discomikey

i actually want to paint every car i see with them on bright orange and weld the doors shut! they are the best looking wheels ever IMO!!! haha very off topic, but if anyone likes chargers, or indeed roadkill.

yes. although with the remainder of this thread to make it much easier for anyone to follow i will try and do things in a better fashion, and maybe even write the posts whilst i do it. great thing is skydrive not having to plug in your camera, its just there instantly ready to add to the post.

in our hay SHED.... we still have 2 bays worth of hay from last years crop. and we dont apply fert because we just end up with 6 billion silage bales we dont use too haha #(notthatilikehashtagsonebitinfactithinktheyrestupid)superyield!

i will post a pic of it on friday when i get back to the farm, just to make you jelous, also because its something from a company i have been enthusiastic yet unsure about for a while, because i have never actually seen one in the flesh i thought this would be a good way to test the water with the company and their tool storage. so will be offering a review of the cart. true, true. stupidly enough i have a workshop laptop with rave on in the workshop and internet access, although i was at the time using it for a facebuk convo with the missus,ask me, whats the point?

i thought "barns" were an american thing anyway? we only have sheds on our farm!

I removed the air con pump to save degassing, and wish i had thought about the harness before but hey ho, i removed the bumper more as a matter of leaning over it all the time, its not hard to do and it stops the chance of you or tools scratching it whilst leanin over. with regards to rebuilding the engine, the owner wanted a new engine fitting, but with a warranty. any engines i can find with a warranty are 1200 + so i said i would investigate and see if it might be worth rebuilding. if it were mine, i would just pick a low mileage ebay special up for £300-£400 and have done with it, but that can be a gamble, and its not my gamble to take on this one. At least with a rebuild, i know the engine is in good condition, and to be honest, if i were to get a cheaper engine off eblag, i would probably strip it to a certain extent anyway to check its a goodun, and not about to do the same as this one did. at £8 a journal for a regrind and around £120 for a set of shells, the top end shouldnt need touching, and the rest will just need a check over. consumables and any parts it may need once i dig into it, should wind me up at about the same cost as a eblag engine anyway according to my calculations, but i know it is then good. i have rebuilt plenty of engines before so not afraid, or intimidated by it. im not charging a lot for labour and i have said i would actually cap it at a certain cost, as its more of a favour than anything else. I think i made it harder than it needs to be, looking at RAVE afterwards, it seems oh so simple we certainly do, is yours way too small aswell? i have just splashed out on a special service cart with 2 extra draws so i dont wind up carrying tools and parts bit by bit around the workshop, and somewhere to store the more commonly used tools. i really want a 42" set though!

dont shoot me for trying to teach gran to suck eggs, but does the engine turn over okay? is it trying to fire? have you got any noid lights? have you had chance to run any electrical diagnostic checks on various sensors, i.e. crank sensor cam? sensor?

finally, once supported, remove engine mounts and press the button on your ramp and the vehicle will go up effortlessly, stop every inch or so and check, once you are clear, get a pallet truck and move the pallet out the way. alternatively, attach engine hoist/loader tractor/gantree to front bumper, lift the freelander, remove axle stands, lower as far as possible, support engine on a board with wheels, undo engine mounts and lift as high as possible, it can be done, thats how it was reccomended to me. engine dissassembly to come hopefully will make a start on friday

using a pry bar against a suitably strong part of the aluminium IRD/gearbox casting, take a few fast "prys" at the driveshaft and it will pop out, wrecking your thumbnail for the 3rd time in as many months! This next part is where i went wrong, i will document it anyway for benefit of others. remove all electrical connectors on the engine, some of which are incredibly hard to get to, and then thread the harness back trhough all the hose and pipework left on the engine. or, open up the junction box behind the battery, and simply disconnect the harness that end leaving with the engine saving an hour or 2 of swearing! remove the starter feed, and REMEMBER TO UNBOLT THE EARTH FROM THE GEARBOX..... its ALWAYS the earth that i forget...? remove the 2 plugs going to the auto box, they are twist and pull to disconnect. back under the vehicle, release tension on the aux belt and remove the air con pump bolts. these will be corroded, because of the ali castings, and can be easily snapped so go steady. carefully dangle the air con pump by its hoses. be sure you dont knock it upon removal of the engine. remove the pipes to the PAS pump, i used some brake pipe clamp type things to stop loss of fluid. leave attached to reservoir and prop hose ends above level of reservoir, blank ends of hoses and pump ports now. i THINK... i have not missed anything out. support the engine somehow (i used a pallet and 2 tyres which is the HSE approved method according to LOLER and HASAWA) honest...

