will4x4

just did mine and could not get it out... it has to go down (the cup is inside and only has a tiny overlap you can barely feel it.. before you try to press it out with a clamp clean it out with a screwdriver so the lip is clean... in the end i could not get mind out and just replaced everything else and greased it up.... seems fine so far touch wood

i had the same problem challenger 4x4 and keith gott both had two part numbers for the same seal. But the one i bought first was too loose - typical

hi milemarker i did actually try that and thought i was being quite clever. prob is while its on its really difficult. if i took the arm off i reckon it would be easy. seems ok leaving the old on there and just changing everything else - makes it an easy job

I think I have done most of them by now. Thanks again

Thanks guys I decided to leave the sleeve in place and just fit a new ball joint and lower sleeve, if that makes sense. Seems ok now its all back fitted,I shoved loads of grease in. Thanks again PS What a poo of a job!

Hi mean the tapered insert . Am outside now really stuggerling with it .... Any suggestions would be great. I'm not even going to attempt taking the arm off as that's meant to be worse. Cheers

I have read Les Hensons how to replace the ball joint in situ and cant for the life of me get the cap out using the big g clamp... i am based in farnham surrey..... anyone have any other bright ideas? i need to get this out and done today? cheers Will

got the same on mine its almost always prop UJ's worse case could be back lash in diff

so frustrating sorry to hear about this..

Sounds great - don't want to dishearten you but its illegal to take your shotgun out its cabinate for that length of time anyway.

my 2 pence worth - its funny i have done 5 challenge events now in the howling wolf with my 8274 with a standard motor and have found it up to the job. winching every punch thats quite a bit of work. the motor is going to be changed for an XP copy which i have on another landrover though as it is starting to show signs of wear now. suppose it comes down to how fast you want to get there and how much you want to thrash it. Seems most breakages to the 8274 is snatching the mainshaft which to a degree is avoidable in most situations. of course money no option id have this exact set up as nick says : saley hydraulic front and rear with an gp83 in the centre just in case you roll or the engine stops for some reason. cheers

if you insure it for £4999 i bet that knocks 60-70% off the price - i know its not its value but you might save in the long run

hi john do you have a picture i dont understand. what end is noe on your track rod then? oh are these buches any good for radius arms? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Polybush-Front-Radius-Arms-Axle-Blue-Bush-Kit-/180513514443?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a0771a3cb i dont want them falling apart after 10k odd miles and challenge events i do as i need reliability. i would go with standard ones but cant press them in myself thanks in advance

thanks i went onto there website but cant find it how much are they delivered for 4? thanks

thats great thanks just had a read looks an ok job am going to go with super pro bushes for the radius arms as have been told there pretty good. cheers

Hi, just noticed my drop arm ball joint has gone and the front radius arm bushes have to making the steering interesting. I have been doing some reading and it seems the front arms are easy to take off and change the bushes - just burn / drill them out and press the new ones in with a vice but any idea which bush to go for? Also how do you change this ball joint? i have read its really difficult to take it off the steering pump so am going to try and do it in situ is this possible? thank in advance just want to know if i should attempt it myself really... cheers Will anyone have any for sale ?

great what time?

i have been running veg for about 2 years on my 300tdi - never had any probs except once when it was 100% mix it sounded like the engine was going to tap its self to pieces.... added £20 worth of disel and suddenly went ok again. i always run a 50/50 mix (at a guess) now and add a tiny amount of petrol in the winter. (only beacuse i have 40L's of mixed fuel when my dad filled his diesel up with petrol) cheers

yeah its close enough my hardtop now sandwiches the roof just made some little holes for the bolts to go through.

yeah might be worth it then, who would do that sort of thing, who did you approach? thanks

Hi I have an old 90 axle 24 spline but it's got a lot of surface rust inside and out as the diff has not been on. What is the best way to rub this back, as its easy to do the outer casing with a grinder but not sure how to get down the axle tubes? I don't really want to go down the route of paying someone to sand blast it. Thanks in advance will

the bodge sounds better i can imagine how you do but cant find the link do you have it? thanks ill go buy a seal then

Great build looks excellent

Hi i changed my king pins and forgot to the swival housing seal..... very annoying. its now got worse and is leaking quite a bit. as a quick change is it possible to pull the cv / shaft out and then undo the bolts around the axle caseing and put the seal on from behind? I think it will work in theory just dont really want to do a complete strip down again..? thanks Will

p38rr lots of mud guards were lost as the day went on .... i know we lost 2