discomikey

ditto, we usually just use the bluetooth (ours is base spec GS too) there is a jack in the glovebox?? aswell (on the 14 plate model) on our old 11 plate it was in the rear of the center console under a flip cover (you will see it if you get in the back) would be surprised if you dont already have one

can do service scheduled checkpoints too if you need haha

my bad...

howsat? def110 (1).pdf

doh... silly me, i have a fairly comprehensive set of all kinds of info inc tightening torques fluid specs and capacities, just trying to put it into a format to upload

dont know what blue youre using then ours dries pretty much instantly and stays on the bench pretty well haha

what year defender and what engine?

buy them... they are great tyres

The reverse gear on some models, can wear quite badly in the "fork recieving" bit and also the shaft the idler sits on can be badly worn. my box pops out of 2nd on overrun, i know its the synchro, as i had the box apart to replace the layshaft, and in a massive rush refitted the old synchro again.... leaving the new one on the bench. (only realising after test drive) i havent had time to take it apart again since. what i might do is rebuild another box that i have and ensure its all perfect, and then fit it when ready. being as my engines just gone poof (possibly the head, but knowing my luck its the bottom end its running on all 4 but making a very bad chuff/knock/tick noise which doesent sound like its coming from the head and shakes like its running on one cylinder ) ... ill probably pull them both out, i have wanted to do a "front end rebuild" anyway for a while.

cover the top in a light (ish) coat of engineers blue too, means it keeps surface rust away and you can still gfet a good earth through it, and the spatter doesent stick! not exactly expensive either

if you can afford the privelage, a steel top to your workbench(even if just a 2-3mm sheet over your wood top) will make fabrication work so much quicker. just using the table as the earth is one of those "dont know how i coped before" type things.

you should see the oomph when it is there, and boosting at over double manufacturers spec. yeah i think no intercooler on mine would be a bad idea haha...

all i know is that was one of the main differences between the TDi series and the older 19j engine. along with oil jets and revised pistons etc. the 19j engines saw a lot of cracked and melted pistons and i have also seen melted pistons in a 200tdi. not that im trying to put you off not fitting one but it wasnt that much effort to fit one in my series with a 200

ahhh just spotted the Auto part of the post. there is an inhibitor switch on the gearbox. it would be a good idea to ensure thats closing the circuit when put into park and/or neutral.

get a multimeter and unplug the small spade connector on the solenoid and check that battery voltage is present when the key it turned to the crank position. also do a continuity test to ensure that its not shorting to earth

when i did my disk conversion i had my brakes tested (MOT and then Re Test) before and after. i cant remember the exact figures, although they are in my disk brake thread. but a set of standard 88" drums all fully adjusted were roughly 5-10%??? more efficient than the set of standard defender front disks that replaced them (on greenstuff pads which i think dont work so well on a light vehicle, next time im going back to mintex or apec) so a decent set of drums is definately as good as a set of disks (designed for similar vehicle weights and constructions 90 vs. 88) however like mentioned above, its the getting under it and adjusting the drums every 5 minutes that really gets annoying!

have always wanted to run a single longitudinal beam the length of my workshop, to work in conjunction with the ramp it would make life so nice. (being a 4 poster i cant really use an engine hoist with it)

a visual check of the loom and relay board would be a good start. if it all looks fine it most likely is. most common cause for the starter to not kick in would be a sticky solenoid which is easy to sort so fingers crossed. i dont want to say the man didnt know what he was on about, but a lot of my experience with recovery companies has been a mis-diagnosis and generally for the worse.

ill second copper grease!

yeah, you have to be a supporter in order to like. by the looks of it the terrafirma arms seem to be designed with function in mind more than the QT ones. which to me seem to have been designed to look pretty, and the DE obviously had a fetish for speed holes. because its a proven fact that each speed hole produces an extra 2BHP now for the sad bit. 17 holes per arm on the QT arms, plus the laser cut logo which adds 5 extra BHP, a total of 90BHP increase over standard. where the terrafirma arms only have 6 holes each, equating to a more respectable 30BHP increase. maybe the extra 60BHP is also a contributing factor in their failiure.... i would still like to see a tiny bit more beef around the bush holes though on the terrafirma ones!

when was the last time you checked the oil level? maybe the pump got weaker and weaker and obviously couldnt keep up with the high rpm workout. i suppose you asked her wether the oil pressure light came on? did she reply what light?

Yeah that's oil in the coolant. Most likely the cause of the rough running too. Put it down to a headgasket like above. Its a shame when someone really tries to do something like that for you but it unfortunately sometimes just isn't worth it.

There is a camber (top out) on all series axles its not a lot but its there

check some measurements on the axle itself, between the end flange and spring saddle on each side should be equidistant. also check the spring hangers are on correctly, as in the image below the shackle with the boss on should be on the inside face of the chassis. check this is correct and they are not both one way or the other. also would be worth trying to see if the front dumb irons have been replaced. does the bumper fit correctly? does it look like you have 2 left front dumb irons or 2 right front dumb irons? (the spring eyes are offset)

no worries. might be worth keeping an eye on the hub temps for the near future, sounds like the wheel cylinder might be siezing. do you have one of those jack russel winding up tools? sorry i mean lazer pointer temperature thingymabobbies