reb78

Couldn;t new members get an email when registering explaining all this to them/linking them to the info? Don't know how easy that would be to setup so it is automated and no more work for you guys, but it would make sure this is all pointed out to them. Actually, does that happen already? (I can;t remember!)

What are the options fro adding oil coolers to boxes without them fitted. I'm thinking of my defender LT77s. But can you fit them to gearboxes that didn't originally have them fitted like the LT85, LT77??

Haha. Its on the road the whole time, but i do seem to spend an awful lot of time perfecting it - just want to get it just right. Next job is a bit of chassis welding for thr MOT. Its generally not that bad, so should be a quick job (yeah right!!). It stood for a year from 2007-2008 as we just got a bit fed up with the old engine. Then i changed the engine to a 200tdi last summer (really nice engine) - the effects of standing didn't do it much good, so i'm gradually putting that to rights.

I got a whole timing kit and puller off of enay for about £40. It has the timing pins for the injection pump and to lock the flywheel on various landies and includes a puller for the pulley. It might save a whole lot of effort here. I would have thought the bolts would take the strain of whats needed here. Otherwise use your bit of homemade kit with some heavier duty bolts as suggested.

I'm sure i've answered this post elsewhere! Its normal - my TD used to get very hot. Don't worry about it.

Correct again! removed the pin and there were two shims. I tried it with the thinnest forst, but there was no play long before i'd torqued the bolts up! I put the thicker shim in and there was just noticeable play befpre the bolts were tightened which went as i torqued up the bolts. Thanks!

Cheers chaps. I put a bolt through the floor in front of the seatbox and through a chassis support before i read these replies and attached the earth to that. I may moce it as i'm not entirley hapy with the connection, but it is working at the moment. Good thing is all of the wires are tidied away now and enter the cab through the bulkhead meaning the rubber gaitor can sit properly around the transmission tunnel hopefully reducing noise a little more!

Just a quick one. Can i earth to the bulkhead and expect a good earth there? Its actually the arch of metal that screws onto the bulkhead just in front of the transmission tunnel. I was just going to earth through one of the screws that secures the arch to the bulkhead. Its for the power supply to the overdrive. I only ask, as i notice, there are very few things earthed in that area and wondered it there was a reason as to why not. Thanks

Just had a quick look and there appears to only be one thin shim in under the pin housing. Is it ok to take this out and run without shims, and/or does this point to a shot bush that needs replacing? Is it ok to drive without any reapirs for the time being?

Cheers Ralph. Will try taking a shim out and see. I suppose to do it properly i should set the swivel preload and this would set it properly? or just take a shim or two out and see? As a short measure i could take some shims out and see as i'm gonna have to re-build the housing anyway with a new swivel ball soon.

It is quite a lot of play - not just a gentle rock. its hard to imagine how removing a thin shim will eliminate this. If it was less then i can see how that would work. Its a 1989 110 - so does that mean it is a railko bush - (i think so according to the workshop manual)? I think the whole lot will have to come apart to replace the swivel ball, so i'll do the bearings etc anyway.

Right. I changed the drag link ball joint recently because there was play in the old one. Now the wheels react to the smallest turn of the steering wheel. However, there is still a tendancy to wander a little when travelling in a straight line at higher speeds. All bushes look fine and very little play. I thought i'd check the bearings just to be on the safe side. No excessive play there. BUT, when the driver side front wheel was off the ground, there is play if you try to lift the wheel upwards - i.e. when on axle stands, the wheel drops down to the 6 o clock position and the play is there as you can lift the wheel up from underneath towards the 12 o clock position. It feels really loose in this plane. The passenger side is fine, bearing adjusted correctly and no play in either horizontal or vertical planes. The swivel ball is quite pitted on the driver side (with the play) and the seal on the swivel ball is leaking slightly there, so both probably need replacing, but what is likely to be the cause of the play on this side? Thanks

I'm not sure on the answer, but i did come across an overhaul manual some time ago which i have a copy of on PDF. I can;t remember the link, but can email you a copy if you PM me your email address.

