reb78

Just re-read their email - It was my oversight - they actually said remove the cam - i couldn't get it out last night. But i wiggled some more and then a bit more and used a magnet to pull it out and finally it did. Revealed the last circlip which i removed and now the thing is in peices ready to put back together and on the landy tommorow. No doubt there will be a saga with that and i'll be back on here then venting my frustration again!

I've rotated, i've pulled, i've pushed one bit while rotating another and pulling a third. I've sworn a lot and thrown things (not the OD yet around the garage)!!! But as yet without success. I also smell of EP90 that had leaked into the OD and is now all over me! Devon emailed me to say remove the oil pump but didn;t tell me how - am waiting for their reply to that question...

I phoned them this morning. They have just got back to me. I haven't removed the oil pump and apparently i need to as their is another circlip behind it. I just can't see how the oil pump comes out. Glad i resisted just hitting it with a hammer in case it was stiff!!

Hi, The overdrive is off the vehicle to change the seals and orange bearing on the mounting plate after the oil sucking problem i posted about recently. It had also been weeping oil from one of the two gaskets either side of the black ring that sits half way down the body. I have borrowed this picture below from one of sean101s posts: The red line encirles three bits i cannot seperate, the yellow arrows show the gaskets either side of the black metal ring. I have removed the back cover and pistons and the circlip that holds the mainshaft in the oil pump cam. I have also removed the circlip at the forward end of the mainshaft. It simply won't pull apart and i don't want to force it and break it!! I need to remove the bit arrowed in green in order to removethe black metal ring and change both the gaskets i was trying to get to. It was only weeping a tiny bit of oil from these gaskets and i wish i'd left it alone now! It was off the vehicle to change the oil seals between the mounting plate and transfer box and i thought i'd do this job at the same time. I just can't see what else to remove other than two rather inaccessible circlips inside the main body of the OD. These can be seen after removing the bottome (square) plate. Any advice appreciated - its not going anywhere like this!!

I'm not sure if this is right, but I thought you had to check the boost with the engine under strain i.e. the vehicle moving foot flat down in 3rd accelerating? Might be why the figure was low (or i misunderstood what you wrote and you did this anyway!)

Guppy, I'm in Hertfordshire, so this may not be any use to you - I do have the filter housing for a TD, but i have sold the pipes. PM me if the housing is any use to you. As a quick fix do what Ralph suggests...... (would this mean you'd not advise motorway/hard work until the cooler is working though Ralph?)

Thanks. I did think it looked and smelt a little like EP90 when i drained it (perhaps i didn't overfill it that much and it was sucking oil instead). Looks like it may have to come off and have the big end bearing and transfer case oil seal replaced as in this thread: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...l=overdrive+oil I thought i'd read all the threads on these units on here, but more keep popping out of the woodwork! I'll have to contact devon 4x4 for the parts.....

Several people have said the rangie seats are too high. I don;t know what i've done differently when i fitted mine to the 110, but i have my seat base tilted fully back and my thighs don't rub the steering wheel and i have plenty (4-6 inches) of headroom above my head. I'm 6 ft tall. I much prefer this driving position to the old flatter seats.

Ok, Confession time - i checked the level this morning and quite a few glugs of oil came out for it to level off (would estimate just over 100ml)! The oil level probably sat towards the top of the filler plug so way too much oil in it. I guess it was on more of a slope than i thought when i last checked the level! It was not on a slope this morning! Hopefully that will solve the problem of it spewing oil out. What came out definately wasn't red anymore though.

Thats interesting. What type if ATF are you trying out of interest? It smells like you describe as well. I'll check the oil level tomorrow as i've had a look and it was on a slight slope when i checked it last time. I can't get mine near 85mph (except down hills!). Fitting the OD does seem to have slowed the 110 down a little (even with it not engaged). Has anyone else had this? My theory is that there is more to turn and therefore more power is used turning the running gear. Its a standard 200tdi. It runs really well, but would do 85 in 5th on the flat before I fitted the OD, now its pretty hard to get it there. Was thinking of having the pump and boost pressure checked, removing the centre silencer on the exhaust and later in the year fitting a larger intercooler. (I don't want stunning top speeds just useable power).

The only other thing i can think of doing is to check i've not overfilled it - pretty sure i've not as i'm quite careful with that sort of thing. Mine has the white plastic pot so it should work ok as you describe.

I'm using Castrol ATF - the same as what i've put in the Manual gearbox. I couldn't find a specification for the oil other than 'approved ATF' in the fitting instructions. This is the first time its spewed the oil out of the breather - its not done it on any of the shorter journeys i've done with it (50 miles or less). It seemed like it was engaging/disengaging in quick succession on the slip road (it did one more time after that and then was fine). Will check the connections tommorow. Would a faulty oil pump cause this fault (i can see how it may cause the spillage)?

