reb78

Slovakian if the numberplate is anything to go by. Nice to see someone trying to get it stuck in the wet.

Nothing to worry about IMO. Idling it like that never gets it properly hot and I think leaves unburnt fuel. Mine will do the same (especially if i forget theres veg oil in it and leave it idling whilst working round the fields). Take it for a good run and dont worry about it.

I explored this. If you are short it wont work! I put (just placed) the spare on the bonnet - my other half is 5’ 1 1/2 and when I got her to sit in the driver seat she wasnt able to see enough to drive it! Despite the vocal opinion otherwise, mine is going back up on the roof rack eventually. There will certainly be a mount up there even the spare lives in the back when space in the rear is not needed. It lived up there for ten years and I had no handling issues.

Almost seems like a governor isn’t working properly on the pump. @vulcan bomber might have some ideas. I wonder if its something silly simple like your idle speed is set too low - try increasing it a bit perhaps.

Hardy ridiculous.... The original Defender clearly took major design cues from the Series vehicles too (much more in body than the RRC you posted the picture of) and was sold as a new model. This new defender, in my eyes, takes most of its design cues from the D3/4 but is billed as an evolution of the original Defender with which it shares nothing but the name as far as I can make out (alpine windows and a swing out rear door perhaps, but then the D2 had those too really....).

We asked Cornish Mutual and they arranged cover for us. We have a farm policy (bit of an exageration for 12.5 acres), but we needed various things like public liability as part of the use of the land and asked them to cover the large barns for content theft etc as I have the same worry as the OP. NFU would probably do it too as said above, but they were more than twice the price of Cornish Mutual!

I feel for you. This type of thing is so time consuming and preys on your mind, yet you are helpless to get it sorted as the speed of response is in someone else's hands entirely. I emailed our water supplier over a week ago to query a leak allowance on our bill and its taken them a week to acknowledge receipt and merely say they are passing it on to the wholesaler. Why couldn't they do that last week!? This has been going on since early February!

All of the youtube videos that chap/company posts are useful. I had to take the dash apart on the D3 to remove the steering column and fix the stupid steering angle sensor where the non replaceable, plastic guide that turns the sensor had come loose from the column (it looks like land rover never really fixed it to the column properly in the first place and just relied on luck) and his youtube vids gave me confidence on what/where I could pull to remove things without snapping everything!

I think, if you dont want to take the pump off and re-adjust the flange position, then your best option is to leave it as it is and whenever (if) you need to check and reset the timing before the next cambelt change, you will need to set the flywheel and cam to TDC and use the dti to find the correct position of the pump, not the timing pin through the pump flange. You can fix the pump when you next have the cambelt off then.

No - the front grill is vertical in one and horizontal in the other. Completely different.

So its pretty clear... land rover have designed and produced a Discovery 4a.......

What if you push the ball joint down from above somehow - i.e. compress the spring, marginally ease the seal at the top of the cup and then fill with grease and fill a tiny bit more as you remove the pressure on the balljoint to fill the void created (not too much otherwise you will find it hard to move again).

The more I see it. The less I think it looks anything like the old one. I think this is a big fail. Its a completely different car!

Gosh - these Pioneer and Alpine units are lovely but are really pricey!! For those who dont have the dosh to spare (like me!), you can acheive very similar with a cheap tablet (an old Nexus 7 is a nice size) and either an 'aux in' on a normal headunit or a hidden amp. You can remove the tablet that way too so it gets around the poor security of a defender!

I think that hub on the pump must have been replaced incorrectly.

Does that not just give it the same toys as the new defender then and put them on an equal footing where the older modified vehicle still made it look easy compared to the new one with similar gear (i think i read the new one had a rear locker and obviously traction control?) I would have liked to see the 110 earlier in the video attempt the same bit for a better comparison of older standard (assuming it was) to new.

Its his 'nod' to a PTO (like the rest of the vehicle is a 'nod' to the actual Disco3 err sorry, meant to type Defender)

So... a bunch of random pics of my setup. The RRC seats in the front of the 110 make the speaker box more complex than it needs to be. The sub is ten inch. It has a grill and covering on the back to protect against feet so is well protected and hidden - you wouldn't know it was there from looking. It needs re-covering now really - its one of those when I get round to it jobs and these pics were about ten years ago! The amp is just one from Halfords for £60 I think - it really doesnt need to be anything special to drive one sub. But the base is a good addition as the 4 and 6 inch speakers cant pump out that much and this means you can turn the sub setting up to deal with the base and not stress them too much. The speaker setup in the back is shown. Personally I wouldn't put them in the rear door as low down as L19MUD - they will get bashed and damaged and the second you load the back up it will mess up the sound so I went for mounting high up in the back corners. The front speakers are in the standard position although I did have to make a spacer ring for the passenger side as they were deep and fouled the wiper motor without. All of my speakers are reasonably priced Kenwoods - nothing to break the back, but as above, they are good quality. Pioneers would be good too. I really wanted to get some 6x9's in there as I have had pioneer 6x9's before and they were excellent but given my chosen locations I couldn't fit them in easily. My fader is set to send a little more to the rear speakers as they are able to handle a little more load. All in all it seems pretty balanced and produces a good sound and didnt cost the earth!

I do but I will need to find it. They used to be on here I think before photobucket screwed up so many forums. I will dig them out tomorrow - I have them all on a hard disk somewhere. I really like my setup. I often travel alone so the volume can be turned up and I like a moderate amount of base. You cant even see the speaker is there its so well hidden.

My setup uses decent quality two way 4 inch speakers in the normal position in the front. I built speaker boxes that sit in the two upper rear corners of the 110 that house a 6 inch three way speaker each. The centre console has a ten inch sub built into it (facing rearwards) and powered by an amp housed in the battery box. I use a Sony headset - not expensive but chucks out enough to power the speakers well. The setup sounds really good. You need to house the speakers in something to get a decent sound hence headlining mounted ones are never going to do a great job IMO. The doors are too narrow and packed already so there is nowhere better than the standard location in the front and my speaker boxes in the back seem to work quite well.

I like spinny vinyl (much better than spotify!!!!!!!) but the options for that are limited in a land rover. The sound setup in my 110 is excellent - I will post the config tomorrow (am listening to actual spinning vinyl now)

Hard to make this one out. If it goes forward with the OD fitted, it should go backwards!

I am pretty sure the 'other' slot is a variable size as its there to balance the flywheel?? So one is exactly where it needs to be for the timing, the other is to balance the hunk of metal that is flying round at engine rpm's so a thin slot where the woodruff key is at 12 o clock is the correct one for the timing pin.

Yeah - just looked back and edited my post above. I dont think you can lock them - unless he had a tool to do it (doesnt sound like he has any more tools than you or I though!)

I wouldnt remove the pulley yet. When your DTI arrives, you can check if it needs removing and if it needs taking off, do it then. Is this a 300tdi or 200tdi pump? I dont think you cant lock the 300tdi pumps but the 200 you can Edit - just looked back - its a 300tdi. I dont think you can lock that pump so I dont know how he did it. The 200tdi's have a bolt where you remove a spacer, do the bolt up and it holds the shaft in place.