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Posts posted by Bigj66
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17 minutes ago, Litch said:
"So you’ve positioned the selector above the centre seat location and the transfer lever in the tunnel? Do you have any more photos of the centre console installation before seats etc were fitted?"
The transfer lever is in the standard location (new mounting included in kit) and the shifter is determined by the console but it all falls nicely to hand. Found an old photo of the console without the seat.
If you get a chance could you measure the distance between the front edge of your seatbox and the centre of the transfer lever aperture in the console please?
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8 minutes ago, Litch said:
Just noticed you are not very far from me. Feel free to PM me if you wanted a test-drive to see how it feels.
So you’ve positioned the selector above the centre seat location and the transfer lever in the tunnel?
Do you have any more photos of the centre console installation before seats etc were fitted?
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8 hours ago, elbekko said:
Is your cooler from an auto or a manual?
It’s a P38 Diesel engine oil cooler that I am using for the autobox.
At the gearbox end I can hopefully use M16 AN fittings if they are suitable for hydraulic purposes. From the measurements I took above, it looks like the oil cooler threads are M22 x 1.5 unless anyone knows differently?
I still need to measure the female threads on the two ports of the oil filter head on the front cover.
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What master cylinder and servo did you end up using?
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Ashcrofts tell me that for my box code (714) the thread size for the two oil cooler ports is M16 x 1.5
That said the oil cooler rigid pipe is a larger size fitting so presumably there should be an adapter between the two?
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I once used a battery off a FLT with the right dimensions on my S3 Safari diesel with electric winch. It was much taller than standard but still fitted within the battery tray and had much greater capacity. Better than opting for a split charge at the time.
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I had a fuel pump off a Disco 2 Thor V8 delivered and it came with a white blanking plug that fitted into a white clip. Is this clip the same one that the fuel pipe will fit in to or is it just a transport/delivery item as with the blank plug and therefore be replaced with another?
I’ve seen different colour coded clips used on pumps and just want to check if this one that came with the pump can be used or should I be looking for another one?
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I thought I’d add some photos and measurements that I’ve taken in case it’s of use to others in the future.
P38 oil cooler connections:
M16 banjo on to P38 power steering box and V8 power steering pump high pressure line:
P38 power steering box M14 banjo bolt.
200 TDi radiator oil cooler connections without adapters.
I’m assuming this last one is the 3/8 BSP internal diameter measurement and not an external diameter metric thread? It’s confusing knowing what parts are metric threads like the steering box and which are BSP like the oil cooler.
Should the engine oil filter housing ports and the transmission oil cooler pipe connections to the ZF auto gearbox also be BSP?
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On 8/28/2020 at 11:40 PM, Chicken Drumstick said:
A tuned 2.25 petrol will not produce anything like the torque of a Tdi and likely lacking power too if the Tdi is tuned.
I’m sure it’s all possible to get it to work. But I’d put a penny on a pound it’ll be horrid and sluggish to drive.
You’re probably right but it’s just theoretical. Maybe a matched torque converter and stump puller cam could improve things but I don’t know enough about them to say.
Making classic Landrovers easier for people with physical limitations to drive was part of the reason I opted for my auto conversion so a family member can also enjoy it.
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2 hours ago, Gazzar said:
For your intended use, these will be fine. If you were headed to Morocco, maybe not.
I might be headed to Hull, will they cope with the M62?.....🤔
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I’ve ordered a set of Munroe gas magnums so will give them a try during the shake down period and see how they perform.
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On 8/26/2020 at 4:00 PM, Tranquil said:
Ok Thanks. The unrefined part is my dislike of the LR Tdi engines. I had a Trooper many years ago and my high mileage 2.8 was way better that an almost new Disco I test drove when it was time to move on.
I assume not possible to mate an auto to the standard 2 1/4 petrol. Or will it lose too much Bhp.
Thanks
The TDi auto box should fit to the 2.25 engine as I think they’re the same bolt pattern.
Ashcroft's tell me that there is no difference between a V8 and a TDi auto box except for bellhousing, input shaft and the transfer box so in theory, if you can get your 2.25 tuned to give similar power and torque outputs to a TDi, then it should be possible using the TDi flex plate and torque converter. The ACR kit should achieve something close to it.
You’d need to do a lot of research though to check all that and you may also need to move the engine forwards to fit the box and rear prop in but a tape measure should help you with the basics.
It’s a lot of work and money to do it right but it would be interesting to see if it could be done.
