Landrover17H

This is simple, and it works - here's mine. What's wrong with something along these lines?

+1. I suppose it depends on how you like your filth, only this is England for chrissakes? I'm not a fan of spares on bonnets, and I'm a near 6 footer. In my book the way to go is a hassle to get right - mine's sat on 3-hinge rear door with a S3 dovetail-mount. A coiler anti-burst latch is swapped-in, hence two dovetails, it can't move or rattle.

Yes, must do mine, currently the whole lot swings in the breeze which has fractured a few bits. I left it knowing full well this would happen, more because I was worried to drill the galved-chassis. Mine's ratty as it gets, so no overly worried, whereas a rotten chassis would have me fretting. Do I read that drawing correctly, there's a bolt-on bracket that saves drilling anyway?

Browsing as you do, spotted this... too few pix to nail precisely; and surely it's cheap enough, but one thing it isn't is a 2.5 Petrol. Careful out there: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184487866730

Here we are: Whilst it's not critical, all you really need is to watch for a change, likely either your gauge or sender will be out of wack, thus a collection of 10 Ω resistors helps if you see an over-read. Bit of Ohms law will work out what you need if it under-reads. Landrover S3 Water Temp Sender 560794.pdf

From my notes: SERIES & 2.5 Petrol Water Temperature sender 560794 Series Water Temperature gauge needs 75 ohms from sender to read normal Thread 5/8" x 18 UNF Brand: Intermotor 52770 Product Code: 52770 TRIUMPH TR 4 2.0 09/1960 12/1965 JAGUAR E-TYPE 4.2 04/1961 04/1975 LAND ROVER 88/109 (LR) 2.3 09/1961 12/1986 JAGUAR S-TYPE 3.4 05/1963 08/1968 JAGUAR S-TYPE 3.8 05/1963 08/1968 LAND ROVER 88/109 Hardtop (LR) 2.3 09/1963 12/1986 JAGUAR E-TYPE 3.8 04/1961 04/1975 JAGUAR E-TYPE Convertible 4.2 04/1961 04/1975 JAGUAR E-TYPE Convertible 3.8 04/1961 04/1975 LAND ROVER 88/109 Hardtop (LR) 2.3 09/1963 12/1986 JAGUAR E-TYPE 2+2 4.2 06/1966 04/1975 JAGUAR E-TYPE 2+2 4.2 06/1966 04/1975 LAND ROVER 88/109 (LR) 2.3 09/1961 12/1986 Cross reference Land rover 555843 , 560794 Smiths TT4801/00A Intermotor 52770 Lucas SNB125 temperature sender Triumph GTR111) I've the Ohms range somewhere.

Well, had a look, and if your poison is a Model T, you're not wrong.

Sounds great. Never seen nor heard of one of those, must be able to find a used one? I shall look-see.

I buy the biggest Yuasa I can get in my rear-sited battery-box, from Halfords. I never get more than 4-5 years out of mine, but I suspect my alternator is not kind to them. I pay the Halfords 14-20% premium over anywhere else because they tend to honour their warranty - which gets used! A Smart-charger is recommended, old skool chargers do more harm than good. I can't see a battery in an EV doing ten years or a million miles (whichever is sooner), but maybe? Cells are not computers/ TV sets / washing-machines that become ever twice as fast, for half the price. We've a box of chemicals, these degrade, and the prices for that finite raw material can only increase. Nonetheless, I'm willing to be proven wrong.

Yes, this is for your Mother right? Somehow I'm thinking, 'Little 'ole lady from Pasadena' she won't be. In stock form there's nothing to worry about. A few modern touches .... radio and heated-screens for winter, but for putterin' about - not much else.

Yup, ".... do not pass Go, do not collect £200" If you're going to that much pain, to not galvanise is just daft. Do the radiator-panel whilst you're on. You'll get all, or maybe add a little more, than you spend in resale. And I'm afraid, 'keeper' or not, that counts... who knows what the future holds, and one day you might want, or forbid, be forced to cash-in? I tell you now, I wouldn't ever consider buying without a galved b/head and chassis, and I'll pay a decent premium for these.

I'm talking about the spray-can stuff. When it's labelled as white-grease it comes cheaper. Would be far better, but I'm unsure how you'd get the old-skool boil-in-a-bath chain-lube into springs in-situ? Don't rebuild 'em, staart with WD40, spray as much as you can and hit the speed-bumps at 35-40mph. Rinse and repeat. They'll shift. 3-400 miles should improve them lots, and by 1500 they'll be dandy. Then white-grease etc. But for chrissakes, raise your backside as you do this, or you're set to impact a vertebrate.

Yes, in short if you drive the thing, you'll not need to do much. 1500 miles and a chiropractor's bill will sort all but the very worst. Springs stay decent, because they're moving. But, if we're pretending the rust finds you out. You'll spot a LR poseur a mile off, the springs are still seized 3-4 inches from the U-bolts, or there's talk of 'faker' snot.... you know the kind of thing, parabollox/ stickers/ snorkels / gay-plate blah... Lest we forget the angle-grinder boots w/ cnut-hat Have fun.

Thanks for that Troy, that was to be my next question. Better get him decent safety-kit. Out of the blue he hit upon the idea of spraying a tatty toolbox trailer I have, and the result made me chuckle. I'll put that, and pics of the er... outcome in another thread.

