Pete Attryde

How about the RS trade counter in Crawley, as you should be able to collect your stuff over the counter. Might pay to give them a call to check stock availibilty tho. Pete.

Yes that is the drain plug, yes you refill through the dipstick tube and yes that probably is about the right quantity of oil however you won't get that much out as a large amount stays in the torque converter. It would probably be a good idea to change the filter (which is inside the sump) as well as it is inexpensive and easy to do. The only way to change the oil completely as far as I know is to strip the whole thing down. However you can change the oil 2 or 3 times in a short period (say 1000 miles) as this will change 90% of the oil to new. It is probably worth noting that there is some feeling that if the old oil is not brown and burnt it is not worth the risk of changing it as there have been some people having problems with boxes sticking in 1st after an oil change. I didn't have this problem when I did mine however. HTH Pete.

Torque setting is 130Nm (about 96 ft.lbs for the metrically challenged). taken from here HTH Pete.

I found this a useful site, So might others :- Tyre Size calculator Pete

I found this site useful for working out differences in tyre sizes Tyre Size calculator. Pete.

Thys, That's good as the parts for the EDC kit can be quite expensive. On mine I had a cable from the throttle pedal to the injection pump but that is for the kick down as it only went to a bell-crank mounted on the pump and then back to the gearbox. I have since retro-fitted a mechanical pump and I now have two cables . Pete.

Welcome to the forum, I may well be wrong but as a UK spec 300TDi Auto, you may find that you do actually have engine management as I believe that it should be fitted with an EDC injection pump and therfore has a flyby wire throttle. Well at least mine did . Pete.

Defender Downpipe is ESR2297 taken from Here. Pete.

I'm up for this, no preference as to when. Pete.

WD40 or Plusgas work as penetrating fluid available from the likes of Halfrauds or your local motor factors. As for the caliper bolts you will need a 12 point socket rather than the more usual 6 point ones these should also be available from Halfrauds etc. Hth Pete.

Is it just me, but the argument that bullbars cause people to be forced under vehicles has a flaw in it, in as much as I would have thought that being hit by some thing as flat and tall as say a Defender, Disco/RR is fairly un-likely to throw the victim up unto the bonnet anyway. . I can see that a smallish diameter tube will cause a high load impact point if it comes in to contact with a body, where as the body work is probably more likely to deform but just don't see it increasing the risk of being run over. Pete.

Tis true that I don't know for sure if it was running properly before however the fault that led to the removal was a dead spot at just above tickover on the throttle potentiometer so not convinced it would have affected performance overall. I have to say that prior to the dead spot I was very happy with the way it went on the EDC and it was quite happy cruising at 70 on the motorway all day and on my normal run to work would return 30ish MPG and would even beat some suprising things off the line upto about 20mph, which leads me to think it was running reasonably well. In comparison it just seems to be running and starting better now that it is on a mechanical pump. and the throttle response is far better. Which I conceed may have been down to the fault developing on the potentiometer. Pete

Does any one know why Landrover saw fit to use EDC on the automatic 300TDI's ? Just curious as I have recently changed mine over to a normal pump and junked the EDC kit and find that it goes better and seems to be using less fuel and is nicer to drive. Pete.

LOL Pete

Electronics Engineer by training (MOD apprenticeship at Farnborough). Did a bit of time on Gas Turbine testing at DERA Pyestock before they made us redundant. Spent a few years building fire engines for John Dennis Coach Builders in Guildford. Then moved on to fixing Aircraft for a company called ATC (Lasham) Ltd based near Alton (hants) that was interesting as I got to work on big stuff like Boeing 757's and little stuff Piper Cherokee's and small Helicopters (single and twin Squirrels). Got bored with that and went to work for a company in Crawley that are developing a Fuel Cell sysytem for domestic use. Most recently moved to Cheshire and now work for a company that does R&D for the Electricity Suppliers. Is a very varied job, ranging from hanging out of helicopters to survey power lines to lab testing mCHP systems for use in domestic environments. I have also dabbled with installing Burglar alarms and cctv, Car stereo's and specialist gas delivery systems for use in Universities and the like (mostly small bore stainless tube carrying nasty gases) Pete.

BBC article. Pete.

My 1996 300TDi passed it's last MOT (new computerised type) with the Particulate Filter (CAT) removed. No mention made of the fact that it was missing and the guy who tested it commented on how 'clean' the exhaust emissions were . Pete.

The Electric thingy is probably for the EGR not the EDC as that has a completely different (although similar looking) pump that has no throttle cable connection. HTH Pete.

Ok I know mines a Disco, but, I have taken both of them off of mine and I have no problems with the on road handling (as long as you don't drive it like it's a sports car.) I fact I find it handles more predictably without them and I also get slightly better articulcation off-road. Pete.

I would have to totally disagree with you on this as on mine which is a 1996 UK market Disco the bracket is most definately bolted down using two of the bolts holding the aircon bracket to the timing cover. If it wasn't P*****g down again out side I would go and take a pic. Pete.

Can't help with a part number or a part, however on mine I have changed the injection pump from an EDC one to a non-EDC one and when I re-fitted the bracket in it's standard position (on the two bolts on the timing cover) it fouled the top of the pump and I had to raise it by about an inch to make it clear. Now if you can get the bracket for an non-EDC pump you may well find that it fits fine. Not sure if the above helps, Good luck. Pete.

Cheers Bush65, That might be easier to get made than a new ball-joint mount. Pete.

Cheers Simon, I had a feeling that was going to be the case and I don't have the facilities to make a mount of my own. Pete. editted to ad the following, Does anyone have a spare balljoint mount that I could have to use a I may be able to get one made for me and having one as a pattern would aid the process.

Not sure if this going to help, I have BT broadband and using Outlook express check my hotmail and gmail accounts and can send mail using either account, i think i use gmail as default. HTH Pete.

Afternoon all, Whilst reading another thread on here some where I came across a suggestion of Billvansnorkel's for correcting the diff pinion angle by fitting the triangular metal plate for the rear radius arm to chassis bushes in front of the chassis mount rather than behind it. As my disco has a 2" lift the pinion to prop angle was noticeably odd (plus I was getting a vibration from the rear under some conditions) I thought I would give this a go. Half an hour with the spanners all changed around and the pinion sits at a much better angle, However the one side effect I have noticed is that the wheels now sit quite a bit closer to the front edge of the wheel arch. With 255/65/16 AT's I have fitted at the moment this is not causing any problems however I intend in the near future to change over to a set of 235/85/16 MT's which are going to be about 75mm larger diameter and therefore put the tyre within about 15mm of the wheel arch which is going to be to close. I dont really want to have to modify the front of the rear arch to much as it's a 5 door. So feel I will have to put the radius arm bush back to it's original position and then correct the pinion angle at the a-frame. So what is available to achieve this? Ideally I would like to use a standard type (although wide angle) ball joint but it would need to sit something like 10mm further towards the rear of the car to tip the diff nose upwards. I have seen THIS from QT but it seems expensive and use's a rosejoint which I would like to avoid as this a daily driver. Any and all suggestions are welcome Pete.