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7 hours ago, keeley75 said:
When I was last up at Allisport. They were Tig welding AN fittings onto a V8 front cover and coolers for a customer. It was according to them cheaper and easier for fittings and some of the Landy pipework is No Longer Available.........If you find a work around let us know...
I have a set of good front cover to radiator oil cooler pipes here but they are too long for the space I have available.
Off a V8 Disco 2
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5 minutes ago, Jon White said:
P38 steering box bolts are m16x1.5 and m14x1.5
the oil cooler in a tdi radiator is threaded 3/8” BSP and there is then an adaptor that screws into that which the metal cooler pipe fits into.
no idea on the others - measure them and look them up in a Zeus book
Cheers
When you say measure them is that just a case of callipers to get a diameter or do I need to take other measurements?
I was hoping to get AN fittings to screw straight on to the respective threads and banjo bolts for the steering.
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Thanks everyone for the feedback. Yes, for me it’s 99% road use and certainly no mud plugging.
I’ve used Monroe before and like them especially with being a gas type so if the general consensus is that for my usage, standard length will suffice then this opens up more options for me.
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I didn’t know Koni did shocks for a Series...🤔
All the searches I’ve done seem to come back to Britpart or Pro Comps with ones like Spax, De Carbon etc only available for the coilers.
If anyone has specific part numbers of certain makes that could help narrow down the search it would be appreciated.
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I’ve been looking for a set of shock absorbers to replace the Pro Comps that we’re originally fitted with the GB paras and from what I’ve read it seems that the shock absorber will need to be longer than standard and, be designed for use with parabolics due to the possibility of overheating from increased travel.
If that’s the case then it seems to rule out brands such as Monro, Armstrong etc and there doesn’t seem to be a massive amount of mid-price range choice out there apart from the Pro Comps which have mixed reviews so what are folk choosing when it comes to replacement?
The price of some of the top range stuff like Bilsteins is eye watering and given that I’ll not be using the vehicle with extreme suspension travel or heavily loaded, it seems difficult to justify that sort of outlay when all I’m really after is good road manners without being too harsh over bumps.
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Does anyone know the thread size and pitch for the P38 power steering pipes, P38 oil cooler and the V8 oil filter housing to 200 tdi radiator fittings?
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19 hours ago, landroversforever said:
I've been uploading them from my phone... only thing it has done on a couple of occasions is to put the photo in the wrong orientation.
And yeah, copy & paste on the computer works ok.
I only have this on my messages
Theres no tab to upload files like there is in a post or is it hidden somewhere?🤷♂️
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It would be nice if we were able to add photos directly to messages in the same way as we can when posting.
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You’re primarily concerned with complying with Reg 100 of Con & Use which relates to the condition of a vehicle and any accessories that may present a risk of danger to others.
It’s very wide in its scope and can be applied in all manner of situations. If the steps are a manufacturer approval type, suitable for the vehicle and fitted and maintained correctly then you will be fine.
As an example the same regulation applies when fitting other items that may protrude such as winches or tow hitches.
If you deviate from the original design say for instance by extending your steps outward, then you need to satisfy yourself that by doing so you are not introducing any additional risk for example, injury to pedestrians, even when the vehicle is stationary.
That same legislation also covers maximum allowable vehicle widths which if memory serves is 2.5m for a Landrover type vehicle.
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2 hours ago, Gazzar said:
Good. I had it in the back of my mind that the arm wasn't at 90 degrees when the steering was straight ahead, glad you caught that.
The correct right hand tap isn't terribly dear, so cutting down a longer track rod is a viable option.
Yeah it isn’t straight, Gwyn just sent me a photo from one of his customer’s setup.
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All sorted and hopefully this info will help others in the future.
3.75 turns lock to lock on the P38 box so just a tad under 1.9 turns to the centre.
That aligns the pointer with the V notch on the inside face of the box and places the pitman arm pointing in roughly the 1 o’clock position when viewed from behind.
Re-measuring in this position gives the correct 1015mm distance centre to centre for the drag link ball joints.
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Pneumatic Rivet Gun
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Has anyone tried one of the cheapo pneumatic rivet guns that you can pick up for around £35?
I’m assuming they’re cheap copies when you compare them to the price of some of the better makes but that doesn’t necessarily mean they don’t work ok but they do seem a bit too good to be true.
Anyone used one and has some feedback?
I have a fair bit of riveting to do so I think it would be handy to have one of these on the shelf if they’re ok.