reb78

I've seen this a few times reported on here now. Worries you a little really when you rely on these parts to stop the vehicle!

My towbar doesnt bolt to the face - it bolts up underneath, but i guess i could still do what you suggest from top to bottom...

The reason i haven;t just boxed it up was because i was worried about creating traps for all the muck that the old crossmembers had and hence causing the same rust problems. I guess i need to make sure its sealed to avoid that, but i do need access to bits in order to attach the towbar nuts and bolts. The simplicity of leaving it open appeals as it will be easy to clean and treat any rust that appears. I suppose i could weld the nuts on the inside to they are always static. As for the shape - i just liked it! And i guess if i ever do any extreme off roading (unlikely) the angles at the edges may be of benefit..

A chap from LRO manufactured this for me Question is, do you reckon i need to put plates on the back and effectivley seal it to strengthen it like les did on the one he manufactured in the tech archive? This is 6mm steel and the flat section at the top and bottom has been pressed not welded. The angled parts have been welded up. I'll definately put another plate across the back where the towbar will attach, but do i need more? I will also weld on sections that will slip ober the chassis bars but the chassis is in suprisingly good nick, no these will only slip over the end much like the original crossmember did.

I think the second leak could be one of three things. 1. gearbox output seal 2. transfer box input seal 3. there is an O ring on the end of the intermediate shaft that is prone to wear and leaking - IIRC you can see the attachment of end of the intermediate shaft in the body of the TXB casing - a black ring with a hex head shaped hole in it. The O rings go and with wear, the actual hole in the TXB case can elongate so that the ring no longer seals. Mine leaks from here but it is really slight - when it goes completely i shall replace the box. Is the fluid ATF or EP90?

They'll run without the pump - not the best, but they do go, so the switch might be better placed on the stop solenoid and disguised or hidden somewhere. Although i suppose a switch on the oump might make the theif easier to catch whilst driving away with your landy!

Where it says radiator only - i think that includes the oil cooler since that is integral. The expensive ones are the framework and intercooler as well.

Easier to stick with what you have then, otherwise your levers will be in the wrong place - its the input shaft that is a different length IIRC. It is possible though - 2 threads on LRO about this at the moment. If your old box is in bad nick, maybe consider it... http://www.lro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22397 http://www.lro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35742 To be honest, the increase ratio on 5th on the disco LT77 wasn;t that noticeable on mine. The tdi boxes are considered 'stronger' though. Ratios here: http://members.shaw.ca/red90/gears.html or check out www.ashcroft.co.uk for more technical information on the boxes. Are you fitting the disco transfer box? It is a higher ratio on the Hi gears than the old defender one. If you do a lot of motorway work, might be worth it, if you do a lot of towing it might not.. It should fit on your old gearbox if you decide to keep that (might have to check the input gears are the same number of teeth first).

I think the LT77 from a tdi has a slightly higher ratio on 5th and a better syncro. It might be worth using the tdi gearbox - if its from a defender (diso ones are more hassle to fit). My advice before you fot the engine is check the output shafts on both gearboxes and use the one with the least wear. I didn;t check this, used the newer box, which had a lot of wear on the splines and then had to change the box after doing the engine swap! Both the TD and the tdi gearbox will work with the engine though.

Think you're right. Had another look earlier and it is a bit tight. Prob gonna drop it tommorow - then can do a proper job on the crossmember.

Another vote for Brownchurch - mine is mearly 20 years old and good as new. Carries the spare wheel and garden sheds, wardrobes and any other big junk i chuck up there to carry around (i am aware of the 70 kg weight limit!).

I'm replacing the rear crossmember. However, i bought one off of that fella on LRO that i put the link up to recently http://www.lro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27874 It doesn;t have extensions, but the chassis is in pretty good nick back there (suprisingly!) so i'm not sure they were needed. So i will be welding right round behind the crossmember and cant decide whether it is too close for comfort. The tank doesn;t leak and i could sheild it like you say. Thanks

Now i'll probably be told i'm very silly for asking this, but when welding the back end of the 110 - behind the crossmember - do i need to drop the diesel tank or at least empty the tank? Obviously if it were petrol i wouldn't ask, but is there a different risk with diesel?

What do you tell the insurance companies about this? I don't mean whether or not to tell them - cos obviously you should. But, the allisport, Brunel etc intercoolers all seem to have a percentage power increase in power quoted by the manufacturer which you can then tell the insurance company and they adjust the premium accordingly. Is it a case of a large intercooler, tweak the fuel pump as described elsewhere on here and adjust the boost and its always a similar increase in power ~25-35%?

Surely just putting an intercooler in without a fuel pump adjustment will just enable cooler head temperatures and increase the life of the engine? The intercooler itself won;t increase the performance. So the intercooler alone is a good thing..

The military forum section might be better...

Its not mounted in the 'normal' place for an intercooler, but there is no normal intercooler for this engine. Allisport do a kit that sits in front of the rad and the pipework goes under the rad. Your pipework is fitted in the right way, air inlet, to air filter to turbo, to intercooler and then to inlet manifold and the scoop on the wing should increase airflow through the intercooler so it should be fine - also has the advantage of shorter pipework compared to the Allisport design which i reckon will decrease air warm up in the pipes perhaps? I have considered doing this to mount a second inline intercooler to my 200tdi (don;t know how much improvement this would make but have read about intercoolers in series), but i have the disadvantage of a heater inlet in the lay there!

It is i think... Have another look. Follow the bright blue dot - intake to air filter, then the red to the turbo, then yellow to intercooler and i think the purple dots (these may be in the wrong place) are over the intercooler to inlet manifold pipe....

OK OK - there's plenty of info already on here...... therefore to echo MOG - New Members Please Read!!!

This was confusing me - but i think there may be an intercooler fitted under the heater air intake on here as it looks like a left hand drive model, so there is a space on here where we'd normally see the heater intake. - if you look closely, i can just see a tube running from the turbo to the space under the wing intake. I reckon the intercooler is under there and the pipe to the inlet manifold must come out behind the washer resovoir...

I have a pdf that may help with an LT230 overhaul - cant remember where i found it so can't post the link to it, but if you PM me your email address i'll send a copy to you.

Fair enough - i couldn;t remember if it was there.

Has anyone mentioned the lift pump in this thread? I changed mine because of similar symptoms and the landy is back to normal now. Cheap and easy to do. edit - just had a quick read and see that Jimmy mentioned it - still think this is worth a look though. Mine will get up to 90 now at a push with the OD engaged or in 5th w/o OD. Before i changed the lift pump, it would struggle to hold 70/75. What is more - on removal of the old lift pump, it would still pump diesel, but it still cant have been working properly because of the improvement with the new pump.

Mine looks just like that and will be replaced once the rear crossmember is done and i've saved up a little bit more..........

Shouldn't that term be accompanied by a thousand page advert???