The time and effort to do any decent job will be considerable, and even if it's a keeper and you're not of the rivet-counting persuasion it'll be better to pay thru' the nose for the 'proper' item. Because of course, anything can be done, but unless you truly enjoy doing this stuff, there's no good reason. Mine's a rolling collection of S2 and S3 parts, a proper Heinz 57, and it won't be sold. It's got galved everything. Nonetheless I regard it as prudent to have one eye on resale, just because. It's a difficult call to make. I often look at the work and often misdirected hours put into some classic cars, only to be left wondering? "Yes, but why?" It's never the owner that truly sees the fruits. But the flipside shows cars that are a wonder, hence my adage is to do what I want to, but it pays not to get too carried away.

I could swear I placed this in the Defender section. Clearly I didn't or our Idi Admin has moved it? Looks wholly a lump of plastic to me, but now you mention it I see what looks like a row of pop-rivets? I've a Defender version in mine. Works better but, as you said - with so many other holes about, it'll never be great.

Life of everything else has to far improved. I'm not sure mileage is the issue, the chemical cocktail that is a modern battery still breaks-down in 4-5 years, and if we can do a million odd miles in that period, I'm sure the battery is good for it. But if we've only done 10,000, the a battery is still kaput, no? On the flip-side, the electric motor sits barely run in.

Now we've truly hi-jacked this thread, but I wonder why French authority prevents you doing this, seems odd? But even if you could, it'll cost you £3-5000 in cells alone. And just like a mobile phone 2 years later the thing will be under-charging thus running shorter times than new. By 5-6 years those cells are junk. Hence £3-5000 gets trashed? Then you do it all over again. My way, you do it almost once, I concede cylinders need swapping-out every 20 years, and they're not cheap, but half the price of cells. You're doing this every 20 years, not 5, thus i put it to you, the cylinders are roughly eight times cheaper. And you don't feck your LR doing it. I could remove my set-up inside two hours, and you'd not know it was ever on there. Swapping a battery over in your mobile or throwing the whole phone away works when we're talking £30 for a battery or even £300 for a whole phone. But when £5000 is trashed... Nope, I don't get this electric thing, it 'sounds' good, yet borders on stupidity.

Only a day or two ago I fired a query at you blokes about identification of an air-filter box seen in a Series. You all seemed to swat it back at me with a clear answer in hours, so if you don't mind, can I throw another at you? Seen here is a Series with a 2.5 17H Petrol sitting in it, but it's the heater-box that catches the eye. I'm afraid, found listed in eBay, these are the only pix I have. Series heaters are a legend for not being up to much. Top right of last piccy shows it best.... what's this we're looking at, is it a Defender heater-box from later? Why the moulded-arm shown Bottom-right of first piccy?

So it 'fell' out of a Discovery 1? Good. Surface area is King. That'll breathe better than the oil-bath, Series owners would have anyone that'll listen believe their oil-bath is an Air-filter Holy Grail'. Haven't looked but I suspect a quality Discovery 1 filiter is under a tenner on eBay too. Thanks gents.

Flicking thru' eBay as you do, I spotted this. It's a 17H 2.5 petrol now living in a Series. But the air-filter housing appears more modern. I ask this question here, because I was reckoning one of you is more likely to know than Series owners. What are we looking at?

I take your point, back in the day the utilities, construction companies, military and emergency services took the bulk to 109/110s. I don't know who was buying the Santana PS10, seems to have sold to those that shy of the pennies would have bought the LR original. There was no PS10 take-up from the utilities etc, which with it being a Defender but cheaper, surprises a little. But then if you're a fleet-manager, even if they turn bad, you'll not face the firing-line for buying LR product.

Sitting here in SE England there's a fee-paying school near me surrounded by the leafier lanes of this fair isle. It's part of the uniform, come turning-in and turning-out times, all you'll see is line-upon-line of Range Rooneys with spatterings of Merc's own RR equivalent, and the odd Discovery. I see the queue every morning and afternoon, and I'll concede, there's one 110, but not a Jap offering in sight. When the Grenadier comes to market, I'd make a large bet not one makes that queue. It just won't happen, the badge is wrong for a start. I do wonder, but you get the picture... that is today's 4x4 buyer. There's a state-school about a mile on, it differs slightly. Here you'll see rather more aspirational choices. The standard crop of Jap MPV's, most in the obligatory housing-estate white; the women are larger, the vehicles smaller, and there's no more surprises. Whilst there's greater chance, I can't truly see a Grenadier being a better fit there either. The Grenadier generates interest in this parish because it's pitched closest to our beloved 88/90/109/110. It's aiming for what we say we'd like to buy. There's a big but... is that the same as actually buying? With Snagger et al perhaps the greater exception, what people say they want, and what their wallet says are two very different things. The 4x4 market has moved on. To be truly successful, the Grenadier is forced to deliver pram-appeal, and in that market or any other, I just can't see where it fits in great number.

We're rather wandered from the' fit or sh#t?' question, but I get round it thus... Not really sure why electric is so 'on-trend'. I suppose it's a bit more Guardian-reader than my approach. Some of you have read my posts, so know how I do this. I've been filling-up and charging my vehicles via what's readily piped into our homes, and doing this for nearer 10 years. It's a helluva lot cheaper to do and run than some mincing electric conversion. The insistence for electric, when most of us have gas piped-in baffles me. First had my 'light-bulb-moment' when I saw this being done with my local ice-rink's Zamboni, and whilst most fork-lifts use LPG, the bigger fleets pump the same as me. Still, takes all sorts. Maybe I'd grasp why it must be electric when I get round to de-platforming Germaine Greer, campaigning against 70s TV sitcoms, and have my gender-reassignment surgery sorted. Until then...

That sounds highly likely. There's going to be no money, and by this we mean taxation for chasing it. If you want the truth to most things, follow the money; or in this case, clear lack of it. We're seen as the odd crack-pot running about in a Morris Minor, most doing minimal miles to minimal effect? And broadly that's true. It's a pure conceit to think they should care?