fuel pipe removal, remove the clips from the injector return ports pull off the return line from the injectors, and undo the jubillee clips on the fuel pump ports, remove the hard lines (undoing 2 bolts) and fit the correct plugs (or some M8 bolts will do... ) next we move onto the wheelarch. using prybar to stop hub spinning, and breaker bar undo hub nut when you have bent prybar, source some adequate box section, still fail to undo it use bit of extra pipe to extend breaker bar, watch while it bends like a banana then look away incase it breaks... the nut will now slowly break loose using COPPER hammer hit the shaft with a hammer to break free the rust seal which normally siezes the splines. i was lucky and both were free. undo lower ball joint nut (21mm head) hit with hammer to break taper (not on threads obvously) and lever wishbone away from hub i used box section and g clamp using my most favorite and awesom extra long ring spanner, (and 17mm open end on the flats the other side of the joint) break the ARB bolts loose. disconnect links. once this is complete crawl underneath on the dirty floor and struggle to undo the engine support link and the 6x subframe retaining bolts. subsequently get squashed by said subframe as the last bolt comes out and put a banadage on your head... or if you have a ramp, "simply remove the subframe whilst comfortably standing underneath the vehicle " (sorry no pics of this bit)

i have a bit of a muddle of hoses here which without remembering exactly (i did this one frinday night and finished at like 3am) probably arent in the best order, sorry removing a part of the complex top hose assembly, pull up the clip and just pull back, this is quite tight and requires wigglage more coolant hoses to be removed the 3 in the center section of the image pull this vacuum pipe off and tuck out the way for now The fuel hoses were disconnected next at the point of this valve type thing. just simple quick connects squeeze the blue bits and pull. further fuel pipe to disconnect here on the "chassis leg" under the terminal box bolt removed (8mm head) and the fuel sensor needs to come off with the fuel pipes. at this point its neccessary to remove the inlet manifold, to get at the fuel pipes, starter feed and other bits and bobs take note of the position of the engine cover screw bracket, and undo all 13 fasteners, the long bolt goes in the bottom front (nearest the crank pulley) hole. undo the special jubilee clip and disconnect EGR pipe manifold will now come free ...

Hi all, Been let loose on a FL TD4 (55 plate) which went boom, recovery mechaninc has told the owner its the cam chain, although as the engine turns over (by hand), i was reluctant to believe that and according to the owner it actually started up after it stopped. The crank turns over but feels a bit icky, pulling the sump revealed steel shards in the bottom, pointing to bottom end bearings. so out the engine comes. after fetching from oop norf heres wot i found in the sump first off, i pulled the engine covers and the battery whilst draining engine, gearbox (jatco 5speed) oils and coolant next step was the intercooler hoses so i could get in and see what i was doing. onto the vast array of hoses pipes and wiring... it looks daunting, but really, its not... at least if you know the special trick... jack up the vehicle, remove the front wheels wheels and grovel on the floor with a screwdriver, and unscrew the inner arch and front "foglight area bottom covers" from the front bumper. it really pays to use a pick to clean the dirt out the screw head and use plenty of pressure to avoid slippage here! peel back inner liner, and undo the 2 bolts (8mm head) which hold the bumper and wing together (sorry no pic here) should be fairly obvious which ones. remove the fog light plugs whilst you are in there and then repeat for the other side. Remove the 3 plastic rivet type clips underneath the number plate area, and remove the bumper. Once the bumper is off you can access the front fasteners for the under tray. these will be tight and corroded due to the mix of steel and ali. this is quite cumbersome so watch it doesent drop on your head when you remove. (sorry again no pics here) there are another 4? bolts at the back end which mount to the subframe. do youself a favour and before you get any firther buy a set of "remote hose clip pliers" the amount of these clips they will certainly pay for themselves. remove this hose clip and pull the hose off, place to one side. remove many many coolant hoses which connect the engine to the various components. i started with the heater matrix outlets on the bulkhead. i disconnected them at the "T" pieces too, (marking which one is which) and folded them up out of the way. I then removed the top and bottom hose setup which is quite intricate, removing the autobox oil cooler at the same time, however there was a lot of ali-steel corrosion which knackered the threads on the cooler, i would suggest removing the cooler pipes from the transmission rather than the cooler for this reason. this cooler is held on by 2 bellhousing bolts, i loosely replace all fasteners on a job like this after removal where possible. (see pic below) coolant rail to expansion tank hose disconnected next (view from underneath here) vacuum tank for the turbo was then unbolted from the coolant pipe ...

