DEANO3528

I don't entirely understand how you can have 31 inch tyres with 16" rims that are a different size to 31's with 15 inch rims as the '31' denotes the overall height. Obviously I realise the rims are an inch different and yes there would possibly be a bit of difference between virgin and retread. 265/75 x 16 = approx 31.7" overall height.

265/75x16 is basically the same as 31/10.5x16. Unless you actually meant 15" rim size which is far less rare. Camskill do a good range, they have Hankook muds for 77 quid each. I don't think I would ever buy retreads again, after wearing out a set of Colwayy AT's iin 12k miles of fairly mundane motoring!

Assuming you have VIN post DA30302241 (which it should be unless you have the older system with the plastic elbows at the top), they supersede to BTR 216 and BTR 217 Original numbers are NTC3477 and NTC 3478

If you do a search for this, it has been covered extensively.

I think we covered it over the day Rob, but for anyone else interested: 5" lift. Extreme Double Cardin prop 110 transfer box etc etc It was no good off road like that but on road he would have got away with it... ...possibly. Hence why he 'trimmed' the arches a tad

Thank you and replied to both.

FYI, I know where to get hold of 4 very slightly part worn KL71's in 33/12.5x15 similar to these at a bargain price: No wheels though. PM for details

Tee into the vacuum pump to brake servo pipe?

I like your thinking mate, but the worrying bit is the BECM isn't it? Doesn't the whole thing shut down if you look at it the wrong way? Or is that 'old wives tales'...

If OF starts a new thread at some point I can soon move the one from here and merge it.

Not a bad price for GTX I'd have thought. Please don't tell me you work for Morrisons...

Just possible it is residual water pumped into the exhaust system from before the engine was repaired.

I wonder how much different the BMW unit is to a VW/Volvo straight 6? I tried a Classic with that engine once, bolted to the ZF slushbox and it was a really nice drive and felt quite powerful. The only reason I didn't buy it was because the guy wouldn't budge on price over an oil leak from the rear crank seal.

My old ABS equipped RR used to do that but it was only the pads moving very slightly in the direction of travel each time the pedal was pressed. The click was the pads touching the pins as the 'rode up'.

I'd go for the Tdi with a bigger intercooler. Plenty of go - especially the 300 which seems to have a smoother and wider power range than the 200. My 200 runs a Brunel Performance upgrade and I can recommend Jon's prices and advice. Edited to add: My mate has a RRC with 35" KL71's, 200 Tdi and LT77. To counteract the tyre size he had fitted a 110 transfer box and with the Brunel I/c and his is quite sprightly. Although he won't do a hundred mph in it, especially with over a 5" lift!

Surprised no one has answered yet. Ok here goes: Original VM 2.4 was April '86 badged 'Turbo D' VM 2.5 superceded the smaller lump around '89 200 Tdi was introduced for '93 MY so was seen on a few K plates All these were on the manual box and it wasn't until the 300 Tdi came along in '95 that a slushbox was available on a stonecrusher. And it all went downhill from there

The switch base is held in by a tiny phillips screw which once removed allows the base to come away from the barrel. Make sure you get the switch base with the correct amount of wires as I think there are variations

Definitely solid red and solid blue. I have one in the shed I took from an old SD1

There was a guy going round the club stands at Peterborough called Roofracks Direct who did a good range.

I believe it to be just lock-up speed, although there are two different transfer box ratios: The difference is very small though..

The amount of people I see saying that! The motor is in 4th by the time you've gone through 30 mph if you are driving steady and you will be hard-pressed to notice. What you can feel is the torque convertor locking up at around the mid 50's mph. I agree that the lock up is set a bit high really. What's worse is that the lower powered 3.5 locks up at 40 which makes it a real struggle when towing sometimes. I always change manually when towing with an auto. And for the record, I prefer auto for offroading too: 1st gear in low and cadence braking for downhills is fine most times. 2 is fine on the level stuff and uphills I use 3 and let it sort it out for itself.

Most of the bushes on Shed are those old blue Ironman ones from Paddock and are years old. However as i was informed years ago, don't bother using poly's on the chassis ends of the arms as A) They don't droop as much B ) They break up in no time I therefore use rubber std ones in those positions and no major failings as a result. The disco is about to be changed to Deflex and I have no qualms abut their quality as it is a 75% road motor/tow hack Horses for courses in my opinion..

Ok guys, thanks for trying to help. I'll lock this one before it degrades into a slanging match.

I have a H plate on the drive with the electric interior mirror.

When i got the link I noticed they has Grabber AP's on there. Now when I had my pick-up I had a set of 31/10.5x15's on and they were a damn good tyre for all occasions. Well impressed with what I could do on them.