Its as the title says really. I've just driven 150 miles from somerset on the motorway and twice during the journey i thought i could smell oil. On having a look inder the bonnet, some oil has come out of the overdrive breather pipe (there wasn't a lot of it but it didn't look red -perhaps due to the small amount). I noticed that JST had a similar problem on a thread he wrote which is in the tech archive (point 11) http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=2785 Is this at all normal? Its a secondhand unit, so should have worn in already, but guess it was totally drained of oil when I bought it so it may suffer similar problems to JST. The breather setup is the same as the one Les installed in the tech archive on here. After the journey, it did seem a bit jerky after i had switched the overdrive off i.e. on the slip road slowing down, flicked the OD off fine, seconds later it almost kangarooed a little in 5th (still at 50mph so not too slow). Seems ok now though. One other thing i noticed - i blew down the breather pipe (as you do!) after i'd fitted the unit to check all the jubilee clips were done up ok. The pressure built up and i stopped but there was a faint hiss coming from the transfer box breather. Does this indicate a seal on its way out between the overdive and the transfer box?

Range Rover front seats transformed mine. I can drive in comfort all day now. I'm 6ft tall and have no problems with headroom either.

My landy won't fit in my garage (!) so wont this rule out welding on anything other than a completely still day? I intend to use gas when i can but wanted the ability to use gasless. Also, this is what it came with and i was desperate to practice so needed to set it up right!

Hi all, Just got my brand new Butters AMT 170C out of the box. Am setting it up to run with gasless wire which requires me to reverse the polarity. There is nothing in the instructions about this (it does support gasless wire though cos i double checked it when i bought it). So have i got this right: 1. When using gas, the earth cable on the machine connects to the negative inside (above the wire feed) and the positive connection is to the collar around the wire? 2. When using gassless, 1 is reversed - the earth connects to the positive terminal inside the machine and the negative connection is to the collar around the wire? Thanks

Its here in this picture. Its 21.5 inches from flat end to point. The circular cut out sits around the head of the crank bolt (one the pulley is removed as Les showed above). Two of the bolts that attach the pulley can then be used to attach the bar to the damper. The pointed end of the bar sits under the chassis rail (drivers side) and above the axle - therefore wedging against one or the other depending on whether or not you're undoing or doing up the bolt. Use a strong bar to construct it - weaker stuff will just bend. I just looked at the tools out there to do this job and made my own version......

Its really easy to make a tool to do this. You need a strong length of iron about 2ft, so that you can cut out a semi circle at the end which fits around the crank bolt (after the pulley has been removed). You then drill out holes so you can bolt this length to the damper/where the pulley bolted on. Once bolted in place, one end of the bar tucks under the chassis rail - this stops the shaft turning as you undo the crank bolt - you do need a long breaker bar to get it undone though! Easy and quick tool to make - only need an angle grinder and a drill and it will be used time and time again and is useful for doing the bolt up tight as well...............

There was that defender in LRO recently that had a ton of teak trim on the outside - Someone in the middle east had commisioned it i think. Perhaps that inspired this item you've found..........

Have a look at the link Monster put above - its what i thought of when I read this post. Here it is again: http://www.serie2a.dk/English%20series2a/2...%20Defender.htm Don't know how well it works, but it can be done apparently!

Thanks for all the advice guys. The instructions do say to use sealant which i did - so hopefully any gaps left by the torn gasket will be filled by that. It doesn;t seem to be leaking at the moment but will keep an eye on it. The overdrive itself is great. Really reduces the motorway revs - much more pleasant at 70mph now. It does seem a little clunky when switching it off (its fine wnen engaging the OD) but I guess this requires me getting used to when to turn it off/on etc. I screwed the control unit to the front of the fusebox cover in the end. The wiring runs up to the gear lever and then uner the carpet to the control unit.

I was going to stick it on the dash above the fusebox, but will have a look at putting it in the tool box. What did you splice into for the power supply? I was going to run it off of the power to the indicators and dash lamps.

Cheers. I'll give it a go and see. I can always whip it off and forget about the gaskets completely then.

My set from them were really tight onto the L shaped pipe at the end near the inlet manifold. It went on in the end but it was tricky. They should all be the same size.

Was hoping you were on here......... I've only just put it on there as this will be the first time the vehicles had an overdrive. I noticed it just after fitting the main unit! Guess i shall take it out later and keep an eye on it over the next few days. I've got a feeling the sealant will fill any gaps, but i just hate it when things like this tear! On with the wiring now then!