reb78

Are they deep/long enough for the defender? The nuts shouldn;t be so tight on the defender that you need enough force to distort the spanner.

Possibly best to buy a hub nut socket like this to do the job properly http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Land-Rover-Wheel-Bea...%3A1%7C294%3A50 as the socket needs to be quite deep really. This was just the first one that came up on ebay when i searched. Not really expensive adn will enable you to do it easily. Oh and its 52mm.

Yep - what Matt says. I didn;t bother witht the glow plug timer relay system, i just wired the glow plugs up as the TD was - i don;t need them even on a winter morning, so don;t need the 15 secs of heating i did with the TD. The only other difference is that the engine temp sender unit on the defender 200tdi is at the front near the water pump rather than at the back where it is on the TD - the wire is already hanging there though.

Yep, it'll fit any 90/110 LT230 transfer box.

DOH is the word......... This really had me laughing!!!!!

When you use the difflock, i often find i need to run it in reverse a short distance to disengage it. I'd connect it back up and try this.

So you want Kit out of Knight Rider in Defender form??!!

On my old gearbox, they had worn at almost the same rate - its a wonder it went at all. The splines were very sharp and cut my hand.... How wide are the splines on the end of the mainshaft? they should be about 1/4 to 5/16 of an inch when new from memory. Somone else may come along with the exact measurement

I'm with Mike - why change something we all love so much already?? Same question seemed to be asked in London about a replacement for the Routemaster bus. The best designs submitted were basically drawings of the old Routemasters!

Thanks for this. Thats really useful and something i have been thinking of doing. This will prove very handy for reference. What split charge system are you using? And one other thing i wondered about with this setup is - is it ok to earth to the chassis if you run the live from the auxilliary battery and fusebox - or should you really run back to thise common earths on the auxilliary box?

I mean in the long run really. Time spent plating here and there... perhaps its inevitable that it'll need a new chassis at some point so maybe bite the bullet now. I need to assess the rest of the chassis properly before i decide.

Reckon i was sober by about 11 this morning! Only went out for a couple..... Anyway - this member is making me cross now. I've put my tools away cos i'm fed up with it! The hole is now larger, there's even less crossmember left and i think i'll have to drop the tank to plate the top where it meets the chassis rail. At the end of the day - if i'm dropping the tank, its probably going to be quicker to replace the cross member than plating something that is just going to need plating again and again........ Both front out riggers also need a 'plate'. Wonder if its quicker to swap the chassis for a nice galvnanised one?

No idea about MT75. I'd just stick with what was intended for now.

After drunkenly hi-jacking oaps thread last night, i thought i should post my own. I just sympathised with the 'came in from the pub' feeling! Anyway - i know its scary when you start 'tapping' a rusty crossmember with a hammer, but why does the half inch hole on mine have to end up like this??!! It was only going to be a quick patch. Now it looks better to replace the whole thing! One thing i'd say is that this is cut back to good metal now - a little more grinding and trimming to be done, but what you see in the pic is solid. The jacking point is now gone as it had rusted through as well, but i use a hi lift now under the chassis rather than the land rover jack, so i don't need to replace the tube. The rest of the crossmember has had a bash with the hammer and is really quite solid considering the state of this side. Another big question is - Why on earth did land rover design this thing in such a way that it would hold all of the muck and water to enhance the rusting process??!! If i do buy a new one, i'll seal it like Les posted in the tech archive which is what land rover should have produced in the first place.

MTF94 is what land rover recommend

Just read it - i constantly refer people to the 90 thread - i'm a drunken fool. I'll stop posting now and save my reading for a more sober time!

I thought that Uncle Les' post was for a 90 but will look again - it takes longer to post messages that make sense after a few than when sober! I only went out to fix a half inch hole.......then it became as big as a third of a cross member (exageration - but only slightly) when a hammer was employed - i figure its good practice with the mig to repair this now ready for the replacement crossmember! Wish i'd done the BBQ grill now rather than the landy!

I've just got in after a few and i left a big hole in the rear crossmember before i went to the pub! Will post about that tommoro - is a 110 crossmember easier to change than a 90!?? I feel for you with your hinge screw - very frustrating! But i'm going to buy a dremel tommoro to get into those gaps.........

What about a very fine file block or cutting disc on a dremel? Its a small space, so it would need to be small, but the angle you grind/file at will determine if it will spin. The dremel will come in handy again if you havenlt already got one.

First thing i'd do is pull the input gear on the transfer box. Take off the PTO cover and whip the gear out and see what the gearbox mainshaft looks like and the teeth on the inside of the input gear - wither of these may have stripped. Will it drive if the difflock is engaged at all?

Yep, Its the R380 I agree. Change the oil first and don;t rush the change - positive pressure on the gearstick without forcing it and let it fall into gear under that pressure.

As in the title - i need to do some chassis welding, obviously, disconnect the battery. Pull the plug from the alternator as well? anything else i should disconnect to avoid damage?

I reckon if you contact him, he would manufacture it so you could fit a towbar - i just think they look better made than all the other stuff people have commented on on here in the past.

These looked quite good when this came up on LRO some time ago.. http://www.lro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27874 Don;t know the guy at all and haven;t seen his work in the flesh, but perhaps he takes more of a pride in what he produces than some companies hence you get a product that fits. They also look well sealed so may rot slower than the original...

I posted on a similar issue recently http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=42970 Is the washer missing or do you just need to adjust the shims on the top pin? Read Ralphs (Westerns) replies to my posts in the above link - that sorted mine out.