This chap: http://shop.ebay.co.uk/merchant/winterton2...armrsZ1QQ_fromZ was who i bought mine from - like i say they are for RRC seats - these pairs he has advertised int he above link are great and the same make as mine. Don;t know if you can get them for the defender seats. The make is HDC COVERS LTD. I was dead impressed with them - thick, waterproof, hard wearing and a snug fit, with access to the back pockets on the seat. Think i paid £30 for the set. Hope that helps.

Its your top end power that suffers when the lift pump goes - you notice it most as a reduced cruising speed on the motorway. They generally run ok at road speeds up to around 50, but even this can gradually fade off - i noticed it was related to how full the tank was. Sounds like the cam wasnt in the right place in the original post to get the lever to do anything. A slight flick of the ignition would spin the engine round a tiny bit and allow the cam to sit differently and probably let the lever work - its just a matter of spining the engine tiny bit until this position is reached. Like Western says, no real need to do it, although if concerned you can always start the engine up and loosen the bleed screw a little as the engine is running to bleed it quicker, then tighten up when the air is all gone.

Have a look on ebay. There are a lot on there, not so many that are a proper tight fit - so search them out of the loose fitting rubbish. I got a great pair for the range rover seats i'd fitted to the front of my 110 on there. Fit tight, waterproof and hard wearing.

The handbook is right - although most people only use 48 fully loaded as farm as i can tell. I run my tyres at 38 on the back and whatever the hanbook says (28?) on the front. You'll have a barrage of opinions in tyre pressures now, it comes down to personal preference within reason. Rightly or wrongly i don't alter the fronts, just the rears depending on load.

Sounds about right to me. Mine gets pretty hot to the touch. The whole thing is after all attached to an engine which is very hot so the heat from that will travel anyhow. Drain it and refill it for peace of mind you'll only keep worrying otherwise and if you make sure its right you won;t have to do anything other than check the level for a while. Also, check you have identified the boxes correctly - as Dave says above, the transfer box has a square 1/2 inch filler plug.

My GKN Overdrive was around 30Kg, so i'd have guessed at least 50kg for the TXB.

Hi Chaps, Got a few questions on this thread as these are issues i considered before i bought my welder: 1. When you say put a 16 amp plug on the welder - are these square three pin and plug into a 13amp socket? or do you need a round 3pin 16amp plug AND socket? 2. If you stick a 16 amp plug onto the welder that plugs into a 13amp circuit, won't the circuit and the fuse at the box be the weak point and still stop you consistently drawing more than 13amps? 3. Would it be better to use a heavy duty extension cord that you can plug into your cooker socket if you have one and need to use an extension as these are normally 30amp IIRC? 4. If you spur off of a ring, sureley that will still draw 13amps and is actually the equivilent of using an extension cord (connected to wire that is not rated for the current) regardless of what plug and socket you use at the end of the spur? I'm not an electrician so tell me what i've got wrong here! 5. If possible, could one of you put some links up to the correct wires, plugs and sockets to buy to do this properly? 6. Obviously i suppose the best solution is a dedicated circuit rated at 16amps with 16 amp sockets and plugs, but it may not be that easy for everyone to have this run from their fusebox to the garage without majorish work? Thanks

Scroll about 3/4 of the way down here http://www.serie2a.dk/English%20series2a/2...%20Defender.htm just before he puts the engine in the vehicle, there are two pics that show the RH and then the LH engine mounts in postition on a disco 200tdi - should be the same as what you want to know

Changed the ball joint yesterday - as suggested above, plenty of room to work and now no more play in the steering. The old ball joint was rattling around in the housing - loads of play there!

Great thanks. That will make things easy. Why didn't i think of that!!!

Nice one

Is your fuel tank pressurising? Mine did this on my TD. The pressure in the tank meant that there was effectivley a blockage on the return fuel pipe which backed up and prevented enough fuel being pumped for hi speeds. Dismantling and cleaning the filler cap solved it as the breather in the cap wasn;t releasing pressure. Lift pump is the next place i'd look and check the fuel pump timing is correct as above.