reb78

Lots of info here and also some offerings of possible wheels. May consider one myself, but haven;t checked out the competition and other prices yet... http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/moto_lita_steering_wheel.shtml

I don;t think you need to remove the sump again yet. Follow the trail of oil up the engine. Does it come from higher up above the sump was what i was asking really? It could be leaking well above the sump and then pooling in that area before dripping down the flywheel housing. What engine are we talking about? (my reply above was about a 200tdi). A lot of people are using liquid gaskets now i think and a combination of that and a proper gasket often ensures that the a replaced gasket is not at fault.

My first thought would be a faulty lift pump.

Only gonna be the crank seal if its actually coming out of the drain hole i would have thought? Is the top of the flywheel housing covered in oil? i.e. is your leak higher up? I posted on here last week about a similar issue and Les and Ralph replied to suggest that the small semicircular seal at the back of the rocker cover may be leaking and/or the rocker cover. I had oil dripping from the bottom of the flywheel housing that was escaping from much higher up. Now changed the seals and hopefully solved the issue. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=41503

Thats how mine was done.........

Put a picture up.... I think you mean the point where the rod inserts that the main gearlever pushes back and forth to engage gear. You don;t mean the reverse switch do you? - thats the bit with the wires coming out. The 'plug' you mean is in the centre? If this is what i describe, you could grease it.

Thanks Les, I hope its as simple as that!

Hi, I have an oil weep that may well turn into a leak. Its a 200tdi defender engine. First noticed as oil was dripping from the bottom of the fly wheel housing. My first thought was the crankshaft oil seal - looking through the flywheel drain hole, its bone dry in there and the oil isn;t dripping from the hole. Its coming from much higher up, seeping down the offside of the engine and dripping from the lowest point. The top of the flywhel housing is covered in oil and the small section of headgasket that you can see at the back of the head (nearest the bulkhead) also looks soaked in it. The leak seems to originate in the area of the lifting eye thats bolted to the block near the bulkhead - perhaps just above this. Are there oil channels from head to block at the back of the engine that may be leaking through the headgasket? The Rocker cover gasket may be leaking, but there doesn;t seem to be much oil that high up. Its not losing any noticeable amounts of oil, but this may change. Any thoughts? What else is at the back of the engine that might leak oil?

Just a thought, but if your insurance companies found out vehicles were left unlocked or even with the keys in, they would not pay out in the event of a theft.

Devon 4x4 were good - i know they're miles away from you, but they offered free delivery on my order and were cheaper than anywhere else i tried.

How big is the bottle? will any of these do? http://www.x-eng.co.uk/QuickFist.asp

Was it the one on the gearstick? Mine went back on the landy today afer a complete strip down - seems to work ok at the moment with no leaks yet (don;t wish to speak too soon!)

Still think you should start the vehicle up, put the transfer box in neutral then the main box in third and see if the noise is there. If it is, its not your drivetrain after the transfer box - will save time dropping props etc to check UJs. When mine did this, everyone said it was the UJ and it was actually the transfer box.

Doh. I ought to know that! Yep as Ralph says, the lights are normal for the first two points, should flash if you try to engage under 30. Are the solenoid connections OK?

Check the connections in the top of the gear knob. Check the earths there are two and probably check where the power supply is connected. There is a fused wire from that. Other than that, Devon 4x4 are very helpful. The light may be an error code that they will know. Mines in bits at the moment - goes back together on Saturday hopefully!

Don't know if this is too late, but this chap was advertising rear cross members on LRO. They looked pretty heavy duty and like they would last... http://www.lro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27874 Don't know who he is, just thought the price was pretty good and he'd modify them to suit your needs.

Mine did what you describe and it was a fault with the transfer box. Does it do it under load with main box in gear and the transfer box in neutral - that would tell you if its one of the boxes or the props onwards. Try that first then try examining and greasing the UJs.

I guess in that case you have no choice - i guess it should be ok, just ideally its worth doing at the same time the rest of the belt/cover is off... Where abouts are you?

Admiral are awful - would not reccomend them to anyone. I had a claim where a pothole knackered two wheels on my car and they needed to be pushed every bit of the way to getting it settled and their 'repairers' were appalling (failed to spot bent wheels - visibly bent). Three years later i got the claim settled in my favour (against Transport for London) but only cos i pushed them the whole way!! Steer well clear because in the unfortunate event you do need to claim they are absolutely no help whatsoever!

This has been covered time and time again - a quick search of the forum reveals: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...mp;hl=insurance http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...mp;hl=insurance http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...mp;hl=insurance I'm with the NFU and think they are excellent.

You can't just say that you won;t use the seats though - you would have to re-classify it as you have done. I had this problem with my mums 110 when i was under 21 - i couldn;t drive it and thats on an older style licence (passed 1996 before the theory test etc came in). I just had to wait until i was 21.

Its not worth not spending the extra pennies and five minutes changing the tensioner now. If it does fail because the tensioner seizes or something you will kick yourself because of the damage it will cause.

Yep thats it - the box in the pic just above the top of the injector pump. The vaccum line passes across the box inthe photo. Just remove the screws and grease..........

I agree with Ralph and Les. You may as well change those seals while the cover is off (and the cam belt and tensioner as well really)

Its attached to the clutch master cylinder - the 6 screws attaching the plate just below the master cylinder - right next to the brake servo. It usually has the accelerator pedal attahed or passing right over the top of it. Just remove the plate and oil all below it.