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Hello All, I have been asked to help someone source a large capacity Rover based V8 for his P38 Pickup. I suggested an LS1/LS6 conversion but no he wants it to be rover based. So far i have found 5.2 litre motors from JE and RPI and believe it or not a 6 litre from a company in wales called Wildcat engineering. It will be used for dune running here in Saudi Arabia so it must be a complete turnkey engine all built up with ancillaries and ready to bolt in and fire up. Does anybody have any experiences or information on large capacity units. At the moment we are unsure about the transmission being manual or auto! Regards Roger_______________Roger

Hi Streaky, There are 3 governing factors here which all contribute to poor fuel consumption: 1) 4.6 with uprated ECU 2) Cheap fuel in Dubai 3) Knowing your extremely heavy right foot You have absolutely no chance of getting decent fuel economy

Help, I seem to recall that there was a spring rate calculator based on vehicle weight, ride height reqd and wheelbase in one of the old threads. It gave suggested springs and manufacturers part numbers. I have searched the forum but cannot find it anymore. Could one of you guru's please either repost it or suggest where i could find it.

Another query on parts sourcing. where can i get a manifold similar or the same as the picture? i can get it from the US but thats a pain. Any ideas for a UK source?

Hi Kev , Been watching this space for some time now is there any likelihood of there being F&R winch control switches?

Hi People, I used the airbags inside the extra heavy duty OME rear springs of my expedition prepped RRC and have used them in the deserts of Saudi Arabia for several years now. i've never had any problems with them and i guess the total loaded vehicle weight to be over 3.5 tons, I've had more problems bending axle casings. In practice there are no gaps for stones to get into unless you run them un-inflated in the desert then pump them up. The anti-roll bars are highly recommended, otherwise get some roller skates and attach them to the door handles.

Hello People There have been quite a few threads regarding actuators for Carling switches printed with specific text i.e front winch In/Out etcdoes anyone actually do these, or are they just more vapourware???

As it says on the box how can i clean/restore the wrinkle finish on my RRC dashboard plastic.

I have the same problem with her indoors, and one solution i am considering is a slide in unit that fits into the hilift holes on my rock sliders/sill bars. I have a couple of old disco side steps that i will try and butcher to do the job but can be easily removed.

Hi FF, Both pumps are located on the insides of the chassis under the floor below the tank, and are effectively gravity fed. So they are definitely acting as pressure pumps. Both are original Bosch manufacture 058464070 (FP603 type) from mid 80's BMW 735's, maybe they are just old and knackered like me.

Hi JW Good to hear from you how is the leg? are you running around yet? The pumps are two old BMW 735 pumps (specs as per the FSE site) picking up from each end of the tank joining at a 'Y' piece just before the filter, one is noisier than the other so will check running just one at a time. It idles perfectly at 800rpm and picks up well from there but i cant give it a blast as the bodywork isnt fitted and its not road legal yet.

hello people, I am running twin external pumps on my Flapper type 3.5 EFI Traka, can anyone tell me if there should be any type of non return valve in the fuel feed/return lines as the fuel pressure disappears within a couple of seconds of turning the engine off? Roger

I need assistance from anyone who knows about the wiring for a 3.5 with the flapper EFI system on a 1988 RRC. I am at long last finishing the engine wiring connections on my Traka. I have reconnected all as per the diagrams and run through the EFI diagnostics in the manuals. The pumps work, & the rest Airflow meter etc all checks out but I do not get a spark and there is no 12v at the coil? I have tried a spare ECU, and the wiring is the same as a scrapper '89 RRC. If I hot wire the coil +ve side to 12v I get a spark at #1 plug. According to the diagrams the neg side of the coil is fed from pin No.1 on the ECU through the overrun relay which is activated by the ign switch via the vacuum switch. I have continuity through from the ECU and the relay and vacuum switch are fine, but there is no 12v in fact nothing at all! In a normal state of affairs what voltage should I get at the coil? There is also a small resistor connected at the coil end of the wire from the ECU. Any ideas anyone ???????????????????????????????

