reb78

I think I said similar in another thread, but I dont really understand why someone isnt developing an off the shelf conversion for LR products - One motor (or a variety with different powers), bolt to either the gearbox or transfer box (there werent that many gearbox variants that adapter plates couldnt easily be machined) and then plenty of room for batteries. Still wouldnt suit me unless we can get 500 mile ranges though. 300 miles is cutting it fine some days and if cold/need heaters etc, then that would drop to lower than useable.

The Volvo is waaay better looking than the D5!

Well, that was worth the trip. Good price!

Interestingly, I was servicing the D2 the other day and the standard hockey sticks on that have 'speed holes' in them....

Sorry - cant resist - just for balance, the Freelander 1 was absolutely the worst car I have ever owned (not just the worst Land Rover although it easily gets that prize too!!). Heap of rubbish spent longer in bits with me under it than on the road. We sold it (and at quite a loss - so yes, couldnt give it away), and bought the D2 instead about 8 years ago. Even the D3 is beating the freelander in terms of reliability (currently). Back on topic, the 110 is still the only one that I worry about getting nicked. Its the one I have most sentimental attachement to and have done the most with (toured the UK and wider Europe in it) and it has been in the family since about 1992. It looks really tatty at the moment (but runs perfectly) and I will need to do a chassis, bulkhead and all doors swap on it in the next year or so and I am worried about the fact that I will need to re-spray it really and then it will look shiny and new an be much more attractive to theives.

Can the damage in the bores be filled with a TIG and then bored out to the same size?

It is odd though as it slipped with Ralphs back end and the 'new' ones back end, so they may be faulty, but its hard to imagine both back ends are faulty with the same fault? One of my spare ODs was also reported to be slipping - might be worth a look at that to see any commonalities. I can try - the bottom bolt (that looks like it should be a sump plug) is for monitoring pressures. Whatever we do mine needs to be useable for long journeys though! If the bulkhead gets through the MOT this year it will have another 24k miles ahead of it in 2020! (maybe a week of rest for a chassis and bulkhead swap....)

The piston cylinder doesnt look great, but it did it with both rear sections (your old and the new to you one?) so I think that would rule that out?? The OD that you have has slipped on three clutch cones - the original and two new ones now? So pretty sure that would rule that out too? What did David think about the springs? Can you test them somehow?

Its a different vehicle, but I use the Bearmach own brand hubs on the D2 and they seem to last well... ~£80ish for the Bearmach one vs £400+ for LR genuine/Timken versions so I thought it worth a try - the one thats been on the longest must be on about 60k miles now.

Sam, how have you found the chassis? I am considering buying from Richards too and wondered what you thought of it so far? Why did you choose them and not one of the other options out of interest?

So, is there any way of making sure that the grease gets to all four parts of the UJ??????

I tried Academy a while back - it was like talking to an African prince who wanted to share a fortune with me and just needed my bank details but didnt know what a land rover was - i was seriously unimpressed. I stayed with NFU at the time. Flux were useless and have been every time I tried them for a quote. About two years ago I changed to Cornish Mutual as NFU seemed to be goIng up and when I rang them the YTS girl on the phone couldnt care less. Cornish Mutual halved my NFU (fully comp, unlimited miles inc business use) quote and didnt care about any modification that does not enhance performance. They were very good and very efficient. I had a full loss incident in another car and they paid up very quickly without a fuss. I would recommend them but you have to live in the southwest I think.

Was that an outing of dwarves? The fella in the driver seat needs a booster cushion! Maybe to make the bumps 'offroad' look bigger?!

Do the same with a D3 picture and I bet you wont tell the difference.

Question might be what pressure is needed? I.e. is it ok to put the feed as a header tank above the dishwasher? I suspect some house systems will run in this way anyway. Provided its not so high the waste cant recirculate into it. Or seperate feed and waste - that might even be better but might increase required capacity of the feed.

I have one that is destined for this as well. Interesting that it needed a pump - like Sam, I was hoping to get away without one. What degreaser fluid are you using? Something like the traffic film degreaser stuff that farmers buy in bulk?

I'd rather have a Cortina - especially if its a Mk3...

I'm not sure I class that as off road.... My old BMW 5 series would probably cope fine on that track!

LRDirect and Britcar are your best choices for parts in my opinion. Both have a wide choice of options and good customer service. Britcar is just beating LRDirect on prices for a few identical items at the moment.

At least you have found the problem! What does the crank shaft look like - is that damaged or ok? I put a small smear of loctite on the crank, particularly around the woodruff keys to avoid this movement and keep everything nice and tight. It does make removal a little more difficult - i.e. definitely need to use a puller, but I think its worth it to mitigate the risk of this problem somewhat.

Are you rotating the crank twice before you try to put the timing to back into the injection pump?

shop4autoparts sell the gallery seals iirc. Split them for sure. When I did mine, the lower channels were blocked with a rubber goo that I presume was from less than frequent brake fluid changes. You would never spot this if you didnt split the caliper

That is interesting. Looking at the numbers old springs vs new springs are around 0.5mm difference. I suspect the old springs will be slightly shorter due to being used? 0.5mm might be all you need though. Its a shame you cant get a 0.75mm thick washer! Too much and it might not be able to run in the engaged position properly!

What about replacing the broken parts from your original OD (and only those parts) with the intact ones from the one you are currently using? Surely that should produce a working unit?

Can you measure the springs against the two sets from the od you bought for comparison?