David_LLAMA4x4

Technically I suppose you could say this is very bad but in the real world it is quite normal........ there is no supposed to be oil in there but it gets there anyway. Have you got any oil in the aur filter assembly as well? The oil will either be getting into the intercooler via the turbo itself ( worn bearings ) or it could be coming from the breather off the crankcase going into the airfilter and passing through the whole turbo / intercooler plumbing. Unless you have a lot ( like runny oil rather than black sooty muck ) then do not be too worried. As it starts to get more start to worry more and when it is actually dripping out of the joints in the intercooler plumbing it is time to cry Hope that has put your mind at rest rather than sent you into a flurry of woe! David LLAMA 4x4 New online stotre

With the "%%/85s the interference is on the underside of the seatbox at the rear and the metalwork of the front - I suppose you could try to address the front with spacing / offset but the rear is simply a diameter issue...... David LLAMA 4x4New Online Store

You can get 255/85x16 underneath but they will just rub on full articulation. A 1" lift will get them under better but you are quite right they will still rub on compressed suspension no matter what lift you have unless you lift the body aswell or pack the bumpstops.... What you are doing wrong is thinking properly about the job rather than just buying what is cheap in the mags this month!!!!! The one saving grace of most 2" lifts advertised is that the tyres won't rub even without the bumpstops adjusted because the horribly mis-matched springs that come with the kit will go coilbound long before the axle hits the bumpstops anyway!!!! Hope that helps answer your question.... David LLAMA 4x4 New online store......

About 5 miles out of Welshpool........ David

You're right, it was me that organised it............ What bit of the site that is not still being filled with carp is now a Sainsburys, a retail park, a factory estate and an M6 toll road !!! Good to see that there are some other old school offroaders out there though.......... David LLAMA 4x4

I don't think you are alone in feeling that way ..... A number of fellow traders spoke to me over the weekend and all are of the same thinking. There is little hope of making a realistic profit at the Shows any more. I remember when doing a couple of Shows each year paid for me and the family to go away for a fortnight. Now you actually have to put the losses made attending the shows down to advertising budget!! Too many shows that are all the same has just watered down the whole scene. Traders are now habd picking the few shows they will do rather than everyone going to them and making them worthwhile. If the shows were in any way different to each other then there might be room for all of them but they are all the same with only tens of miles betwen them and the trade / piblic are drifting away. Sorry you feel miffed ( I actually did OK with my trade stand ) but take consolation in the fact that you are not alone and the worm must surely soon turn!! David LLAMA 4x4

I think the pictures show how critical the washer and overtightening could be in the demise of a shock..... with the cup washers on like (-bush-) you can see there is no room for the bush to flex before the eye hits the washer...... With the )-bush-( set up you can clearly see how much more room there is for flex. The angle of the upper rear mount is also a problem as mentioned but as long as the bush is able to flex enough this should only wear bushes out quickly and not break the shock. The long travel kit I sell has a front type shock ( stud / stud ) fixing to get around the problem of the upper bush not being able to cope with the angles.... The lower bushes and washers are the other way around though, with the cups wrapping around the bush. What is vital with the lower bushing is not to overtighten them - just pinch them up tight enough to stop wobble but allow rotation. That should then be enough to hold the shock in place but allow full articulation of the bush. Again this is where we can take a swipe at ProComp - their studs are not shouldered to prevent overtightening and come with a non locknut fixing so that if all you do is pinch them up then the nut will vibrate loose. Nost shocks ( my Rough Country ones are of course right! ) have ashoulder on the thread and come with a nyloc nut. David LLAMA 4x4

