fmmv

So would you expect to adjust pinion to get drive and coast more or less equally placed, then adjust the CW to get them in the right place? Thats just inferred from what you posted, not knowledge.

I do wonder if the case spreads and relaxes much in use and alters the settings. The standard cover won't give it much stiffening.

I think the pinion marking reflects its desired position relative to the CW as a matched pair. Presumably that as a result of manufacturing variations.

If you are going to let the oil lubricate you need the RTC3511 seal for the hub. And its a good idea to be sure the breather is clear, if blocked it can cause leaks ( guess how I know).

I'd put some ant-seize of some kind on the trackrod threads. Those jam nuts get very tight after they have been on a while.

Ignoring technical differences years back it was possible to insure a 300tdi much more cheaply for an 18 year old driver. That may have changed of course.

A friend used to run a circular on a static converter. You could switch the converter for different loads. For the saw, he had to run another 3 phase motor, just a motor, in parallel to generate the third phase I guess. There won't be great starting torque I would guess, if it is clutched that is probably no matter. Single phase motors are essentially 2 phase. The second phase, usually not as beefy a winding as the main one, sometimes is live all the time via a permanent run capacitor, and sometimes is just a start winding via a much larger capacitor which is switched out by a centrifugal switch. Some motors have both capacitors ( cap start, cap run, the start cap is switched out) The motors with a run capacitor tend to pass less run current than just capacitor start. If you need high start torque you need a start capacitor.

Some(most?) 3 phase motors can be wired star for 415v or delta for 230v. It just depends how you connect the windings. As 3 phase mains is 415v across phases, ie 230v from each phase to neutral, most motors come wired star. But for a VFD or converter you may, but not necessarily, have to change to delta, ie 230v depends on the device. That said, if you want to just run the motor at a single speed, it's probably simplest to just get a new single phase motor.

I have this to do so your experience is very useful.

Slight hijack but on rhis subject, the later plastic fuel tanks seem to have a breather with a rollover valve, either dirctly on the tank or teed into the breather that is part of the filler. Do these not need to be extended like the rear axle breather to a height where water is unlikelt to be?

A VFD will also let you brake the lathe electrically, handy if bits of your offal that still have nerves linked to your brain are trapped in it. They may not be very powerful on paper but lathes nevertheless don't mind hurting you.

That's very neat. Inspirational even. And gives a lot more thread than just a tapped hole.

I hadn't considered it might be aesthetically challenged. It can't stick out much more than standard as it would clash with the Panhard rod. The pirate writeup suggests trimming it down. I was trying to avoid welding a guard on as they seem to be mud traps. But thanks for the feedback I hadn't seen one on here.

Yes, thanks, actually I knew about the Gwynn offerings, and doubtless they fit nicely, are super strong and do the job. But I thought, maybe foolishly, where's the fun in that, if I have to weld it on anyway (which you do with any replacement) why not use one of these; if it works I have 4 more axles that could do with that treatment, and it's a bit cheaper.

Just wondered if anyone has replaced the diff pan with a steel pipe cap recently on a Rover long nose axle? Eg link I am cleaning up a front axle case to replace the case on my daughter's 2013 90 (one of the ones that can break but isn't covered by the LR recall). It occurred to me that while I had it in bits would be a good time to do this. Just looking for any tips or experience.

That is very good advice

We are just assuming it is the turbo here. Was it very smoky when it ran away? It must have been sucking oil from the intercooler if so, maybe it just burned what it had. Was the engine smoky before this happened? There may be another cause (I can't think what) so be careful if you decide to try a start.

I guess one question is how much oil remains in the sump? If a reasonable amount, maybe it just stopped, still with oil pressure, and assuming it was the turbo( how else?) maybe it just needs a new cassette. Does the engine turn over smoothly by hand? Is the breather clear, if blocked that can pressurize the engine and force oil out of the turbo?

I have seen lathes sat on a kind of low loader frame with castors, and feet to wind down and level it when in position

Britool ones work for me

How public spirited of you

Mea culpa. I agree completely; I would rank a live centre as 'essential', a QCTP as 'desireable'. It hadn't occurred to me the OP may not have a live centre with the lathe.

That looks very nice indeed. Result. Probably could do with a clean, but hey that's no problem. I would add a quick change toolpost sometime to the shopping list (lathes are like horses or Land Rovers, buying it is just the start, the tip of the iceberg). A QCTP is good as you don't have to keep setting the heights of tools, you can set them up in a holder and then just swap them in, otherwise it can get a bit of a chore. But what a great start. It's worth making a cover out of wood to go over the bed for when you are changing chucks, then if you drop one it won't ding the bed. Or handy if you are doing something dirty (like tacking something held in the chuck)

It's always struck me as odd that the kits often include the pulley ( which shouldn't wear out quickly) but not the O ring behind or the oil seal which probably do benefit from renewal.

If you can get one, especially on a small lathe, a gap bed is useful if you might turn larger things.