you can get them from uk suppliers obviously with much cheaper shipping costs, i was just on a short lunch at work and did a quick google search

they are, theyre magnetical so they catch the collets, and then on refitting they do some magic stuff which blows my mind and fits them in correctly every time!

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-36200-Keeper-Remover-Installer/dp/B000P0ZJIS one of those is what you want. great bit of kit for use on bench or on engine! i made an adaptor out of an old spark plug for the airline when i had to do a set of seals.

average air consumption 5cfm, most compressors will easily do that, max air consumption @load is 24cfm. The figures on the clarke gun i have are similar, except with 1/3 if not less of the max torque. as a result you are hammering for longer and use much more air than the IR gun which will instantly whiz it off most of the time without kicking the compressor in. 90% of the time you are either doing wheelnuts, or that one stubborn bolt.

Cheers chaps I knew it would be wheel orntyre hoping it wasn't tyre lol thank god

That's what uni car park is for

was the wheel, somehow overnight it has been bent, no scuffs on the truck really confusing. all sorted now as i had a spare modular, back on the road

go for ingersoll rand, by far the best i highly reccomend the 2135TImax, where it is expensive, it is 50x better than my machine mart gun and uses less air so less compressor noise too

alignment is fine, plus that wouldnt change overnight haha. and again, how would a swivel loosen up oernight? obvoiusly these are thing i will check as a matter of course when i get to the workshop tomorrow, but its still a mystery as far as i can see.

nope, the instant you move the steering wheel the wheels also move, no play whatsoever.. "What? on a series? you must be wrong!?!?"

would be CV's if i had got my orse into gear and put some shafts in the front. there is no front prop, shafts or CV's at the moment so pretty safe to assume its not driveline. it does really feel like tyres. although its intermittant and it happens at different speeds. you can power through it and it feels fine then but its always between 25-40, undulations in the road seem to provoke it if it isnt already happening and the wheelbearings arent loose, neither is the swivel from what i can tell. like i said i really went for it with the wheels on the ground notmally you can tell like that at least if theres some play although cant pinpoint it to either wheelbearing or swivel. not hit any potholes its not a vibration its more of an "oscillation" you can definately feel its the front drivers side. ive just been under it and checked all the bolts, which are all tight, wheelnuts are tight, ive rolled the truck along whilst feeling the tyres all individually, none of them seem out of round at all, no bulges in the sidewalls or anything like that. just plain wierd! anyone in COV with a 335/85 or 7.50 tyre (and jack and 27mm socket) that i could borrow for 15 mins to see if it is the tyre? what are the chances that a tyre that is so relatively new and a quality brand that can go wrong, and why, if it is the tyre, is it not constant but direcrtly related to road speed? surely if a tyre is egg shaped it would be egg shaped at 1mph and 100mph, not just 30-40???

can you not stick it on a weighbridge for the unladen weight?

got in my truck for the short commute to work today and noticed that whenever i get upto about 30mph i have steering wobble. badly. not as if its out of balance, more like it is not round anymore, but egg shaped. anything below 30 is fine. and it certainly wasnt doing that when i parked it up last night. theres only 2 causes i can think that could have kicked it off. the tyre has suddenly overnight either got a flat spot or a bubble type thing, (unlikely, theyre 1.5-2yr old Goodyear Wranglers) or someone has been ever so kind as to have hit my truck last night and buggered off. (which i doubt as there are no marks) i tried to watch the front wheel whilst driving(feels to me like front drivers side) but cant see anything wrong, and checked for wheelbearing and swivel play and all is fine there so it really is a mystery. I havent jacked it up but im 90% sure theres no play as i really went for it rocking the tyres. dont have a spare tyre to test wether its the tyre either (i know what a tool!) any thoughts?