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Everything posted by Paul
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Depends where you are and what you're doing with it. Here is Australia, sustained highway driving in summer will easily see the salisbury too hot to hold your hand on for very long, but the front rover diff is noticeably less hot. Top quality full synthetic oil made a significant difference to the temp on the salisbury, but didn't make the same improvement to the rover diff.
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Just saw actual confirmation today that all Land Rovers in the Aus military will be replaced by partly by MOG & Mack truck built vehicles, but mostly G Wagen vehicles (over 2000 in the initial order). Apparently MB will be providing G Wagens in a 6x6 variant built by Steyr Punch to replace the Perenties. First deliveries December 2009. Probably old news and certainly not unexpected, but it's the first actual confirmation I've seen. At least it's good to see that Toyota didn't win the tender. Better news is the number of 6x6 Perenties due to be dumped on the market soon.
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Actually Les, if the small buzzer in the link above is all you're going to use, or pehaps just a small LED warning light as well, you can safely dispense with the relay. The buzzer is only 35mA and the timer was built to handle 2A (we did an upgrade on the old version). Hopefully that dodgey Cordell bloke included the wiring diagram with the timer, but if he didn't, we've colour coded the wires all the same: RED - Ignition +ve BLACK - Ground BLUE - Water level switch, Other side of switch to ground WHITE - 12VDC alarm signal to connect to buzzer, light. 2 Amps Max Paul
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Les I'd suggest you use a small standard (normally open) relay to be triggered by the feed from the timer, just to be safe. Use the relay output to operate the buzzer and/or warning light. Something like one of these (30ASPDT): http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=37526 Paul
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Easy option is like this: Provided you don't go submarining with it running. More pic here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=2115 Paul
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Is this all I need to fit a Disco II prop
Paul replied to zulublue's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
You are correct, the Disco II prop (and 300tdi/TD5 Defender prop) are both substantially shorter than the 200tdi Defender prop (by about 40mm). You will need a spacer. Have a look here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...l=double+cardan Paul -
Nige Check the earth wire that runs from guage to guage at the back. When I fiddled with my gauges I left the earth wire off by mistake and it produced a "full" reading all the time.
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Let me know when you get to Adelaide and we'll show you around. Paul
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Exhaust Exit position - Pics thoughts please
Paul replied to Hybrid_From_Hell's topic in International Forum
Probably of limited help Nige, but my 3" exits here: Problem is I don't run a rear silencer, and being a 110, there's a bit more bodywork overhanging anyway. If it was a 90, I'd be trying to cut big hole in the crossmember "wing" and have it come through there. -
Thanks Dave. All I need to find now are some cheap 24 spline axles. Ebay here I come...
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Ah, so the bearings on the pinion end are exactly the same as the bearings on the hemisphere. Thanks again Dave.
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While we're at it, does anyone have the Timken part number for the pinion bearings?
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Fantastic. Thanks Dave.
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Here's one for part number gurus. I have an ARB locker for a 24 spline Rover diff (RD128) and I want to fit it to a housing and CW&P from an early Disco (10 spline). I need to replace the bearings, but they have different part numbers depending on whether it's a 10 spline or 24 spline diff. Which bearings do I use, the ones that suit the old 10 spline housing, or the ones that suit the new 24 spline ARB carrier? Oh, and what would be the part numbers? Ralph? Pretty Please?? Paul
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I used to have trouble with water droplets getting past the drier when using a high pressure spray gun for painting . I was using a portable (13 cfm) compressor, but with our hot weather the drier wasn't really doing a great job. The simple solution was to use a short length of copper pipe (about 1 metre total) wound in a tightish coil that I could connect in series between the compressor outlet and the drier, and submerging the copper coil in a bucket of water. This cooled the air really well and the drier performed faultlessly after that. It was also completely portable like the rest of the equipment (and cheap). I just used ordinary Ryco snap couplings to connect it up. Paul
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Nah, the Valeo 130 clutch is 9.5" just like the others: Hey Tony, that first picture is a bit of déjà vu for me: In exactly the same way, the AP brand clutch failed very early with no visible signs of excessive wear. It simply started to slip under load, and I had plenty of freeplay in the pedal adjustment. As I said before, so far the Valeo clutch has been fine despite getting a thrashing in the sand, but now that I've said that... Paul
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The first and latest pic you have of your current car
Paul replied to white90's topic in International Forum
From this: to this: -
As always, Ralph is on the money. It's most common here in Aus to use one spot and one driving light, that way a good spread and decent distance can be achieved. Spots usually have clear glass, whilst driving lights have some diffusion in the glass. Not the best of photos, but it does show the difference (spot on drivers side, which is normal placement): Paul
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I put a Valeo 130 kit in 2 years ago Tony. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=4380 Reading some of the comments since regarding their tendancy to apparently self destruct I've had my concerns, but it hasn't missed a beat so far, and gets a right thrashing in the sandhills. Paul
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Make sure you get the 6 bolts for the TD5 clutch pedal box too. The later bolts are metric, the 200Tdi pedal box bolts are imperial. (guess how I found that out) Paul
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I wanted to ensure the probe was in the gas flow from all 4 cylinders, rather than just 1 or 2, so I fitted the probe here: Paul
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removing bearing carrier on transfer box
Paul replied to Gromit's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
My 200tdi Defender has the countersunk screws the same as Ralph's, but I have a spare 200tdi era LT230 that is the same as yours Gromit, no screws, and no holes for the screws. There was obviously some variations in LT230s from time to time. -
Is the front hub bearing locknut 2" or 52mm socket?
Paul replied to HotRod's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
2 1/16" will do quite nicely as well. I use an old 2 1/16" socket bored out and welded to some 2" pipe. Paul -
(Completely OT) If you've had a cold wet New Year's Eve
Paul replied to Paul's topic in International Forum
If you had any idea how much money the wife & I have spent chasing a white Christmas.... Paul -
We haven't !! Taken at about 6.00pm last night on the way home from work: The fourth day in a row in the 40s, half way to an official "Hot Spell" LR content: leave you Defender in the shed (or pretty much any other foreign car for that matter). Happy New Year from Australia all. Paul