cackshifter

That's Paddocks for you. Had similar problems when buying brake discs. They seem to try it on. It annoys me that they seem to think you won't notice having specified non-Britpart parts to start with. Nigel

Ok, well if anyone's interested, it turned out to be the wiring loom to the towing socket had rubbed through in places inside the taping, salt water had got in and was intermittently conducting. Still haven't figured out where the earth tags are, though it looks like the earths run right through the chassis loom to the front, and are connected via some large plugs under the air cleaner. The bullet connectors were a trip down memory lane, as I used to mess with (real) Minis and I have still got a few spares; mine weren't in too bad condition, though a bit of a check round of them now has to be on the to do list. Thanks for all your help. Nigel

No I haven't changed a bulb recently, otherwise I agree it's a prime suspect. OK I did do a rear courtesy light one a couple of weeks ago but I can't see how that is anything but innocent bystander. I have just discovered the nearside lights are out because of a blown fuse, which when replaced lets them to work. I still think the problem is earth, and I have removed the rear covers over the lights, but the earth (black) wires are in the loom , ie there is no earth to chassis at that point. Does anyone know where the earth to chassis actually happens, specifically C812 & C813 on the wiring diagram?

Many thanks. Just got back in so I'll go & give it a go. Nigel

Hi, I have just got home from a local journey (110 300tdi CSW) but while out, weird things happened with the lights - specifically the rear fog warning came on, and the trailer flasher light. These things seemed to happen especially when I used the brakes, so I stopped and had a look round and the nearside tail light was out. When I put on the hazard lights, it flashed in synch with the indicators. OK, I know this all points to earth problems. So my question is, could someone please tell me where the earth tags are for the rear lights, as it's cold & dark & wet out, I need to use the car, and I'd like to go straight to it and fix it. I had a search on here but couldn't find any reference to it. Regards Nigel

Well the weather seems to be warming. I must admit, until the last few days my 300tdi started happily and almost instantly whether you wait for the light or not, and would idle lumpily for a moment then be fine. Recently it has been very rumpety for maybe 10 seconds after starting, really needs a blip to settle it, and has to be turned over for more than a moment. I don't think there's anything wrong with it, it's just cold and a diesel. If you give yours a day or 2, and the problems disappear with slighly warmer weather, it points to glow plugs maybe and just getting cold. If on the other hand it still worsens, you do have to be thinking of something else. Nigel

Hi all, Just fitted one of these MUD/Wiberg Defendervent kits, and very pleased with it. OK, ok I know it's not cheap, and I know there isn't much airflow to work with, but it makes the best of the heater output it's got. So much so it means you can usually see where you're going whereas in my leaky machine before you simply couldn't much of the time. The side demist is an added bonus, and seems to work fairly well. I despise working with trim, so it took me a while and quite a lot of pfaffing & vocabulary to fit. Why ever didn't the factory do it years ago? But now it's lovely. If anybody does decide to do it, it's also the ideal moment to do any maintenance to the wiper boxes as that is all exposed. Regards Nigel

Thanks for all the input folks. Nigel

I'd agree with all that's been said plus if your master cyl is dodgy the clutch might not be quite disengaging, hence grind(snick?) into 2nd gear. It's the one that would show up any faults. Nigel

I'd second the suggestion to measure the curent draw with everything switched off if you possibly can. I had another well known make of 4x4 where the battery went flat after about 10 days. It turned out the radio was faulty and leaking current, but as long as the engine was run weekly you wouldn't have noticed. A new radio fixed it. Alarms don't normally take much current unless they go off. Nigel

I was a bit put off by having to stretch the axle casing to get the diff out. Yes I know it can be done with chains & a beam etc, but it just seemed easier to get another axle ready and switch it. How did you get round the case stretching? Nigel

I have a 110 CSW with a Salisbury axle. I was considering getting a locking diff in it, and remembered the later 110 axles are a Rover axle, I think with a 4 pin diff. However, it occured to me rather than molest the innards of the Salisbury, as a locker would be 4 pin anyway and presumably equally strong whether in a Salisbury or Rover case, I might be able to fit a Rover axle instead - which would mean the time off road would be much less, as I could use a spare axle. So, does anybody know if the 'Rover' 110 rear axle has a special (eg stronger) case or would any case do? Ie is a later 110 rear axle just a Rover axle with a 4 pin diff? Nigel

