had a bit of vertical flange left round the back) I'd say it was time for either a new drop arm, or something specific being turned to fit. <rant>Considering how long this design must have been used it's utter rubbish. If you do try to get the drop arm off, be prepared for a mighty fight. I bent the handle on a 10 ton hydraulic puller trying to get mine off. I tried heat, cold, bad language, turning my back on it and even asking it nicely. Finally with the puller on so tight I had to hold the arms on with a G cramp, I belted the ball joint end and it came loose. The Tech Archive piece on it says 10 minutes (but they aren't Earth minutes) to get it off. Why oh why not use a trackrod end? They even come in LH thread</rant> Nigel

James, Ta for that. I'll be underneath with tape measure and hammer shortly.... Nigel

Thanks for the feedback. I'd assumed that wherever it came from it would need a certain amount of fettling and additional welding anyway, and certainly the skanky paint they normally put on I would expect to have to change, as it is a b*****r to get off till you've fitted it then it falls off. But if the steel is actually more or less the right dimensions that would be nice. Sound like the one to go for. Could you tell me how long the chassis rail stubs they give you are? I just want to see if I've actually got anything solid left to attach it to (otherwise more serious fabrication will be needed) Nigel

Rear 110/130 springs are greater diameter so don't interchange. Front are fine (all AFAIK) Nigel

James, Thanks will be mighty interested to hear how it is. I have some crispy patches to deal with, and though I might get away with patching (for now) I think a new crossmember will be a better job, provided I don't have to treat a new one as just a source of raw materials to make my own. Nigel

Anyone tried these? Is it worth paying £200 ish to have to do less fettling than with a £120 Bearpart one? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/110-DEFENDER-REAR-CR...%3A1%7C294%3A50 (from MPS Trading, allegedly from SPI tooling) £175 + £23 p & p also direct from MPS at http://dca.dominohosting.biz/dca/mpsdb01.n...ls!OpenForm at 149.50 + dely or http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/rear-crossmemb...511-p-1688.html from Island 4x4 £199.99 post free also allegedly from SPI tooling, presumably the same thing as from MPS or there was a glasgow firm advertising them, mpfabrications, on ebay for £142.95 , free p&p claiming 'SPI quality'. This item has expired http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=250419368712 Regards Nigel

I had a rear shock absorber pull through the eye at the bottom, and it made that sort of noise, from the end of the shock just touching the wheel rim, then sometimes just moving slightly away. Might also be a stone caught in a disc shield if you have any Nigel

Bearing not normally available separatley I believe, but available here at a price http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=190222773322 Nigel

Ok well, if anyone's interested, I've just rung ZF and they referred me to Euro Car Parts, who in turn have quoted £96.95 + VAT, part no is 3000 950 701 Nigel

Ta,didn't realise they were Sachs agents - I used to get my BMW serviced there in the days when I could afford huge German motors and their petrol habit. I expect they'd have to order it in, but they used to be dead helpful, I doubt that'd be a problem. Nigel Ok well I just gave them a call and was told though they're Sachs dealers they only supply BMW parts. And in the past I have tried a couple of others in that list and been told similar stories, usually they only supply truck parts. Where did you get yours? Nigel

You might try Mailorder 4x4 ( http://www.mailorder4x4.com/acatalog/Defen...utch_Kits.html) They are (puzzlingly to me as I thought they were the same) advertising both Borg & Beck £66 +VAT, & AP Lockheed £59.40 plus vat as well as the Valeos. I have started looking at other suppliers as I think I will be needing one soon, and TBH people seem to have had problems of one sort or another with all these makes. I think ZF (ie Sachs) do one, but I haven't managed to run a dealer to ground . Nigel

Sorry to hear that. Have you any idea how they managed to nick it without a battery; presumably must have towed it? That's cheeky.