Pete Attryde

I think the turbo is from a mercedes. See this topic :- TD5 turbo HTH Pete.

freeagent, No anti-rollbar on mine. I didn't jack the truck up either was a bit tight but I managed. I guess the slightly lifted suspension may have helped but only have about a 1" lift. HTH Pete.

Signed and so has SWMBO. Pete.

In answer to my own question of, is a defender 300TDi downpipe (ESR2297) a direct replacement for a discovery 300TDi cat downpipe (ESR3495)? I can now confirm that it is, as I have today fitted one to my truck. I thought I would try to do a small write up of this relatively simple task:- Very few tools are required to change the down pipe just a couple of 17mm spanners, a 13mm spanner and a 15mm socket and ratchet and a couple of long extension bars. Some WD40 or Plus gas to soak the nuts and bolts to help them undo is also probably a good idea. Removal Step 1:- Working under the truck using the 13mm spanner loosen the two nuts on the downpipe to centre section clamp. step 1-a You may need to jack the car up if you haven't fitted raised suspension Step 2:- Again from under the truck using the 15mm socket, extensions and ratchet undo the 3 nuts holding the downpipe to the manifold. The photo only shows one of the nuts and is taken from above. Step 3:- Working under the truck undo the top bolt (using the 17mm spanners) that goes through the chassis and retains the crossmember. This bolt also holds a bracket for an exhaust hanger. I found it was not necessary to completely remove the bolt as the bracket is slotted and when rotated through 90 degrees will slide off the bolt. (Sorry no pics as the heavens opened.) Step 4:- Finally remove the nuts from the centre section clamp freeing the downpipe. As the downpipe comes away from the manifold carefully retrieve the thin metal gasket that goes between it and the manifold and save it for later. The next bit is a little tricky as it involves pushing the complete down pipe forward carefully until the backend clears the crossmember at which point you need to feed the backend under the cross member as you pull the downpipe towards the back of the truck until it clears the axle. The old and the new. Refit Step 1:- Refitting is pretty much the reverse of the removal procedure. I found that by laying the vertical section of the downpipe over at 90 degrees to its normal position allowed it to slide up over the axle easier and then having pushed over the top of the crossmember it was possible to twist it up in to its normal position. As the down pipe is pushed up onto the manifold studs remember to replace the thin metal gasket between the 2 components. Install the nuts on each stud and then tighten to the correct torque figure. Step 2:- next line up the centre section to downpipe clamp and tighten the 2 nuts up evenly to the correct torque figure. That’s the downpipe refitted, all that is left is to tighten up the crossmember bolt. It should be noted that due to the fact that the defender downpipe doesn’t have a flexi section it doesn’t have a hanger bracket on it, meaning the hanger bracket originally fitted to the chassis does not need to be refitted. I guess if you are fitting a downpipe with a flexi section in it you would need to re-install the bracket and hanger rubber on the chassis. HTH Pete. I cannot comment as to whether or not removing the cat has made any difference to the performance as I have yet to drive it as I haven’t fixed a slight brake issue yet.

I would do the same as western suggests as a temporary fix and then when you have more time replace the crank. Pete.

What he said. my local halfords also had GL4 ep90 last time i was in there. Pete.

The cold heater could also be a sign of an airlock in the system preventing the cooling system from working correctly. Pete

after a quick google found the following:- Real Steel V8 Engines & performance parts Telephone and fax Tel: (01895) 440505 Fax: (01895) 422047 Address Unit 9 Tomo Industrial Estate Packet Boat Lane Uxbridge Middlesex UB8 2JP they don't appear to have a website. HTH Pete.

As Bogmonster says on a 300 TDi it is just behind the battery and the expansion tank:- HTH Pete.

an early 300TDi defender downpipe (ESR2297) is a direct replacement for the cat downpipe (ESR3495) on my 1996 300 TDi Discovery. Just want to get clarification as the defender downpipe is about half the price of the non-cat discovery one (ESR2740). Pete.

The part numbers (ESR3239 & ESR3240) for the 300TDi hoses have been superceded by the following, UBP101000 and UBP101010. HTH Pete.

I realised that my original photo doesn't really show much so here is another one. I just cut the box off as far from the hanger as possible and then cut the scrap pipe to suit and welded it on the end. HTH more, Pete.

I guess nobody knows then. alternatively anyone know the thread sizes for the unions at the gearbox end and the oil rad, so that I can get some goodrige type hoses made up. Ta Pete.

I have done exactly this to my 300TDi and I can't say that the exhaust sounds any different from inside the truck. I just cut the back box off and using a piece of exhaust scrounged from local exhaust place that had a suitable bend in it made a side exit exhaust. like this:- I don't know what the scrap bit of exhaust was from but i would guess it was a Van of some kind. HTH Pete

Imspanners, yeah the drain is now down to 20mA which i am much happier about. Bogmonster, Cheers for that, I had thought it might be enough just wasn't sure. I think I may well invest in an optimate type charger to keep the battery topped up when I'm not using the truck. Pete.

Morning, My truck is not getting used much at the moment and has sat for a fortnight unused on a couple of occasions recently, both times the battery has been too discharged to start the engine (it would turn over but not fast enough to start it.) I spent this weekend with the multimeter and discovered that with every thing switched off, doors closed etc, there was a total drain on the battery of 80mA. this seemed a bit high to me but I am not sure if it would be enough to discharge the battery of this time period. The battery is brand new by the way so should be good. Truck is a 1996 300 TDi Auto. I have already found that due to the way the stereo was wired this was causing 60mA of the drain and I have sorted that, I just want to know if I could be looking at a duff battery as well as a highish current drain. The battery takes a charge no problem and once re-charged starts the engine with no problem. Pete. editted for spelling.

Morning all, Whilst sorting the electrics on my truck yesterday I discovered that the rubber sections of both the gearbox oil cooler pipes is weeping slightly. So far this is an insignificant leak but I would like to sort it before it gets any worse. The same thing is happening on at least one of the engine oil cooler pipes. So can anyone tell me what the part numbers are for the pipes on the gearbox and engine oii coolers my truck is a 1996 300TDi Auto. Thanks in advance, Pete.

Just a thought but is the coolant temperature sender behaving correctly. As if it is telling the ECU the wrong thing it could cause it to miss fuel the engine and cause a miss fire. Pete.

I think you'll find that the 'orange' company is 'scorpion racing'. who seem to like spraying stuff orange and or allowing the british climate turn it orange on it's own. Hth Pete.

Not sure this will help much, but, make sure all the other wheel nuts are still done up as this will reduce the load on the locking wheel nut. not sure of the design of the locking wheel nut but when a garage failed to return the wheel nut key for SWMBO's peugeot I used a large hammer to bang a socket on to the offending wheel nut and then undid them. this has the advantage of shocking the nut to help loosen it. If you have welding kit you could try welding say an M10 nut onto the end of the locking wheel nut and using this to undo it. HTH Pete.

Just heard the same on Radio 2, seems it is Richmond Council. Pete.

Welcome to the site. From your description you do have an EDC engine. Not done it but i would imagine the easiest way round this would be to use the injection pump from your original engine on the new engine. HTH Pete.

I would second what Orgasmic Farmer says and look at wether or not the drop arm has moved on the steering box. Pete.

Just to throw a spanner in to the lift pump theory I just changed mine and it made no obvious difference and I know the old one was knackered as the arm that runs on the cam was completely detached from the rod inside the pump so was most definately not pumping. Pete.

Well mines a 1996 and has an ECU controlled engine. Pete.