discomikey

to be quite honest CW, i was blatantly chatting utter codswallop there, and you are correct. have you got a fork i can use for this pie?

would be interested to understand what happens at crawling speed? also do you have a fan? an EGT gauge would be useful too to tranlate the actual manifold inlet temp to exhaust temp? top work, im glad someone has got round to doing the test, as i would love to but dont have the time or the equipment (well work wouldnt allow me to use it for my own project anyway) Do those readouts datalog too? some graphage would be ace!

mines a daily driver too forgot to add

look at my post i spoke about both

the best is to have a boost pressure guage at the turbo and at the manifold. and an EGT guage before and after the turbo. or is that just sad?

wouldnt trust Klaus to park anything with a forklift!

the 235/80(or85)R16 on offset rims with a metro steering wheel (13") is what i run on an 88" i dont have any problems steering, yeah its a bit of a work out but thats half the fun right?

the pump will sense actual inlet manifold pressure rather than turbo pressure. this should in theory give it a bit more oomph and responsiveness but also a little more black smoke (which is obviously awesome anyway) if you plumb the wastegate into there too the turbo will become slightly more responsive and will boost slightly harder too. this is all due to the pressure drop between the turbo and the inlet manifold

late 88 and 4 cylinder 109 brake parts: 6 cylinder and stage 1 v8 brake parts: assuming your 109 is of the 4cyl flavour, then Gazzar is correct. but i thought you might like the diagrams for future brake parts reference.

will fire up the oil burning workshop laptop later if you can hold on till then

you can get exhaust heat wraps and "blankets" which could be ideal as they take up minimal space

its purpose is not to directly cool the engine, but it does have an effect over the EGT's and therefore in turn over the temperature of the engine itself.

same here mine is intercooled, however does a LOT of hard pulling, and high road speeds,even getting "a little on the hot side" has never been an issue!

FF you are bang on the money, i have been fortunate enough to work with a proper old school welder fabricator, who knows more than any book will ever tell you. in the 12 months (3-4 months on and off) i have worked with him i have learned more than i have ever learned at uni or through my own projects etc. he seems to be able to teach without you even realise your being taught. My fabrication work went from okay (welder in the right conditions i would be fine) to being able to lay a really nice looking weld upside down, and the rest. its all about learning how to measure properly and use patience. I can now confidently measure up a widget in dead space, and go away, fabricate a bracket and know that it will fit first time, perfectly. whereas before i had to drill 0.5-1mm oversize holes to make sure it will fit. that is no linger an issue. if i want to pick up on 2 m8 bolts, i will drill them out with an 8.0 clearance bit and i can be confident it will fit. the right tools does help, but IMO only really speeds up the path to the same quality end result!

i was sure it mentioned that, because it mentioned even 1/4 turn making large EGT changes. but anyway IMO thats the one you touch last anyway.

is that because you cant see the ones that arent? haha!

you can change the pre boost fuelling, the on boost fuelling and the full range fuelling on these pumps its relatively easy, only ensure to mark out the positions of everything and count turns etc. most importantly only play with one setting at once. this means that if you have made a mess of things you can still revert back to what it is now. theres a guide here.. http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Tuning_Land_Rover_Tdi_engines_Rev_2.pdf

we data log all this at work, although i wouldnt be aloud to tell you the results, on the engines we use an intercooler does reduce EGT's, coolant temp and general engine temp, we dont do "power" tests although we do do "static" pull tests. never tested one like for like with/without an intercooler though for comparison.

are we talking about the same manufacturer here? i think that one of LR's design constraints is that it has to leak!

today i just remembered why i put a 200TDi into mine. god it puts a smile on my face! not sure it would be the same without an intercooler

wish my head was that clean!!

a good and cheaper alternative to NO2 is LPG injection on a diesel. it acts as a catalyst to burn the airfuel mixture with up to a 95% efficiency, burms so clean and reports suggest a 30-40+% increase in BHP. produces a cooler burn too IIRC. the only issue is that generally speaking engines cant handle the LPG at tickover or fast tickover so there needs to be a rpm related microcontroller, otherwise "starfire" occurs where the piston burns through! the actual LPG introduced is only a very small percentage in comparison to the amount of diesel injected too, too much and things go bang very fast. very risky if set up wrong but so good for both power and economy

We do a LOT of cooling runs measuring hundreds of different temperatures with any new projects. A lot of attention is drawn towards the efficiency of the charge air cooler, and whether it meets the engine suppliers designed specifications. The amount of testing done by us in that respect is relatively little (time wise) than that of say JLR's E&D department so i would imagine (because cost IS everything) there is a need for it on these engines, if they could have got away without an intercooler on a 90 200tdi I'm positive they would have. although they are designed to cope with a large range of situations, and like you say, the efficiency (as a heat exchanger) at low speeds could be questionable but also there.is a fairly.large element of heatsoak, Ali is good for drawing heat away, and the thickish cast "tanks?" on the standard intercooler would be reasonably good at doing that

http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Manuals/Land_Rover_Defender_Water_Ingress_Manual.pdf

the rivets from the top of the roof that hold it to the drip rail can work loose (mine have as there is NO way all that water is just condensation!) best thing to do is find the loose rivets, replace them, and then try and seal it up from the inside. i think there is actually a "water ingress manual" somewhere on the www