What length are the rear shocks?? Are they +2"?? You say you have droppers fitted ( presumabbly 2" ). With all the luck of 2 dogs with 2 tails if you have extended the compressed length by that much you are going to need thicker bumpstops to keep the shock safe..... You can get away with eating a full 1" into the bumpstop LR gave you. What model LR is it by the way? If you have +2" extended shocks then you 1" safety margin has been eaten up by them so the whole 2" drop bracket will need to be compensated for as packing under the bumpstop..... I must have looked at at least 50 or 60 broken shocks ( mostly, but not entirely ProCompo ) over the last couple of years and the reasons are almost always the same: Broken off stud = over tightening of bushes Broken off ring = over compression of shock ( nealy all ) over articulating of bush / washer fitted backwards etc. ( a fair few ) If it happens once then a fault in the unit is possible. If it happens over and over again then something is breaking it........ Whilst I have joined in the criticism of ProComp to a degree that I have put everything bar the family home on the line to import a rival ( IMHO better ) brand it has to be said that ProComp make a hell of a lot of shocks for all sorts of 4x4/s and racing buggies and it does seem to be a Land Rover thing that they break! Not a common fault across the range. This must surely suggest that it is our use of them especially with current trends in suspension of trying to get as much droop as possible with less thought or effort put into what happens on the way back up! David LLAMA 4x4

The nearest to this I have on the way is a stud / stud fitting that is 26.5" extended and 15" compressed giving 11.5" travel. This measurement is taken from the base of the stud to the base of the stud. They are effectively a +5" extended length. I also have some brackets ( Gwyn's stuff ) to allow them to be used on the rear aswell getting away from the need for the top bush to flex more than it can! Realistically these are not going to be with me from the States for another 4 weeks............. David LLAMA 4x4

I've got just over 50 coming on the ship as we speak just for that application..... I air freighted some stock in for the shows that arrived just in time for Malvern and will be at Peterborough next weekend but that was only Std and +2" sets- There is another 715 units on their way but that weight needs to come by sea simply to remain viable!! Speak to you soon David LLAMA 4x4

This thread is of great interest to me as I have just invested all of my money ( and a lot more thousands that I am yet to arrange ) in importing a rival brand of shock to ProComp in from the States made specifically to suit LRs for me...... ProComp will almost certainly change it for you. The main difference with the shocks I have imported is with the mounts - a noted weak point on the ProComp shocks. Check that the shock is not bottoming... 2" drop brackets and +2" shocks is a knackered shock just waiting to occur if you have not packed the bumpstop by a good 3" - unless your choice of bright yellow / blue spring saved the day by getting horribly coilbound before the shock bottoms. Check that the bushes have not been overtightened leaving no 'wobble' in them - this will put forces on the metal of the shock that will lead to a stress / fatigue break. On my Rough Country shocks I have had a steel sleeve put through the bush to prevent overtightening. Whilst looking at the top bushings / mounts remember that those 2 little cone bushes used on a ProComp were designed in about 1953 for use on the 86" which never had or was meant to have to arc through such an angle as a modified coiler - the answer lies in ( as LR themsleves have done ) using a one piece pressed in bush of a much larger diameter. Also check that the washer you put on to the mount just before the but is placed with the dome side facing the bush not the nut! This is a very common mistake that will lead to the bushings losing most of the little angle they can cope with!! Whilst you are on heck that you have not overtightened the stud type mountings all round or they will be next to break off - change the normal nut for a nyloc so you can leave it just pinched tight on the rubbers without fear of it coming loose. Again a shouldered stud will avoid overtightening ans has been fitted to OE shocks for years..... I firmly believe ProComp are excellant value for money shocks but I think the time has come for some of their little faults to be corrected hence my importing of Rough Country shocks... David LLAMA 4x4 - UK importer of Rough Country shock absobers Rough Country home page in the States

SIMTEK do an extension kit for ECUs - just looking for their number now, I'll post it if I find it. They are the people who do all the harnesses for the Bowlers as well so their pedigree is good David LLAMA 4x4

Who is going to make it to the LRO show at Malvern next weekend??? If any of you are going please come and say hello - I am stand G8a facing onto the central arena.... David LLAMA 4x4

I have made up loads of such hoses for comp safari and rally from stainless steel braid and they are great especially if the hose you want is not a std item that you can buy off the shelf. The downside is the cost, especially seeing as the fittings into the engine ( depending on which model ) are often awkward to match to and you end up replacing these as well. Given that your existing ones have lasted that long and that exact copies are available of any LR shop I would be very tempted to put std ones back on and use them for the next 180,000 miles............. Have a look at my motorsport plumbing website for an idea of the sort oh hose and fittings I'm on about if you want. David LLAMA 4x4

The only bit that brings a little faith back in the LR world after seeing this is that at least no-one seems to have bid for it!!!! David LLAMA 4x4

