TheRecklessEngineer

That's exactly what I mean. You only just need to see what's passing through the fuel line - they're not actually filtering anything. Another option is a bit of clear fuel hose.

Not impossible. If parked up, air gets in and the system drains back to the tank until it bleeds again when you start the engine? I've seen it happen, but only on vehicles without lift pumps. I'd have thought the valves in the lift pump would stop it draining back. Rather than grasping at straws, stick a clear filter on the injection pump inlet. You'll clearly see if it's an air problem or not.

Sounds to me like an air leak in a fuel line somewhere. Before you go pulling heads off, just stick a clear filter before the injection pump. Start it up in the circumstances you've noticed the problem and verify that no air is being pushed into the injection pump with the fuel. White/grey smoke if not water getting in somewhere is normally fuel related. As air gets into the injection lines and is compressible, it has the effect of retarding the timing - hence the white smoke. Seen it too many times to count.

My money is on the vacuum pump.

Yes, you are right. Obviously my home-brew did the job. The only other thought that occurs to me (now sober) is have you gone the right way? Have you tried: A - 3 & 2 B - 1 & 6 C - 8 & 5 D - 4 & 7

Don't forget that it's two rotations of the flywheel for every firing cycle. Therefore, by shifting the plug leads around as you have, you've shifted the firing angle 180 degrees relative to the flywheel. (I've had several pints of home-brew, so the above might not be correct.)

Seeing as the question is about the power plant, and not the storage of the power. Electric. There's no contest.

RS232 is the specification for the type of signalling used. It can be carried by any connector - even cables in screw terminals in some cases. It is true that one of the more common connectors is a 9-pin D-sub type connector, although it was the 25 pin D-sub type that was originally recommended. You should check the pinout of your 25 pin D-sub to ensure that it is actually a normal implementation. The best USB-RS232 adapters use chips made by FTDI. Make sure you get one, you could save yourself a world of pain. If you fancy some light reading material: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RS-232

There's always Colin White Services in Glastonbury - a LR breakers yard. I only ever go there when I'm desperate. They're expensive and customer service is non existent. But they've got me out of a bind on a few occasions.

I squirted and EDIS'd a Nissan straight 6 and used the default RV8 map. Tweaked the ReqFuel value for the injector/engine size, but that was it. Fired first time and ran like a sewing machine.

Your turbo won't make boost if you haven't got fuel. If you've got a fuel problem then you're barking up the wrong tree with the turbo.

I suppose there wouldn't be anything stopping you from creating a small device in place of the gearbox ECU, connected to MS via serial/CAN bus/whatever to read the appropriate data. Could be an interesting project for someone who develops embedded systems...

Partially. If you have two non identical batteries connected together and resting then they will fight. If you have two batteries connected together that are always being charged/discharged then they will be fine. If you have two batteries that are disconnected from each other when resting, but connected when being charged/discharged then they will also be fine.

Nige....You are a troll.

The first time I saw MS running an engine was about 10 years ago. I think it's well proved now.

You can rewire the Thor loom into banks A and B without issue. Of course, if you build a loom from scratch, then you can do what you like. I might be wrong - it's been a little while since I was actively involved in MS, but I don't think there is an off the shelf kit specifically for Thor engines. The closest available is what Nige is currently working on. It sounds like it's very nearly in production - I'd drop him an email and see what bits he's willing to sell you.

The only part of the MS1 kit that is under development is the bits that are specific to THOR. Buying an MS3 'kit' would amount to buying a bare bones kit - It'll still be down to you to source/make all of the brackets, sensors, ignition components etc etc. There is no full MS3 kit available specifically for THOR - only generic versions. It's also pretty rare to be running MS3 on a rover V8 - so you'll have very little help in terms of base parameters to get your engine running. It'd be like building a supercomputer from scratch, and compiling an operating system from source in order to browse Facebook. A much better option would be to buy a standard machine ready made. You might need to tweak it here and there, but it'll work out of the box. And if it doesn't you can call for help. Buy me a plane ticket and I'll install it for you.

Yes, I'll second this one. The Lucas injection pump (IIRC) uses the fuel as a hydraulic fluid inside the pump. If you have an air leak then it can play havoc with the injection parameters. This is the reason why engines with the Lucas pump have a return to/from the filter from the injection pump and a feed to/from the filter from the tank - it's much more robust at feeding air free fuel to the injection pump.

I think they're brilliant, and anyone doubting that should buy one immediately. This one looks good. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=89340

I've got an 80 series. I haven't really challenged it enough to form an opinion of how strong it actually is, but it's built like a tank.

I looked at this. But I found it was easier just to fit a td5 speedo and sensor. Of course, that's not the point, but I had so many other projects on my plate I just needed a working speedo.

Are you 100% certain your plug leads are in the right order?

Only on a distributor Nige! EIDS won't care about 180 degrees out. I must confess I thought exactly the same as Bowie 69 - plug leads in the wrong order or timing wrong.

Yes. Bang on. It has gone a bit quiet on here. I'm interested to know how the OP is getting on...

As EDIS is wasted spark, it won't matter if it's 180 degrees out.