SOA 93

Si, previously on your X-eng website you used to sell alternators for Land Rovers and IIRC you stated that running higher than 65A alternators through a single V belt could cause them to catch fire, the belts that is, or at least get way to hot. I think this refered to using them with a winch though. I think you will struggle to find many car manufacturers fitting much more than 70A to 80A alternators on a single V-belt. The advantage with multi-V(serpantine) is you can make the pulley a smaller diameter, you then get higher power at lower revs. A useful bit of tech here http://www.adverc.co.uk/technical/technical-twin.asp Tomorrow I should be picking up a pulley I ordered, its the V8 pulley which is a normal V drive from the crank with a Multi-V driving the alternator, I'm going to see if it will fit or be adapted to fit a 200TDI. As someone has said already if you use a V belt the it is likely it will need regular adjustment. Also if you are using (heavily) the alternator to power winch batteries/winches then it is likely that problems may occur as opposed to just fitting an larger alternator to power a few extra accessories.

Most things are possible, not so much difficult, more bloody time consuming, why would you want to? Or do you mean a suspension lift? I assume it has something to do with fitting a V6, any more info?

Have a look here http://www.turbotechnics.co.uk/docs/vsr/balance.htm probably the best known turbo company in the UK. Site generally is worth a look. Andy

IIRC they file/machine the nut on the shaft for any 'post assembly' balancing. Andy

I've read all the posts on alternator upgrades, including yours, however I want the to be able to fit a bigger, 150+A alternator at a later date, also part of rating on your conversion will be associated with the RPM of the alternator, changing the pulley slows the alternator down while you may be getting 100A max I don't think you'll be getting the full benefit of the 100A upgrade, at say tickover where it will be important for me. There are questions about the V belt being upto 100+A, they can catch fire! One of the reasons for using multi V's is you can use a smaller pulley, if you start putting smaller pulley's with V belts then there is not enough wrap and they slip. It may be that it was this model year of V8 that went from 80A to 100A alternator hence the need for the conversion to multi V. No doubt someone will be along to put me straight.

In the pursuit of a bigger alternator for the my 200TDi disco, I've been thinking about converting to multi V/ serpantine type belt for the alternator drive. I have some pulleys I can modify to give me twin V belts around the water pump, crank and PSA pump if neccesary and and a suitable multi V pulley for the PAS pump and it will all fit. Now I've just been looking in the Haynes 'book of lies' and it looks like Land Rover did this themselves with the 94-98 V8 disco models, I'm assuming they didn't use twin V belts but it looks as though they used a multi V drive off the PAS pump to alternator and V belts every where else. So is this right? It looks like this model year is the only one, I assume they went serpantine in 95'. If this is indeed all correct, did it have twin V's driving the PAS or single? Will the PAS pump pulley fit other Land Rover pumps? Any one got 94' disco with a multi V alternator? Cheers Andy

I'm no expert, so I'll just pass on the info I've read. Rear engine single seaters with cold narrow tyres 9% eg. Small hillclimb or F/Frd. Rear engined s/seaters with wide and cool tyres 11% eg. Big hillclimb. Circuit single seaters with hot wide tyres 12.5% eg. Formula 1,2 etc Fullrace saloon/sports with engine over driven wheels 15% eg. Le Mans,Silhouette saloons, Mini, Imp etc. Road going saloons/sports 'as above' and FE/RWD Full race 18% eg. Fiesta, U2, Clubmans, mini, X19 Road going saloons/ sports FE/RWD 21% eg. chevette, MGB, Rover, Jaguar XK Road going saloons/sports with 4WD 25% eg. Quattro, Range Rover. It states" should you lack a rolling road figure for power at the driven wheels the flywheel bhp, generally given by tuners, racing engine builders and the major manufacturers should be adjusted as follows." Or look at it logically,is a 4WD cossie that much slower than a 2WD cossie? The answer is no. 40% is way out, Tyres play abig part as can be seen in the above, Measuring through 4 sets of tyres is always be worse than through 2. I would of expected the losses through transmission and tyres to be more like 26hp rather than the output fot that Disco. FF is right about power though, Roland Marlow (?) reckons on getting about 90hp from a good TDI on an engine dyno and as for 350hp TVR engines..... Tyre pressure plays a big part in the numbers on a rolling road as FF has already said.

Ooooooh...... Is that the sound of a gauntlet hitting the ground. Bravo that man should be interesting.

According to my "Race and rally car source book" about 25%.