You don't have to go as far as India to see this - in a small town called Espot high in the Spanish Pyrenees the entire Taxi rank is made up of LRs.... Most of them are now either 110 CSW or new Santanas but there is still a couple of old Santans in the fleet of about 15 LR cabs. They run trips into the Aiges Tortes national park in them which is now closed to any other civilian vehicle bar the taxis.... If you happen to visit the restaurant on the river bridge does about the best lunch if you want a proper sit in meal but the bar opposite does good bar meals!!!!! David LLAMA 4x4

I don't think the heat stress is anything ( obviously a little ) to do with the oil cooling that is why I said an oil cooler alone would not IMHO be sufficient - it is radiator capacity / efficiency will start to affect a TD run through a series rad. The Tdi ( esp. 200 ) runs very cool and a series rad witha seperate oil and intercooler will be fine. BUT aTD is not a Tdi! and does not run cool even in the arctic circle!!! If a modifaction to the front end is the inly way then that is better than an engine that only lasts 40k from rebuild..... David LLAMA 4x4

Whilst I am more than happy to sell you a cooler and suggest that it is possible to locate one in a position where it will be very efficient or better still I could sell you a cooler that is a oil / water transfer rather than an oil / air transfer which is far more effective and simply plumbs into the engine cooling system it has to be said I am wary of trying to cool a 2.5TD with a series radiator altogether. This engibe is notorious for running hot and would suggest you try and get a TD radiator into the car at least or better still an uprated TD rad or you will be blowing oil like the Amoco Cadiz in no time !!! David LLAMA 4x4

I do! What is wrong with the cooler in your radiator though? Have a look at LLAMA 4x4 or more specifically for the oil cooler stuff look at Llama Motorsport plumbing pages Better still phone me on 01938.850382 and I can tell you all about them................ David

Obvious ones to check: Panhard rod bushes UJ's Steering damper operation Less obvious but equally as effective at giving wobbles: front radius arm bushes ( axle end ) Silly lift kit just fitted! Tyre condition Balance weight fallen off wheel Any of the steering ball joints David LLAMA 4x4

Have a look at the 'Silicone' page of Motorsport-plumbing.co.uk David

I can make sure the price is right so that is not a worry.... Compared to the ProComp? I am not here to bemoan ProComp at all - in fact ( for the money ) I think they are a great shock. Where I feel I have been able to make some advances over them is on the mountings.. Many people say that the studs snap off ProComps and it is true, I have seen many do it -BUT it is almost entirely the fault of the person fitting them who has done the nuts up so damned tight that there is no 'squidge' left in the rubber bushes at all. The Rough Country ones however have been made to my spec so, like a genuine or OME for example, the studs on the RC are of 14mm diameter but with a 12mm thread - once the nut is done up to the shoulder you can't go any further making it impossible to overtighten the bushes. The valving is also LT specific rather than picking an existing cylinder off the shelf and welding LR ends onto it... They also come complete with boots ( some choose not to fit them ) and with poly bushes - there is no estra over the retail price to finish them off.... Hope that answers your questions David LLAMA 4x4

1. Your Dad's RR.... Put some std. RR heavy duty springs all round - about £60 from any of the big mail order people. Put some Rough Country ( I am the UK importer so I'm biased ) or Pro Comp shocks on it. Remember that if you put longer shocks on a RR the rear springs will dislocate so you will either need to spend £50 on a pair of relocation cones or Jubilee clip them in.... The whole job could be done for £200 and would give it a real boost..... 2. Your RR Replace the knackered std springs will OE replacement ones and fit a set of gas shocks ( again I reckon Rough Country are the best David LLAMA 4x4

If the bit you are on about is the bit I think you are on about then they will not give you sufficient ( if any ) lift as such. The simplest way is to put some 1" packers under your rear spring seats - I sell them in steel fabrication or solid aluminium billet type. You could always make some packers yourself if yopu are half handy with a drill / hacksaw...... David LLAMA 4x4

My spec sheet came to me as a .pdf with an email but to be fair the LR shocks are not on their spec sheet as they don'tmake them as such - they are making the LR specifically for me. The price will be £39.95 each including shock, boot and poly bushes...... David