Tonk, I have been running a 120amp Marelli unit for the last 2-3 years with no problems at all. It will slip if the belt is not tightened regularly though.

Hi Guys, I am currently running a Marelli 120 amp unit from a serpentine Disco V8 on my 1992 RRC 3.9 and it runs OK on a single V belt as long as I keep the belt tight. Its been like that for the last 3-4 years. I've not encountered any problems as long as the belt is the right size/width so it doesn't run in the bottom of the pulleys.

Hi, What materials are you using? It looks a little on the thin side, or, am I just too used to seeing HFH's 10mm plate everywhere

Hello HFH if you want to stick with the 'in tank' pump you can use an AC Delco EP240 pump and refit in the RR/Disco housing. Much cheaper but see my own thread on my EFI pump problems You can use the Bosch p/n 0580464070 external pumps and they are about £85 + vat from FSE (fuelsystem.co.uk), and they use 8mm & 12mm pipe fittings I have a couple of used BMW ones on my Traka.

Hi JW This seems to be a hot problem as if i leave the motor to cool down (yeah that happens really quick here!) it will restart no problem. i.e. when i went back to last night at 11.30 it started on the 2nd turn of the key, and this morning it started immediately. When i checked last night the stepper motor was only finger tight and after i tightened it it started ok. I cant get to Al Hair at least until this weekend, but i have a pressure regulator arriving tomorrow. When you coming back to the ME??

I've got a uk companies web site on my pc at work I'll check it out and let you know the url tomorrow. I've fitted twin Bosch units from a BMW to my 3.5 efi Traka but i can't get you have the info until I get to my office. Popular ones seem to be ex Vauxhall cavalier SRI, they are Bosch hose to hose units rather than the ones with banjo or filter fittings. Here the Bosch main stealer wants almost £200 each for them new though.

well the bl?'**dy thing has stopped yet again the pump is running for the prescribed 3 seconds and then cuts out but it still won't start. I cant find any place to attach a pressure gauge unless I cut into the fuel rail and solder a fitting. Any more suggestions would be welcome.

Calling all you EFI experts (not Mega anything) I have a 1992 RRC 3.9 efi auto and it is currently eating in-tank EFI pumps at the rate of one every 3 weeks!!! The symptoms are that it starts hesitating when applying throttle, and it progresses to the state where if you apply the accelerator it just dies. It will restart some times after switching the ignition on/off several times but not always. When it is running it pulls well and will accelerate very well at the traffic light grand prix. If I fit a new pump it works fine for a while but then it just starts again. I have been fitting Delco EP240 units at £25 rather than the complete gauge/pump housing at £110. Where should I start looking? How about a box of matches and an insurance claim???????????????????

The ultimate solution that I found is the reinforced axle casings from Tomcat. I severely bent both axle casings on my expedition truck and no amount of welding could seal the diff pans. So I got Paul at Tomcat to make up two casings complete with internal and external reinforcements, the internal is CDS tubes welded inside. But, the external involves new thicker diff pans and, some serious bracing which gives you a slider to the front of the front axle and to the rear of the rear axle, however you will still need something like the D4x4 brace for the steering tube. I also got my front axle cut & shut for castor correction on a 4" lift at the same time. The total cost was 425 for the front and 275 for the rear, including the supply of two axle casings. A perfect result but it did cost 350 quid to ship them to me.

HFH & Co there is a product available from Redline and they call it "Water Wetter" it is reputed to act as an anti corrosion agent and most importantly to lower the engine temperature by 10 to 15 degrees C. I beleive that you can get it from Merlin Motorsport. Roger

Any body got any feedback on LR Diagnostic systems, such as Rovacom, Autologic, Lucas, or any others. It has to cover ALL models right up to and including 2006 and the future. Our local thieves (aka LR distrubutor) are so helpful. They charge for telling you what the problem is but will only clear errors or reset suspension heights etc, if the repairs are done by them!! Any help or suggestions gratefully received. Roger,

anybody got any views on the Isuzu 3.0TD there are lots of them here in Riyadh