SOA 93

Gon2far/QT pics.

Can anyone explain, in simpleton terms why my uploaded pics are being compressed when I post them? I have about a dozen or so picures of the QT 3-link I want to post. Andy

testing testing 1 2 3....

Bill, I was trying to find the info you are describing, when I came across the OL thread, the offset for your upper middle link, am I right in assuming that that compensates for torque steer, rather than make matters worse? I was always happier with thoughts of having two arms resisting braking forces rather than just the centre one, but was worried that the middle link had to be in the centre, will the Panhard being LHD or RHD make any contribution to all this tourque reaction. Wristed? Do you mean cranked or bent? Cheers Andy

The beauty of this Oz set up is you keep your standard radius arms, no chopping. Only the forward mounts on the axle get cut off, this new beam then connects the front pair of bushes in the radius arms together. This beam is pivoted in the middle of the axle, so when the axle articulates instead of the radius arms trying to twist the axle this beam just pivots slightly, the beam just transfers some of the locating action of the radius arms from the outside to the centre just like a three link, When on the road this beam can be bolted or pinned so that it can't move, which then gives you standard road holding. I don't think this system could be made bolt-on, I can't see any way around not cutting off your forward axle to radius arm mounts. I think its exactly what I've been looking for, I will seek advice on what to use for the middle pivot. I mocked this up in timber on my 'mule' on Sunday and although it makes the front axle look a little busy its easily doable on a Rover. Andy

Pics So waddya think eh? Andy Edited: Not sure how to make them larger. Sorry

Nige, Uptil last weekend I had a 3 link all worked out, easy enough really. Then I came across this http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/...pic.php?t=74412 on the toyota forum when searching for 3 link info. The beauty of this system is it can be locked up for road use and then get 3-link type articulation when off road. Bit of fab work....right up your street. Andy

Daan, Sounds like you've checked all the obvious, I think you may have a problem with your truetrac. Regarding your steering box, I have a LHD 4-bolt PAS box its an Adwest remanufactured box, new. You are welcome to try it if you want to rule your box out. Andy

As a guide, at Billing, Tomcat motorsport had a very nice 24 row 230mm wide auto transmission cooler with an ally shroud and 150mm fan, Paul said that when they had had warranty issues with auto failures, gearbox suppliers checked on the size of oil coolers fitted and had no complaints. The whole set up was very expensive, prices for the cooler matrix were nearly double that of Think Automotive or Merlin Motorsport. I think you could comfortably half the price, by sourcing the main components yourself. Andy

Well you see loads of lifted zukis and Hilux's with MT's, some nice looking trucks out there, and you see plenty of 4WD workshops around. I'd imagine the best tracks are up in the north of the country where its still 3rd world, some of the main roads into villages are pretty rough , I think when you get to Pattaya you'll find many tourist places advertising just about any thing you want to do. A 4WD safari you may find a little tame. Theres no real public rights of way network in Thailand, land generally belongs to someone. My wifes Thai I'll ask her later, she normally has a friend/cousin in every town in Thailand Are you going to Pattaya with your partner or with mates. Andy

I was thinking the same, but surely a 3 link is just really a bolt on? New crossmember with centre link and using the standard radius arm to chassis mounts, fabication only required on the axle, or you could buy one of the kits, totally bolt on then. Understandibly no one wants to stick there head out, but like alot of the 'political correctness" and "health and safety" bulls@@t that we are bombarded with every day, its not done for the benefit of the masses but just done so that when something inevitably goes wrong a finger can be pointed and persons can be prosecuted. Can you imagine it in the court room, your modified vehicle (a 4x4 no less) causing an accident in which someone gets hurt or worse . Theres plenty of info on the net about how unstable a 3-link is on the road, mainly by people who don't have one, you can disregard the people who have them and say they are fine. Never mind the fact that it contributed nothing to the accident, your still branded as a Satan worshipper. A few years ago, a lad I know had a teenage school boy step out in front of him on a main A-road with the national speed limit, barely had chance to brake, the boy was killed instantly. When the Police investgated they checked the car, which belonged to his employer, the Police later told him that if they had found any thing wrong, such as tyre pressures then he could be charged with 'Manslaughter', even though there was cars in front of him and behind him who had witnessed the accident. Its upto the individual to make sure all their mods conform and don't fall foul of the system, no one cares until something goes wrong, only then will things get scrutinised and fingers start pointing, the fact that you are insured will not matter. Apologies for the rant. Andy

I know they are generally not the cheapest, but you could start at Machine Mart. http://www.machinemart.co.uk/ranges.asp?g=114&r=2105 Home made phase convertor came with a 2-Post ramp I bought many years ago, used several huge capacitors and a 6 inch nail as a plunger with what looked like a coat hanger for a field coil(?) , it did work, but I didn't need it, someone did buy it off me though Andy

I think we'd all like a huge budget, and we probably all know exactly where it would go. Dreaming and drooling cost nothing and hey!! Its a rollover weekend you could be on the phone to Portel Tek first thing Monday. I'd love a Tomcat. Andy

