Pete Attryde

That is the same as the kit I fitted to mine. IIRC that is the correct upgrade kit as the crank pulley keeps everything in-line. The old bits I removed from mine were as you have described. Before I fitted the new belt and pulleys etc I used to get an unidentifiable smell of burnt rubber on a longish run and now with the new bits I don't. I think that what I could smell was the cambelt rubbing on the timing cover. HTH Pete.

Yes the 200TDi does have a lift pump. It is mounted on the engine and driven by a lobe on the cam. It also has a lever to draw fuel from the tank to help bleed the system. Pete.

I think (but stand to be corrected) that because mine is Disco auto they should actually run at 1.2bar, and yes mine should have EDC and not a mecahnical pump but being an electronics engineer by training I loath all things electronic in a vehicle designed to get wet and muddy and pulled all the electronics and fitted a mechanical pump. Pete.

One thing a found was that when I made some very small adjustments to the fueling I got more boost. I didn't touch the waste gate or the boost feed to it, but I went from having a max of about 1bar to a max of about 1.2 bar just by making some small adjustments to the fuelling. Pete.

The problem I had with that image is that I thought I was looking for a push on cap, where as the cap is more like a core plug pressed into the centre of the raised bit and with the amount of muck on that area of my pump it was not obvious where the join was. Pete

That's how I fitted my boost gauge, although I found I needed to fit a restrictor into the line as the needle was bouncing around a lot a high boost thus making the reading useless (plus made a really annoying buzzing noise). I fabricated the restrictor out of a peice of 4mm copper tube with the end soldered (sp) closed and then drilled a 1mm hole (smallest drill bit i could lay my hands on) in the solder to allow a restricted air flow and then put this in the line from the inlet manifold. Pete.

I'll try and get a photo tonight to help visualise where it is. Pete.

Yes as far as I know black smoke is unburnt fuel. I believe that to much unburnt fuel can lead to High EGT problems that can cause damage to the exhaust manifold as well as other bits of the engine. I think from reading other threads on here about EGT and tuning the engines that fitting an EGT gauge is a good idea. I am intending to get an EGT gauge for mine before I really start playing around. IIRC an EGT of around 700 deg C as about as high as you want to see on a long up hill drag. Pete.

The power screw will only make a difference at full throttle. The smoke screw should be hidden under a (possibly) metal cover that looks like the top of the boost capsule. Prize this out trying not to damage it and underneath you should see the screw and its 13mm lock nut. I recently had a play around with mine which is admittedly a 300TDi but the pumps are the same and I thought at first I didn't have the smoke screw, but I found it in the location described. HTH Pete. p.s. I managed to wreck the cover on mine as I had to be fairly brutal to remove it so now need a new one.

Mine does the same. I am fairly sure on mine it is the brake pads as I cannot detect any play in the wheel bearings. I think the pad is just rubbing on the disc very lightly. I have no idea as to how to stop it. Pete.

The coolant temp sensor can effect the fueling on EFi engines as it tell the ECU the coolant temperature and the ECU then decides how much fuel is required, ie if the engine is cold more fuel is required. What often happens is that the sender fails and the ECU thinks the engine is cold and sticks a load of extra fuel in which leads to a misfire/poor running and even worse fuel consumption. HTH Pete.

If you are using the sender and gauge from the original engine then you should IMHO not have a problem. I would say that the gauge sitting in a different place is almost certainly due to it being a different engine with a different operating temperature. Pete.

Well done everybody, fantastic result. Pete.

Was definately the worst bit of doing the job on mine, but having made a puller like Les's helped loads. Pete,

Beaten to it by Bogmonster. Pete.

Pinny, I would definately want to have a look inside the timing cover properly and as you have then done a large part of the job you might as well change the belt and the crankshaft seal whilst you have the cover off. Les's Thread helped me alot when I did mine a couple of weeks ago. I got a kit from craddocks (p/n STC4096L) which had everything you need to replace except for the crankshaft seal and the timing cover dust seal. 300TDi Disco crankshaft oil seal is part number ERR4575, 300TDi Disco timing cover seal is part number ERR4576. Mine which is also a 1996 had the cambelt rubbing on the inside of the timing cover as the updated bits supplied in the kit had not been fitted. HTH Pete.

Glad we helped. I guess you could but it would probably easier and more reliable to just run all new wiring from the fuse box via a switch on the dash to the back of the truck. Pete.

Is it possible to use the maps supplied with Fugawi with Memory Map and if it is how do you do it please? The reason I ask is that I may be able to get all the UK 1:50000 O.S. maps in a digital format from the Fugawi that we use at work but I am already using memory map and don't really want to change. I will share the maps with all on here if I can get them. Secondly, Was trying to export waypoint data from Fugawi into Memory Map but it seems that no matter what format I try memory map won't recognise them any ideas as to get round this? Cheers Pete.

This thread in the tech archive shows how to change the cambelt and includes a shot of the pump locked using a drill bit it should give you a clue.Cambelt thread HTH Pete.

I think what LR90 ment was that the reverse light switch can physically prevent reverse being selected by it being screwed to far in. HTH Pete.

Hi I know it's not a V8 but on my 300 TDI I use a X-fan switch from Simonr and use the higher switch point on it which is 92C and the fan hardly ever gets switched on. The lower setting on the switch is 88C. So I would go for that on yours and see how it goes. HTH Pete.

Not Series III I Know but, on my Discovery I have just had to replace the rad as the previous owner had fitted a kenlowe using the plastic things and they then made a hole in the tubes in the rad causing it to leak. I also use a X-switch rather than the standard kenlowe one. I made up some brackets to hold the fan to the radiator frame when I refitted it. Pete.

Keep it in some situations the bulbs ability to load a circuit can be useful as it can show up a high resistance where a multimeter won't. Pete.

Welcome to the forum, Have you tried putting an earth from one of the starter motor bolts to the battery negative. (Use a heavy duty bit of cable). If this fixes the problem you need to find and check/repair/replace/clean the earth from the engine to the chassis (I am not sure where it is). HTH Pete.

The tensioner did have a lip on, however the bearings were pretty much shot so I think this had allowed the belt to move as well. I think that the person who changed the belt did it on the cheap coz I can only find a reciept for a belt and nothing else plus they weren't all that competant as they had also managed to get the pump timing out by 1 tooth so I suspect that they didn't lock it. Pete.