Have a look here http://www.washbrook.net/winch.htm , but as HH says, doable, but worth it? I think the relay would have to come from the states. Boats use a similar relay for bow thrusters, just not big enough. Andy

Picked up my Shafts from Rakeway last week. These were for FC101 shafts with a Dana 60 inner spline made out of 300M cost was £240 each + VAT. They can make them out of lesser material at reduced cost. They also make LR shafts out of 300M for about £150 more than Ashcroft shafts. I also had a drag link and track rod made by them out of solid 38mm EN24 for £70 each + VAT. I'm very pleased with the shafts and can recommend Rakeway, very helpful and informative, with a can do attitude. Andy

Regardind D2 axles you could call Neil at Rakeway, Making the D2 shafts for the Drew Bowler was how the company got off the ground. Lighter and better geometry, meaning better camber and scrub radius, apparently Rear wheel bearings arer problematic and expensive. As already mentioned CV's are the small 32 spline variety. Rakeway keep in stock uprated (300M I think) shafts for front and rear. Even their front shafts have problems due to the 32 spline restrictions. Several of their customers run these axles, However Neil does not like them. Andy

Yeah, that's spot on I was only walked to school on my first day I was given a front door key around my neck and walked/ran home with friends got changed and straight back out again. According to the Police children are at no more risk now than they were 30 or 40 years ago, its media hype and frenzy that's got us into this state. We were afraid of the Police and adults in general, if you got caught you new you were in big trouble. After Tea it was up the playing field for a game of football, 20 to 30 lads of all ages playing one football game, every week night, if light enough. Rolled up jumpers for goal posts...............

I enquired about these, but maybe 3 or 4 years ago, he wanted about £400 IIRC. He also had, off the same trucks front and rear Salibury's with coiler track width. He advertized in one of the rags I should still have the copy, If no one comes forward with any more info I try to find the number for you. I seem to remember he had a florist business or something, the LR's was just a hobby. Andy

No experience of QT ones, they are white peak engineering (your mate Andy ). SPI do the series ones for your truck in ABS. Front Spats are LR55A and LWB rears are LR55C, SWB and SW LWB rears are LR55B. Andy

But the man at Land Rover marketing said it was "better and stronger and different...... " Yes it is 230mm between input and output on the LT230. Regarding the original topic, I think its strength has a good reputation abroad, the yanks and aussies are happy to stick 350 small blocks and associated transmissions in front of them, adaptors are available

I think it is the distance between mainshaft and layshaft in mm in gearbox's, bigger the distance, bigger the gears and bearings. Hence why the LT95 was regarded as a strong box, the LT85 stronger than the LT77 etc. R380 is the LT77 in disguise .... could just of called it LT77(suffix)x or something, could well be the distance from the input to output centres on the LT230 Transfer. I'll go and check!

I can only assume that you are using, the series 3 body on the Rangie chassis? If this is the case then don't bother with the series Salisbury. The shafts are not much bigger than your Rangie shafts and as already mentioned the track is a fair bit narrower. The salisbury comes with one of the strongest diffs available while Rovers in 2 pin flavour must be one of the weakest. If you want a salisbury for the diff strength then sourse a 110 version no fabwork, just bolt on Don't fit the series diff in the front axle the 4.7 CWP is quite a bit weaker than the coiler 3.54 CWP. The outriggers and springs on the 109 were moved out from under the chassis for stability when loaded, they are the same width as all series axles. It really is worth spending alot of time trawling through ALL the posts on this Forum, it would take a few evenings you quickly learn which are worth reading and which can be missed, but there is a great deal of info relating to your project in here. Andy

Whats the procedure for cranking standard arms? heat, crack testing etc, any body know? Andy

http://www.rakeway.co.uk/ Andy

Rakeway make alot of the parts for KAM, they are fitted in Jeremy Fearns bowler, which is putting out around 600 lbft torque. However the diffs Rakeway fitted to Fearns Bowler were slightly different to the ones KAM sell to the average punter (or were anyway). I think some of the bits were changed for better quality parts. If you do pursue the KAM option then I'd get them from Rakeway or at least talk to Neil there. Andy

I've got loads of makita Cordless stuff, used an abused every day 24v chopsaw, recipro and SDS, 18v combi drills x2, impact driver , jigsaw and circular saw. I've had AEG, Bosch, Metabo would not entertain Dewalt, overhyped. Makita have consistantly stayed ahead of the game in Battery technology while all the others play catch up, my Combi drill started to sound a bit rough a couple of years ago, so it was relegated to mixing Plaster with a 5" paddle, its still going . The drill in the Screwfix catalogue is at the cheap end of the makita range, but I'd recomend that above some of the others trade range . If I thought anyone else's cordless kit was better than Makita's then I'd be using it. Some of the other brands are brilliant to start with but don't seem to last. My cordless stuff is a bit of a passion

I have a brand new unfitted set for a 5 door, did put them up in classified a while back, bought from Innovation 4x4 at Billing, PM me if any one is interested. Andy

Vitesse and Vanden Plas were both efi, rated at 190bhp. Larger valves, hotter cam and large bore exhaust, along with Lucas flapper. Comfortably did 140mph, I put one of these engines in a Crew Cab Sherpa(tipper) and used it for work , it was taken out to 3.9 and had a 2.5 inch straight through exhaust. Sounded fab went like stink, drive every where in 5th gear, needed a much higher final drive though, used to rev out at 90mph . Happy times

Firstly, I'm not planning on modding any series axles at the moment It was a lying in bed moment the spacers/adaptors would have to be as thick as the extra length of driveshaft, they would be drilled and tapped from either side to take the different bolt pattern(?) ie. series to RR. you could even offset the castor to suit your lift. I have no experience of reverse ackerman, but Bill Van Snorkel runs his this way and says it improves turn in off road, I don't think he has any issues on road either. The Daihatsu TRE is a good tip is the Taper the same? Does it sound doable? Andy