reb78

All working properly now. Initially it appeared to be the switch as fiddling with it got things working. Then the switch became too hard to switch! So I replaced it. They worked for a bit then and then stopped again - taking the relay out it was corroded on the bottom of the little circuit board in there. Replaced that and all ok now (for now!)

Fair enough. You get the same issue down by the slave cylinder with the standard setup and some people have heatsheilds, some not but the problems dont seem to be one or the other so it could be fine.

It does look nice and very simple compared to the contorted stuff pictured before.... Is it a little close to the clutch pipe (think thats the one directly behind it?)? Are you planning a heatsheild/move the pipe?

I have a roof tent that I use on the 110, but can see the advantages of mounting it on a trailer - especially for local camping trips around the Cornish coast line that are around an hour from the house. For longer trips i would probably still put it on the roof to save towing a trailer a long distance. In Mikes wanted thread recently, a few seem to have come up for sale - widetrack and narrowtrack versions. What are the technical differences?- apart from the obvious and what are the pro's and cons of each type? Will a narrow track one tow well behind a 110 (someone on the thread mentioned that wide was for the 110/90/defender vehicles and narrow was for series vehicles).

There are some 19J engines for sale here Phil in case of interest https://www.lrukforums.com/threads/19j-diesel-turbo.257737/ nothing to do with me but spotted them yeaterday.

I thought you went back to 19J for originality Phil? The engines a nice drive - when its working!

Not my old turbo was it?! I agree with the others in that the similar pattern of the melting on all four does suggest something else is going on as well.

Gosh. Thats pretty bad!! Whats the cause do you think? Where did those pistons come from Phil?

Will a stumpy 200tdi r380 fit?? (I have one!)

What box was it? A variation of the r380? Were there manual diesel p38 boxes that might fit?

I wonder though - What would the cost and time be for a conversion (say from a tdi era vehicle) vs purchase of a factory 2.8? I bet the final costs arent that far apart especially if you put a value on time? I’d be really curious to see how the 2.8 drives in a defender -i had one in a BMW and its one of the nicest engines I have driven.

Just forget it, I wish I hadn't mentioned it.

As I said earlier - i recall the earlier steve parker stuff looked pretty bad too.

My recollection of the early steve parker ones were that they were a similar construction to that tandy one. The curved version is certainly improved though!

I haven’t looked but it must be bad as the Steve Parker stuff looks awful in the first place!!

Where are you based? London is a big place!

They are working again now. I did what Mike said before I posted - did it again when I next got in for a drive and initially it didn't change anything, then a few miles later they started working. When they weren't coming on, I think I could hear the relay click once as i put the left or right turn indicator on so I wonder if it was getting stuck?

I haven't had chance to do any diagnostics yet, or check the fuses, but the indicators on the 110 have stopped working - no hazards either. Its a 1989 110. I will check the fuses, but not sure after that - dodgy flasher relay or hazard switch? Any pointers on how to diagnose? My multimeter is 270 miles away.... TIA

Diesel Bob is worth using if you need to send injectors/FIP off for reconditioning.

I need to do a bulkhead change on the 110. Chassis is okish, but will need doing at some point. The job is already creeping and my enthusiasm waning before i have even bought the chassis! Biggest stumbling block at the moment is choice of chassis manufacturer. For every food review there is a bad one. Enthusiasm wanes further!

TerrainTech appear (from their website) to have stock of Sheilder, Richards and Marsland. They are on one of my frequent routes from west to east to west of southern England. I might pop in and chat to them at some point..

I guess I keep coming back to Marsland or Richards because they are established. Marlsand uses OEM GKN components, but it does mean everything gets a TD5 back end (not period for the Tdi's or earlier) and Richards gets generally good reviews and make them from scratch. Richards use a slightly thicker steel from what I can tell - probably good in terms of longevity, maybe bad in terms of more weight to hoik around! They also put the correct rear crossmember on for the era if that bothers folks. Richards are cheaper than Marsland generally and only marginally more than Sheilder for an established chassis. I think I have decided on Richards when I pluck up the courage to part with the money.

I am in a similar spot but Richards seem to come out cheapest when i look for online. I will check again but how much cheaper are shielder for your chassis variant?

I guess so! I just naively assumed that if they wanted people to switch to what is badged as greener technology then they should help. I guess they will just tax the older stuff and force people to move. Its like DPFs... I know they are just plain awful things, but if they were truly good for the environment it would be good to have a 'green subsidy' to make them easier and cheaper to replace before they ruin your car and perhaps even to retrofit them to older vehicles..

Yes, I guess that video is what got me thinking about it in the first place really. I suppose, like you say, the gearing setup will all be wrong - but then they used the original gearbox back in that RRC didnt they? Whats the main price of their conversion? Is it batteries? (I am just curious... If it really is the answer, its odd that noone is subsidising conversions yet?)