Pete Attryde

The bit that is across the hole should slide out of the way as the cone shaped pin on the bonnet pushes down onto it and then snap back across the whole to hold the bonnet down. I would suggest a liberal aplication of lubricant to both the pin and catch and try it again. Pete.

As far as I know the alarm/immobiliser is a completely seperate unit to the engine ECU although it does interact with it I don't think that you will have a problem. I still had all the alarm/immobiliser functions (apart from the fuel shutoff) after I removed my ECU. Don't take this as gospel however it is just my experience. HTH Pete.

Would it not be possible to modify the sump a little rather than move the axles? Pete.

The tensioner for the power steering is self adjusting (big spring pushes it onto the belt). The one near the aircon pump only does the aircon pump. At least on mine it does. HTH Pete.

Nope sorry already sold. Pete.

The only other thing that occured to me as I drove home was that I ended up changing the outlet unions from the EDC pump onto the non-EDC pump as they were a different length which ment that the injector pipes would not line up. This was no big deal but there are some small internal valve components in the unions which can fall out. Pete.

Many thanks to all who made this possible. Mine arrived un-scathed today. Pete.

The only things I can think of were I had to drill a hole for the throttle cable to pass through the bulkhead and make up a suitable pin to connect the cable to the throttle pedal. The pump I got came with the throttle cable bracket on it. The ECU and all the other electronic bits I just removed (although a couple of the engine sensors are still there to fill the wholes they live in) Plus I have so far left the looms in place because I can't be bothered with ripping the dash out at the moment. The kickdown bracket needed raising about an inch to clear the top of the injection pump. I think the cruise should still work as it is independant to the engine ECU. I had already ditched mine as the pump died and to be honest I hardly ever used it so I can't say for sure. I ran a new ignition controlled feed to the stop solenoid when I fitted the new pump and had already bypassed the starter inhibit parts of the alarm so did not find the immobiliser a problem (an after market immobiliser is going on this weekend.) . I had the problem about 8-9 months ago and assumed it was the throttle position sensor on the pedal but having removed it and cleeaned the connections and discovered it was a sealed unit I decided (being an electronics engineer) to ditch the electronics and go clock work. I probably drove the truck for about 5 months and just learnt to drive round the issue. I think I found some where selling throttle pots for about £95 + vat but can't remember. HTH Pete.

My 1996 EDC Auto also did this and is the reason why I took all the EDC kit off my engine and replaced it with an old fashioned non EDC fuel pump from a manual 300TDI Discovery (The second hand pump plus a new cam belt and throttle cable was about £300.) I then sold the EDC parts and recooped most of my out lay. I have found the performance to be as good (now tweeked is actually better) plus I have no more worries with electronic bits dying at an inconvienent moment (like if it gets wet or just feels like playing up) I did the work my self and it was no worse than changing the cambelt just required undoing a few more bolts. HTH Pete.