Turners had some offers on 300tdi heads

A bit back I bought some Ankor wax as it had beaten the others in an AutoExpress or Practical Classics or something like that test. I find it easier to spray without heating it, and it's not as smelly as Waxoyl. It seems to last about the same. I'd say go for it. Morris seems reputable, their R380 oil works well in my box too. Nigel

Rather more optimistically, if you think the clutch is the issue, try a clutch bleed (there is fluid in isn't there - mine leaked away one day and was unnoticeable among the other discarded hydrocarbons), and check the arm moves smoothly when someone works the pedal for you (engine off). Check all the engine/gearbox mounts are tight. If you think 'not clutch', try jacking up a rear wheel, handbrake on, others chocked, and turn the rear wheel to & fro. It should turn a few degrees either way but not clank when it reaches the end of its travel. Try it too with handbrake off, but in gear. If still OK, repeat with a front. That should show up wear in a propshaft joint, and any gearbox clunks. Try getting someone to push it to & fro in gear on level ground while you lie alongside. That will show up A frame balljoint movement. I have a similar age & mileage car, and have had this twice, and both times it was a propshaft u/j (and they're cheap!) Regards Nigel

A pair of forceps is a good investment for such situations, though maybe wouldn't work here; or glue/tack weld a bit of coat hangar/welding wire to the nut maybe? Blob of something sticky on a finger sometimes works too. Nigel

Thanks for the suggestion, I am more or less decided that a change of wheels is required; problem is most vendors don't publish offset figures, and in this situation every millimetre counts. I do think part of the problem with spacers is people using the wrong design for their combination of bits, but they're probably just not a good idea.

Ok, thanks for that - doing a bit of boning up on it round various vendors' sites, it seems not everyone thinks the same. Nigel

Sorry to have to raise this subject again but.. I 'm looking at maybe getting spacers or different rims as I am finding my 110 doesn't have enough lock angle to make manoeuvring a horse trailer an enjoyable experience. I know all the stuff that spacers are undesirable because anything that's joined might unexpectedly part company, and I agree it's not ideal. However the bit I do fail to see is why a combination of a wheel and spacer giving a certain track to the vehicle will impart more of a strain on bearings, swivels etc than a wheel that generates the same track on the same vehicle (assuming that everything is attached solidly). I can see widening the track by whatever means will increase stresses. Surely the additional leverage and hence wear imposed is the same? Can someone more knowledgeable please explain? Also there seem to be 2 sorts of spacers - those with lugs and those without. Since alloy wheels eg Boost seem to be spigot-located ie on the hub, and the nuts performing just a clamping role, can someone confirm they would have to have the locating lugs? Whereas steel wheels locate by the conical seats of the nuts and so they shouldn't have the lugs otherwise that would upset the seating? Nigel

I'd add, are you sure the diff lock is disengaged properly? Nigel

Might also be (crud on the edge of) the disc contacting the disc shield, in which case it's v ery cheap and easy fix - you'd see with the wheel off. Regards Nigel

It must be quite hard to paint a roof on the vehicle unless you have some scaffolding or something (I assume we are talking spraying), and quite a high yet clean area. It's quite a big area as well (on a 110 anyway). I'd try to keep it broken down as much as possible, paint it and be careful assembling, as that would also give the best corrosion resistance, and would be easier to manage. It's not really like a car which is all joined up, more a collection of panels with joins. Even if you do have to repaint a panel you know there is a good layer of paint in those hard to get at spots, and the bonnet and doors you can do horizonal which minimises chance of runs. I think if you were doing the whole vehicle unless you have several people spraying at once, you wouldn't get round it quickly enough to join wet edges - you'd tend to get dry patches. OTOH if you have professional quality kit you could probably overcome a lot of that. Nigel

MailOrder 4x4 are doing 300tdi Garret turbos for 395 +VAT. I think that's outright though. Nigel

That route is good, but I found it was easier to run it past the servo on the bulkhead and come at it from the other side, as I was doing it with engine, piping,wiring etc in place and threading the pipe through all the gubbins was not easy. If you've got reasonable access no problem. Nigel

Hi, Toying with the idea of this also, I have a 300tdi 110 used for trundling around locally and towing a horse trailer, and I think the auto would be smoother for the horses. I'd be very interested to hear what you think when you have it done. Regards Nigel