fmmv

If you can find one the Bearmach pulleys used to be really good, in one piece rather than the spot welded on flanges. And they seem to last well.

Great idea, what else can you do with an old X5?

The drain on mine is quite a large diameter, and I did not have a suitable copper washer, had to improvise by converting a large copper coin, but worth getting a washer in advance

There are relays designed for CAN vehicles that are triggered by vehicle lights but switch an independent power source. It occurred to me one might use something like that and cut off its power except when towing to prevent access to electrics.

There's an argument to feed all trailer lights especially indicators through diodes, to stop criminal ace wholes from backfeeding through the plug, which might or might not affect alarm arrangements. Or maybe have a switched plug.

Or, I am no TD5 expert, but I understand they will run fine with the air flow sensor unplugged, using default values. That should let you eliminate that from your investigation (or not).

Or try Pioneer4x4. I have no links or experience of them, just noticed what they offered

If its oil on the clutch there is often a judder. The clutch adjustment is worth checking, but it sounds like you need a clutch. The bad news is rhat TD5s have a dual mass flywheel and that should be changed as well, so it is more expensive The good news is it's still cheaper than a gearbox. In the meantime avoid towing and change down early. One other thing worth checking before changing the clutch, on TD5 is the fuel pressure regulator on the side of the engine at the top. They can leak and the fuel gets down into the clutch area, causing slip sometimes.

Hi, oil leaks are standard, no delete option, but they are anti rust. Re the slipping, could it have been the clutch? Did the engine speed up and then it seemed to ' grip' again. If so clutch slip is normally the sign of a worn out clutch, top gear typically is where it makes its presence felt. Try driving up a hill in 5 th then briefly dipping the clutch. It should grip and jerk you forward. If you get an effect like an automatic, thats clutch slip, or it can be caused by the dual mass flywheel,ease off the throttle, and change down. You can nurse it around like that for a bit but you'd need a clutch. On rhe other hand if its jumping out of gear it may be something worse.

I echo a liking for Koni shocks. My 90 ('97) is on Konis and standard springs, and rides much better than my daughter's ('13), all stock.

Have a look on ebay; led kits uaed to be sold on there.

Mike at Britannia Restoration has a video on the rear seal. He reckons the seal itself doesn't leak, it's from the bottom of the carrier.If you use the Turner ones you may need to drill and tap a couple of small new holes, but probably worth the effort to avoid leaks

You don't care about degreasing after that

Or Bulgin Buccaneer - look very similar to the Amphenol

Not everywhere quite that expensive, for instance

The drain on my 300tdi is fluoro lined silicon (it's a VNT) held on with jubilee clips, and it survives. It is moulded to do the job though but that seems fine. Maybe something like this would help

One of the cheapest places for Konis is Larkspeed - not 320 though unfortunately.

Can I please ask where can one buy 4 Konis for 320?

Yes absolutely, sorry, didn't notice it was a link

Manual can be downloaded foc, just google it.

That figures: you'd expect the egt to be lower with more boost assuming similar levels of fuel. I think it's important to cool it before switching off if it has worked hard.

Interesting to see intercooler inlet temp that high. I think the 750 deg is for the oil as much as anything, we used to have a Saab 900 for many years, and a fast B road drive would get the manifold and turbo glowing, quite orange, but we never had any turbo issues; the bearing was water cooled.

There are some clues in the URL too...

Or maybe the engine to body earth strap isn't very tight,(you did say the engine had been changed) if so it earths through rhe handbrake cable which doesn't do that any good

If you paint them, it's important to put the etch primer on within about 20 minutes of scuffing, for best effect, as aluminum oxidizes rapidly.