reb78

I think Cynic-al sums it up,. Furthermore, with regard to the last bit of your comment, the ONLY people who have spoken to me about actually buying one are people who want something to show off ON their urban commute!! So well done LR, you have made another nice Chelsea Tractor....

Haha. Yep. We have ended up with three, just so we are able to work on one and still drive the others! There is still a high risk that we end up with two off the road though!

Wow! £18k!!

Genuine LR parts all day long (springs, bushes and shocks). This setup is something they got just right and when I did the 110 they werent too expensive either. Given the original set was about 25 years old when I changed it, genuine parts last well too!

Another good option! I am glad I posted! Do you recall roughly what the price was (I cant see one on their website)?

Interesting - would that work with an electronic speedo transducer? I am planning to put in a TD5 speedo at some point so will be ditching the cable.

They seem to in this picture: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-PAIR-OF-WATERPROOF-FRONT-SEAT-COVERS-PART-DA2818BLACK/264532957705?epid=1442876618&hash=item3d97649a09:g:AtcAAOSwdVFau4MI May be worth checking with the seller? Looks like some sites say DA2818 is for 2007 model seats onwards, but I am not sure there is much of a shape difference between newer and older defender seats is there?

I can second this - as much as i hate to recommend them. I have them on the RRC seats in my 110 and I looked everywhere to avoid buying Britpart, but these appeared the best material and fit so I took a chance. They have been excellent (that hurt to write). If the Defender seat versions are as good as the RRC ones then they will fit well and are hard wearing. As Jon says though, they can be a bit of a pain in hotter weather, but I dont find them too bad even then.

Yep - i started to type a post on it yesterday but I think its for electronically controlled fuelling systems. When i looked closer it has no actuator mechanism for controlling the FIP arm throttle linkage arm so I dont think it would work on a tdi? (Unless i am missing something?) I dropped these guys a line https://www.apollomotorhomes.com/index.php?CurrentCat=93 as they seem to sell the MS700 but there is very little detail on their pages so its unclear what the packs come with. I will update when they get back to me

Folks, I bought a repaired bulkhead from a member on here that I have subsequently had galvanised. I had it shot blasted first, but there are some areas where there was clearly some seam sealer that the shot blasting didnt manage to remove. I plan to pull this out. Is there anything I can spray this with now to compliment the galv coating and give it the best chance at not rusting? I plan to then prep and paint it - I will have a go at doing this myself. My workshed is large enough that I plan to build an enclosed spraying area within it that will fit the vehicle if need be. I will then fill the inside with as much waxoyl as i can get in it to give it extra internal protection. Can folks pick holes in the above so I can improve it? Is waxoyl still what people will use or are there better products now?

Looking on LRCat, I cannot find electric window regulators for the rear doors. I assume they exist? Can anyone point me in the right direction for the LR part numbers? There is a kit on ebay but its more expensive than the Masai kit for the front doors.

I have a full set of brand new doors to go on the 110. The front set are puma era but they are completely bare.

Great. Thanks for this. I have all new doors to go on the 110 at some point and so am thinking I will do a number of upgrades at the same time.

I finally found somewhere that sells the MS-700 that James used. Waeco seem to have re-branded as Dometic and their website only seems to sell half of an electronic cruise control system. There are a couple of companies in the US that make something that might fit by the look of it as well.

That's handy to know. It doesn't seem like a bad price and even if they are just genuine parts, they have got the kit together with everything needed. Being a 110 - i would like to do the rear doors as well (mainly so I can open windows for the dogs from the front). I will look into the parts. Presumably if I look at LRCat and follow the TD5 section it should have the parts necessary.

The weird thing is that this has only just started. I fitted the T-Max and second battery at the start of last summer. As far as I can tell, the control unit controls when the relay kicks in - the only connection to the original system is the positive (main battery to relay unit) and earth (joining the two batteries). I guess the T-Max control unit detects a certain output going into the main battery and then switches the relay to allow charge to the aux battery.

At some point I will be replacing all of the doors on my 1989 110. How have folks retrofitted electric windows to older vehicles?

At some point I will be replacing all of the doors on my 1989 110. What aftermarket central locking kits have folks on here used?

I spend a lot of time on the motorway with the 200tdi. Fitting cruise control would probably be quite useful as I try to travel the long distances at times when the roads are empty. I see Retroanaconda has previously fitted the Waeco Magicspeed MS-700 but I can't find any of these for sale. Has anyone done it with any other system. I currently have a mechanical speedo but plan to fit a TD5 one in case an electronic speed signal is needed.

I have a standard 200tdi 45amp alternator, dual batteries connected with a T-max split charge. The main battery runs the normal vehicle electrics, the eberspacher (when it is cold), an amp and my facet fuel pump. My second battery was really installed to run the camping fridge and give me 4-5 days of juice when parked up at a camp site and not risk the main battery going flat. Is the 45 amp alternator ok for my use? Its not like I have big drains like winches running. I am only asking as the current alternator is being a little odd on startup - no charge registering for 5-10 seconds on the voltmeter and the rev counter sits very low for the same period. So if I need to change the alternator should I change to a higher output one?

The text on theor chassis pages is a copy and paste of the sheilder text and gives the same impression. Is it the same for the bulkheads?

They are just a distributer for Sheilder arent they?

I agree with that. The bit in bold is relevant to this thread and cars though - the longevity, cost to fix and throw away attitude consumers have to cars is a HUGE problem. We are less likely to be culprits here as most of our vehicles are a lot older than the average car on the road. I almost solely drive my 30 year old 110 these days you could have had at least three other vehicles in that timespan.

I was thinking of getting one of these for mine - https://www.amazon.co.uk/FreeTec-Diesel-Petrol-Pressure-Tester/dp/B076GY4VWD recommended on the D2 forum. Can screw it in where the fuel temperature sensor is.

It seems a weird problem. Usually injector seals or fuel pump are suspect IME with cutting out but you can make the situation occur for those and with the injector seals, purging will usually lead to a restart. This seems to occur more randomly. Can you check the fuel pressure? That might help rule out the pump.