Bigj66
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Posts posted by Bigj66
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34 minutes ago, missingsid said:
Can you not find the centre of the travel by finding out how many turns you have lock to lock as this needs to be the straight ahead point.
I am assuming (as I don't know) that the arm only fits on the steering box shaft in one place? Or at least one obvious place?
I would expect that to be the 90 deg position as well but this would help confirm.
The pitman arm hasn’t been off the box so it should still be in the correct position but I’ll try it lock to lock in case the straight ahead position isn’t the central one. I just thought I’d ask about first in case others had come across it.
On the rear of the box above the steering column UJ there is what looks like an alignment mark and with the pitman arm facing straight ahead this Mark is also in a top centre position. Although this may be unrelated, it did seem to make sense for checking wheel alignment.
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42 minutes ago, David Sparkes said:
Surely you are measuring to the wrong place, 'the centre of the swivel arm'?
The drag link should go from the steering box arm to the front hole (not the centre hole) of the passenger side swivel arm.
I have no idea what length difference this makes, I am just reacting to the curious description.Regards.
Apologies, I should have used the proper terminology. I’ve measured from the centre of the hole in the pitman arm on the box where the ball joint passes through to the centre of the forward most hole on the swivel steering arm attached to the passenger side swivel housing.
The track rod is connected to the rear hole on the steering swivel arm.
The bit I’m uncertain about is whether the pitman arm should be pointing forward at 90 degrees to the axle when measuring or at an angle as that will impact the length of the drag link.
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Has anyone fitted a P38 power steering box to the outside of their chassis and had a drag link made up to connect to the series swivel arm?
If so what was the length of the drag link from the centre of the swivel arm to the centre of the steering box arm with the arm pointing straight ahead?
Mine measures 970mm but Gwyn Lewis supplies them off the shelf and says they should be 1015mm. It’s a big difference.
My wheels are parallel to the chassis and the steering arm is 90 degrees to the axle.
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Am I the only one here who hasn’t got a clue what you IT geeks are talking about? 🤣🤣
I’m a man of simple needs, just want to be able to type my words and post my photos 😉
Can we swear now?
Seriously, it does look ‘fresher’ now so good work 👍
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3 hours ago, Romahomepete said:
Unless you are painting the whole vehicle when buying paint by ref no is OK you are better having an existing panel scanned and the paint matched to that as the paint will already have faded.
Peter
I’m probably not going to be matching any existing panels as most are going to need a repair here and there or a new panel entirely so I’ll be back to bare metal anyway.
A matt finish of the marine blue would be what I’m aiming for so I will probably need to get that mixed as a batch.
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They don’t reuse the nest the following year but will come back to the nest site. You can get powder to put down that will deter them. My workshop is guarded by it. I’ve got it everywhere in the joists.
Your woodpile provides a ready source of nest building materials and winter hibernation for the queens 😉
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On 7/1/2019 at 6:03 PM, Stellaghost said:
They have taste but gonna have to go opened the bonnet of my 2a lightweight and had to run wasps not happy at me disturbing their nest this is the second time I've had wasps in a lightweght hose pipe out later my preferred method is using a can of penetrating oil as a flame thrower but not today
My worst nightmare 😬
I’d have to call in a nuclear strike on them 💥
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45 minutes ago, Snagger said:
Powder coat is an awful thing for vehicles - it chips and the rust spreads underneath, but it’s a pig to sand back and repair. A decent rust preventative primer and decent quality paint are a much better solution.
It’s just something I’m looking into at the moment for the front panel as it’s getting blasted and I don’t want it being left unprotected between the time it’s finished and I can get it home for a coat of primer. If you handle powder coated items with care they’re usually ok.
However, I don’t want to take the chance of a colour mismatch between any colour coat applied by them and the rest that I will apply myself either, so I’ll probably just ask them to apply a primer coat after it’s been taken back to bare metal and finish it myself.
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Reason being is that the front panel has gone off for blasting and powder coating and I have the option to have the powder coating as just a primer or, with the top coat too if I can provide them with the RAL colour. I’ve seen the LR colour reference but also this 5228 RAL number:
https://www.carpentergoodwin.co.uk/Products/Tractor-Paints-Vapormatic-and-Kramp/522812KR
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Can anyone confirm that RAL 5228 is the correct code for Landrover Marine Blue paint?
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Is the exhaust valve bent? Does it move freely within its range of travel without sticking?
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I was on the way to B&Q this afternoon and for the first time ever I passed one of the new Defenders. I was struck by how small it seemed compared to the 110 I was driving.