I am impressed you managed to hole your oil filter as it is well tucked up on the side of the engine. Places like Paddocks, John Craddocks, MM4X4 and Devon 4X4 do lift kits of varying price and quality. If your budget will allow it avoid kits in the lower price range as the components will be of a lower quality. Try and go for some springs made Old Man Emu as they seem to be highly recommended by others on here and either get Old Man Emu or Procomp or Rough Country shock absorbers. You should be aware that a 2" lift could affect the high speed (50+mph) handling of your Disco as it will change the castor angle on the front axle making the steering feel very vague and less inclined to self centre. Not all do it but mine did. If it does effect the handling you will either need to replace the bushes at the axle end of the front radius arms for castor corrected ones or buy new castor corrected arms. Having corrected the castor you will then probably find that the front propshaft will have picked up a vibration which is cured by fitting a double cardon propshaft from a discovery 2 or a custom made one from the likes of propshaft clinic or devon 4x4 etc. I also had probloems with the rear propshaft as the steeper angle on the propshaft destroyed the rubber coupling at the axle end within about 3 months of me fitting the lift and then a second brand new one in about 6 months. To cure this I ended up fitting a high angle Universal joint at both end propshaft (from Devon 4x4) which involved changing the pinion flange on the diff. I then also had to correct the flange angle of the rear diff as I then had a vibration on the rear this was cured by fitting new rear radius arms that were longer than the originals. You will also definately need to change the front brake pipes for longer ones and may also need to change the rear ones as well. All in all in my opinion I (having done it on mine) would say that if you can avoid fitting a lift kit if at all possible do, as it could be a lot more expensive and a lot more hassle than just trimming the body work slightly and adjusting the steering stops. This is just representative of the problems I encountered when I fitted a simple 2" lift to my 1996 300TDI discovery and may be different to other peoples experiences. HTH Pete. To adjust the steering lock stops remove the whell on the side to be adjusted and looking from the front at about mid way up the hub inside of the brake dust shield there should be an M10 (19mm spanner) bolt with a lock nut (the lock nut also secures part of the brake shield). Loosen the lock nut and then unscrew the bolt a couple of turns. Turn the steering untill the back edge of the other wheel is as close to the trailing arm as it gets if it hits then adjust the bolt out some more until the tyre is about 5-10mm clear of the radius arm. lock the lock nut back up re-fit the wheel and repeat on the other side. Pete.

The D4X4 prop was not the cheapest option. However it seems to be well made and does the job. Can't help beyond that, best bet is to give them a call. Devon 4x4 Pete.

I would guess it is down to a reasonably low water flow rate (assuming the engine was at tickover) and a reasonably efficient radiator doing it's job. Pete.

Welcome to the forum. To stop the fronts rubbing you can adjust the steering stops although this will slightly increase your turning circle. To stop the rears rubbing you will need to trim a small amount of metal from the rear of the rear arches in what is known as a camel cut. Sorry no pics. Hth Pete.

My kenlowe was originally fitted with the cable tie type fixings and with in about 3 months they had sawed through the core of the radiator causing it to leak. I have now made a decent bracket for it which bolts to the raditor frame (which is what I should have done in the first place ) Pete.

The worst bit of the job is swapping the diff pinion flange. This might help. Not sure about the 200TDi propshaft as I fitted a wide angle one from D4X4. HTH Pete.

I had a similar problem with a reconditioned engine in a 2.5 TD. The belt was correctly timed (and checked several times) when the engine was installed. The vehicle was driven approx 20 miles when it developed serious problems (loud popping noise through the airfilter, No power). Upon investigation belt was found to have jumped on the cam sprocket which caused the pistons to hit valves which then broke a rocker arm. I spoke to the remanufacturer who were very helpful and said that it is not unheard of for the oil pump to stick slightly on intial start up which stops the cam from turning and the belt to jump. The pump then frees and all runs but with the timing out. I got all the bits replaced free of charge and without any hassle. Which is why i would not hesitate to recommend Turner Engineering. Pete.

Yep you can remove the sensor (for the EGR originally) and still use the throttle linkage. IIRC just undo the three bolts holding it on and it will lift off. HTH Pete.

It belongs to Mr Fridgefreezer. Fridges truck Pete.

Neither get some X-springs from X-eng (Simonr) much neater solution. Pete.

Same here although mine is made of ally tube that i got free from work. Pete.

The second part is here and I think Nige states in there that the whole set up moved a lot af air through the rad. Pete.

This may give you some ideas. From the tool and fabrication forum. HTH Pete.

Funnily enough I was similarly accident prone when I was preparing to remove the aircon from mine. I have yet to remove the underdash parts but as I also need to lose all the wiring to do with the now missing EDC system I feel that I am going to have to pull the dash out soon. I am going to reuse the pump to make an onboard air system one of these days. Pete.

Surely all you need to disturb on the aircon is the belt tensioner which replaces the above mentioned plate. then it is just a case of turning the engine till the pin (drill bit) will go in on the pump and the engine will be at TDC. Change vaccum pump, remove pin replace tensioner anf re-tension and the job is done. Pete.

Not In My Back Yard. Pete.