If you look at what what people are using to keep their LR axles in one piece then cost of Portel Tek's is a relative bargain. Many challenge competitors have have over the years gradually updated there axles as the latest parts have come on to the market, eg shafts, ARB's, R&P's, better shafts , drive flanges, diff pegging and now CV's. However if you look at the price of doing that in one hit then, using Ashcroft's website your looking at £3300, and if you price in a crawler box instead of R&P's then your lookig at £4600!! I think many if not most would certainly look around at other options before lashing out their wonga to get a set of axles strong enough for 35" tyres, and as for 500+ and 44" tyres Looking at Portel Teks gallery, their drop box's look very compact and they also mount up to a flange(at least on the rear anyhow), now what if they did a kit that just bolted to standard LR axle? Maybe a flange conversion for the front axle to bolt straight on, standard LR brake components would be nice too . So no fabricating mounts etc, mainly a bolt on exercise. How many would see that as just the next progression? I don't know what the drop gear ratio is on these axles but lets say there is some reduction, maybe enough to to run 35"/ to 40" with the standard 3.54 R&P. This not only saves the cost of a 4.1 or 4.75(better) but now gives you a lot less high/low overlap (needs a change in transfer ratio), maybe low enough to make crawler boxes unnecessary? And would it increases the relative strength of the LR shafts and diff? If it became a bolt on exercise, reusing your existing brakes, what would the price drop to? Between £2000 and £3000? Your likely to need new wheels similar to Volvo's to keep the width down aswell, how many people would be interested? The very trick space frame buggy that was at Billing, pictures on here a few weeks ago, alledgedly costing £40,000 to build, on LR axles , Why?. With that kind of budget I'd have been Knocking on Portel Teks door. Opinions please. Andy

I cycled up it in 2000 on a Full Suspension mountain bike, I was doing a solo 6 day tour of the Lake District, mainly off road, had a rucksac on as well, with everything needed for hostelling. Did make sure it was the first climb of the day though!! I was very,very fit back then. Done much longer harder climbs in the Alps and Pyranees though. B) Andy

Found what I thought I was looking for today, turned out to be for twin alternators... Doh!! I would appreciate the 200tdi parts page/numbers please. Thanks Andy

A while back someone posted the parts diagram for the bits relating to the TDI engine, ie. mounts, pullies etc. Tried several searches to no avail, I think it was on either International or Tools and Fab forum, if anyone remembers I'd appreciate a link. Cheers Andy

Bathtub, Its Bill Davis, he probably thinks you've got a lisp. I may be interested in your Detroit, never raced or rallied eh! PM me what you want for it. You need a 180 amp alternator with that Double oven you've got on your front bumper. Thanks for the info. Andy

Hi Bathtub, Yes, I'm well aware of what tyres you have run and are now running and I know you have you have been in contact with Bill at GBR after another ARB to replace your Detroit, he hasn't let me know when he expects the side gears to arrive yet, and if I could get new gears made in the UK then I think that would be a better solution, and if I start with a Dana60 ARB then it is easier to upgrade if I ever need to. I can get drive hafts off an e-bay shop not quite as cheap as yours but nearly. I want to keep the stock shafts if I can, to keep costs down, I don't really want a detroit in a day to day vehicle and the quote I received from Mcnamara was way to high. Has Bill from GBR given you a idea of when he expects the gears. Your plan to get new shafts if needed is exactly the same as I'm hoping. Getting Rakeway to do the gears (hopefully!) might benefit you too. Andy

The concrete is spayed with dye/colouring while wet and then printed with large pads to make the pattern, many different patterns. You are supposed to reseal suface once a year I think, to stop the colour fading. As with all these options its what underneath that really makes a difference, ie top soil removed and a good layer of well compacted hard core (150mm preferably), and you need to think about where all your surface water is going to go. If you are going to park in the same place, how about 2 rows of slabs 900mm wide with gravel down the middle for the oil drips could leave the grass either side then. To drive on you need the slabs bedded down on a lean dry concrete mix. Andy

OK the latest from Rakeway is that I have just sent the cheque off to them for the last RD35 ARB (Dana 60HD full float 4.56 and up 35 spline) that GKN UK has, I will take a 101 axle up to them and then they are going to have a look at the best solution for myself, ie shafts or side gears. Then if its not going to work they can send the ARB back. Did me a good price on the ARB . If everything is ok they will order another from ARB (Aus), but could take a couple of months, giving my wallet chance to recover. D-90 I mentioned you, and informed Neil you are likely to call about a similar project. Guys.....really really really good tech on the shafts! Andy

I spoke to Rakeway today, about drive shafts for salisbury axles, 101FC though, could hardly believe how helpful they were! Custom shafts are about £200 each for EN26(?) spec shafts and £300 for 300M shafts. I'm the opposite to you, Rovertracks never replied to my e-mail and Mcnamara took 4 months . I enquired about the possibility of 4340 shafts his opinion was that it was it was to difficult to get the heat treatment done properly, they had a challenge Toyota in ther workshop at the moment with broken high spec American 4340 chromoly shafts. I told him I was going to be using 37"(925mm) tires and he thought that EN26 (or whatever) would be plenty strong enough in that size shaft. 101 driveshafts are 35.6mm and Dana 60 35 spline are 38mm. If you've e-mailed Rakeway then it may be better to give them a phone call, I learnt an awful lot in the short conversation I had with Neil. I should point out that in my case the custom shafts are a last resort and they are going to investigate other options first. I'd persevere with Rakeway they are interested in this kind of stuff, but like alot of these small specialist companies the don't have full time office staff to deal with enquiries, give em' another try. Hope that helps a little. Andy

Some of you might find this tech a little useful: http://www.adverc.co.uk/technical/technical-twin.asp Good website generally worth a visit. Andy

I always intended to fit Staun's they seem like an ideal solution, lock both beads, they fit your existing wheels, so you can upgrade a a later date, and legal as you say. However I've been put off by some of the reports by forum members, not nice things said about them . I'm interested in how long you've had yours what tyres you use, what you use them for? and you mention maintenance? Cheers Andy

Ok, stupid question alert!! Double beadlocks are the dogs whatsits without a doubt, just bloody expensive! I've looked at the DIY kits for the outer rim and thought OK simple enough. And then I've thought what about a band with a bolt (like a big jubilee clip) inserted inside the tyre and tightened around the inner bead........ not easy to instal or just plain impossible? When you picked yourself up off the floor, let me know what you think, but be gentle! Cheers Andy