And the driver didn’t wave........🙄
’Nuff said 😐
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On 8/2/2020 at 9:06 PM, Tranquil said:
Hi,
new to the site. I drove an air portable serving in Cyprus as UN forces in 1975. Now in a position to have one as a fun vehicle as a blast from the past to enjoy with my 2 sons, ( understand the difficulties owning an old one) but youngest has limited use of right arm (accident at age 15) so can only drive an Auto. Any one fitted any sort of engine auto combination into a lightweight.
All advice appreciated,
thanks
I’m fitting a ZF auto to my S3 SWB. I have a build thread in the members section that might give some information. My daughter also has physical limitations which is partly my motivation for doing the conversion.
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Does anyone have a photo of the V8 exhaust down pipes running over the bell housing crossmember on a SWB S3?
I’m trying to establish whether the 3.9 RRC manifolds and non cat downpipe/Y piece will fit in the standard V8 conversion position without modification.
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55 minutes ago, Gazzar said:
Could you get manifolds made for yours? Looking at mine, there's not that much to it, bar thick plate.
I could yes, but at the price I’ve been quoted for the system along it would probably become very expensive and I don’t need the extra power that they may or may not bring so I’m happy with cast manifolds.
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10 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
I honestly doubt it's worth worrying about at this stage, although I can vouch very firmly for Longlife in Basingstoke, they've done several exhausts for me.
Just on that topic, what would be a ball park figure for a stainless V8 system without manifolds but with two silencers? I’ve been quoted £1300 plus vat locally but not sure how that compares against what others have experienced.
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I once had an intermittent fuel pump cut out issue on my RRC. Turned out that the wiring loom was shorting on the exhaust when cornering. Point being that it could be something daft like that so it’s worth eliminating the basics first.
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51 minutes ago, Landrover17H said:
I thought you did? You want a 'deepset' and know I get these measurements somehow. That thread is at 45000 hits all-in. Sadly near all 45000 adopt your approach. I apologise, but rather than carp, I was thinking you'd see the irony, and get your ruler out. You have an ANR1534, but which, I can't tell.
From my previous post.
”I used a spirit level across the rim edge and steel rule to measure the 72mm from the naive outer face. I couldn’t photo it as my hands were full. So just shy of 3”.”
Thanks for you help and information but I now have the answers I needed and I’ve decided to go down a different route now and keep my existing rims.
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5 minutes ago, Landrover17H said:
Really? You've no rims variants of your own? No straight-edge? No metric-ruler? I'm forced to believe you? Your honour, I rest my case.
Yes I have the 6.5” rims that I’ve been posting about since I started this thread.
The sarcasm really isn’t helpful.
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22 minutes ago, Daan said:
The zeus kit looks to me like a total non starter for the reasons stated;
No series wheels on a series?
And non standard consumables. It means you are stuck with them for consumables for ever. Apart from the fact that Zeus could dissapear .
It just does not make sense to me. When the Heystee kit has an option that uses standard landrover consumables and allows you to fit standard wheels.
The only query I have with the Heystee kit is whether the metric hub they provide is the same depth as the RRC one that I’ve used to convert my axle to CVs.
I’ve emailed them to ask.
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7 minutes ago, Landrover17H said:
Now you might see the problem. It's very rare for any to supply precise 'deepset' for their own rims, Steve ^^^ is that decent rarity. Yet many will be quick to ask for info on the other rims. It's taken years to get the info, it should be simple, but it isn't. 272309? I'll dig it out.
Cheers
I’m always happy to share except I don’t have any...🤷♂️
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For anyone researching this conversion, this is the point that the clash between the caliper and the standard ‘L’ profile rim occurs.
The score mark is visible to the left of the rivets.
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272309 looks interesting to me. Is there any information available on what the deepset measurement is for that rim?
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1 minute ago, Landrover17H said:
Your deepset is known (72mm), I wrote a thread on it years back, all in hope of shattering the nonsense on this very confusing subject. But I don't have a precise deepset for the stock SWB & LWB rims, and never have. It's the last piece of the puzzle to evade me. As here, I get a something near.
I trust Gary and his Brummie ruler.👍
Drag link length for P38 power steering
in Series Forum
Posted
Cheers, I think the clue may be in this:
“Then I centred the steering box by rotating the input shaft until the marker on the side of the input shaft aligns with the arrow on the steering box.”
I have that mark facing upwards, 90 degrees from this. I’ll align as that photo and measure again.